j par
Well-hung Member
Well on word for those who want to give this a possible try...
Here's a couple technical things that I ran into:
First to trim the all thread (and I haven't yet) you can take the cap off the back of the adjuster and run it through the adjuster until you get everything set. Pretty much like you see it in the pictures. Once everything is set and you figured out the amount you're going to cut off go ahead and cut off from the other end that connects into the Tamer itself. Reason being is because that last half of the all thread has a Groove that runs along it that works along with the bearings that's around the rod to fall into it so you can feel the clicks every half click when you turn the knob. Eventually the outer knob needs to be locked on or Loctited on to the rod and turn the rod itself. It's like my rear shocks were you turn the center and it adjusts them harder or softer depending but how many turns. This confused me at first because when I connected the two together I had turned the rod and made it really stiff and I wasn't sure if I broke something, but this is exactly how it's supposed to work. I guess really the first first thing I would do when I got it if I did it again would be to not only take the knob off and pop that back out of it so the all thread can go all the way through it but go ahead and spin the little Jam nut (provided) on in front of it. The idea is to use the jam nut on the outer knob until everything is set and you can just Loctite the outer knob on or just leave the jam nut. Trim to length just under the cap and put the cap back on.
I push the little bracket that hooks on the pedal shaft up as far as I could. It allowed the smallest travel and still be within the Tamers 3 and 1/2 inch throw. I unhooked the clutch bar from the pedal so it would swing freely. I push the pedal to the floor and pulled the tamer bracket about a half inch past where I have it attached to the dash. That allows me to know I have an extra half inch of travel leftover....
Here's a couple technical things that I ran into:
First to trim the all thread (and I haven't yet) you can take the cap off the back of the adjuster and run it through the adjuster until you get everything set. Pretty much like you see it in the pictures. Once everything is set and you figured out the amount you're going to cut off go ahead and cut off from the other end that connects into the Tamer itself. Reason being is because that last half of the all thread has a Groove that runs along it that works along with the bearings that's around the rod to fall into it so you can feel the clicks every half click when you turn the knob. Eventually the outer knob needs to be locked on or Loctited on to the rod and turn the rod itself. It's like my rear shocks were you turn the center and it adjusts them harder or softer depending but how many turns. This confused me at first because when I connected the two together I had turned the rod and made it really stiff and I wasn't sure if I broke something, but this is exactly how it's supposed to work. I guess really the first first thing I would do when I got it if I did it again would be to not only take the knob off and pop that back out of it so the all thread can go all the way through it but go ahead and spin the little Jam nut (provided) on in front of it. The idea is to use the jam nut on the outer knob until everything is set and you can just Loctite the outer knob on or just leave the jam nut. Trim to length just under the cap and put the cap back on.
I push the little bracket that hooks on the pedal shaft up as far as I could. It allowed the smallest travel and still be within the Tamers 3 and 1/2 inch throw. I unhooked the clutch bar from the pedal so it would swing freely. I push the pedal to the floor and pulled the tamer bracket about a half inch past where I have it attached to the dash. That allows me to know I have an extra half inch of travel leftover....
