Swinging for Divorce…

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I'm a bit confused...

The factory does not seem to have the backup plates that clamp the housing to the quarter.

It also looks like the tabs could be bent to fit into the correct positions.



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Ok so this picture helps me understand what others have been saying, I’ve never seen it from this angle.

From this view it seems The studs are not supposed to go through a hole, only 1/2 the stud is covered by the tab and then the nuts just kind of hold it all tight together.

Should I not be worried about it rattling out?

I was thinking when the book mentions the bracket being welded on to the car it was literally this bracket. And with this bracket the stud goes through the hole.

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I was thinking when the book mentions the bracket being welded on to the car it was literally this bracket. And with this bracket the stud goes through the hole
That sounds like a better thought process than I was thinking.

Is there any signs of spot welds on the backing plate?

The photo I posted was from a video from AMD replacing a rusted 69 quarter. It's not super clear but I did not see a backing plate. But who knows.

The 2 tabs dont seem substantial to retain the reflector cup all by themselves.

I just saw 3 references for the markets and it says A & B body front and rear except Dart.

The cup is like what you have and the backer is like you have too.

So odd
 
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Here's some info from the parts book, pages 8- 28 & 29

Parts book shows j nuts on the metal tabs on the quarter. The bezel screwed to the j nuts, and the reflector screwed to the bezel


Front 69 all platforms side marker
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Rear 69 DART and station wagon specific Side marker
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Rear 69 all cars EXCEPT Dart and station wagon Side marker
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More plot thickening....

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Ok so this picture helps me understand what others have been saying, I’ve never seen it from this angle.

From this view it seems The studs are not supposed to go through a hole, only 1/2 the stud is covered by the tab and then the nuts just kind of hold it all tight together.

Should I not be worried about it rattling out?

I was thinking when the book mentions the bracket being welded on to the car it was literally this bracket. And with this bracket the stud goes through the hole.

View attachment 1716379703

View attachment 1716379704
Been awhile sense I restored my 69n Dart, but I don't recall those tabs you are showing. The backing plate yes, that was positioned on the body panel and secured by two acorn nuts. I have a red(R4) body color with a black stripe over the rear. I painted these side markers black, to match the stripe. These were installed after the car was painted and after the stripe was added.
 
Been awhile sense I restored my 69n Dart, but I don't recall those tabs you are showing. The backing plate yes, that was positioned on the body panel and secured by two acorn nuts. I have a red(R4) body color with a black stripe over the rear. I painted these side markers black, to match the stripe. These were installed after the car was painted and after the stripe was added.

Yeah I feel like I have seen them both stripe color and painted same color as the body. Maybe I’ll have to do one set of each, body color and black.
 
This popped up somewhat close to me, debating it.


Tanks Inc EFI fuel tank for a 67-76 Mopar A body. Hyperfuel part # 40107 340LPH /90GPM flex fuel in tank pump, and sending unit.

$500 obo

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Oooof, 500.00 seems steep. Especially if you don't need it. This coming from the guy with 60 totes of car parts in the basement.
 
you could mount a pressure regulator to suit the carb and if you go efi later you're set up ready.
neil.

I don’t know if I want EFI but I know I want to stroke this 400 before the car is on the road and I want to make sure the engine gets enough gas to run nicely.
 
Painter couldn’t make it over this week, said he has some things come up. Said we can plan for next week, hopefully it won’t be paint and bodywork jail if I use him. He does good work though, and his shop is close to my house.

I did get some proper rear quarter reflector bezels, they won’t be here for a bit, got them from a member on here and he is currently out of town and can’t ship them for a few weeks. No biggie.

I also was able to score this for $400 thanks to @72Dart6pack. It popped up close to him on Facebook Marketplace and I bought it, he picked it up and will be shipping it to me. His words “It's gorgeous. I'd bolt it in just like this. It's already restored.” If it is in perfect shape I won’t have to buy new top plates for a console, and top plates alone cost $700 so I’ll come out ahead not including time. The only issue I see with it is the ash tray, which I have one and they probably aren’t to hard to find a clean one.

I trust his judgment with quality as he did a pretty good job with his car.

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I don’t know if I want EFI but I know I want to stroke this 400 before the car is on the road and I want to make sure the engine gets enough gas to run nicely.
probably a good idea to fit bigger tank to motor fuel line while you're at this stage then too. i've used 10mm/3/8" micro bore copper central heating pipe from the local diy store on a few cars, cheap for a roll compared to automotive fuel line and easy to add nice bends. keep the stock line as a return..... just in case of efi, lol.
neil.
 
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