TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I mentioned in a post awhile back that I was dealing with a Hurst Promatic II shifter cable being burned by header tubes and how annoying it was that they only make the 5 foot cable for that shifter.
The OE Hurst cable had to travel all the way up the side of the block and then turn and come back to the trans within a couple of inches of the tubes.
Hursts answer was to route it across to the passenger side, up along the back of the intake and down to the trans, and I told them that was ridiculous and I wasn't doing it.
Well, I took a small risk and ordered a cable from B&M which is 36 inches and super heavy duty. (Race-Super Duty) is what they call it and it cost the same as a new Hurst cable would have and is visually a lot tougher and heavier.
It was close, but the 36 inch cable now goes through the floor and immediately starts it's loop back to the trans linkage without going forward of the bell housing at all.
I assembled it all with the shifter and trans both in neutral and once together I checked every gear position and it's perfect geometry wise. (no reason it shouldn't be with the only change being the cable)
MUCH crisper and positive feeling due to the 24 inches less cable and a heavier stiffer cable with less pointless movement in it.
The new cable has beefier better fitting dust covers as well.
The one and only mod I had to make was the eyelet on the B&M cable where it connects to the shifter inside the car was to make a small 2mm spacer ring.
The B&M eyelet is 6.6mm and the Hurst is 4.6mm so I sacrificed and old cheapie 1/4 drive 4.5mm socket and made the spacer ring.
Everything else connected up perfectly on the entire swap, even the threaded post that goes into the linkage lever fit on the B&M cable.
B&M makes this exact cable in 3-4 and5 foot versions.
Here's the part number for the cable I got from B&M.
3-FT Shifter Cable, Race-Super Duty (#80831)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80831
The OE Hurst cable had to travel all the way up the side of the block and then turn and come back to the trans within a couple of inches of the tubes.
Hursts answer was to route it across to the passenger side, up along the back of the intake and down to the trans, and I told them that was ridiculous and I wasn't doing it.
Well, I took a small risk and ordered a cable from B&M which is 36 inches and super heavy duty. (Race-Super Duty) is what they call it and it cost the same as a new Hurst cable would have and is visually a lot tougher and heavier.
It was close, but the 36 inch cable now goes through the floor and immediately starts it's loop back to the trans linkage without going forward of the bell housing at all.
I assembled it all with the shifter and trans both in neutral and once together I checked every gear position and it's perfect geometry wise. (no reason it shouldn't be with the only change being the cable)
MUCH crisper and positive feeling due to the 24 inches less cable and a heavier stiffer cable with less pointless movement in it.
The new cable has beefier better fitting dust covers as well.
The one and only mod I had to make was the eyelet on the B&M cable where it connects to the shifter inside the car was to make a small 2mm spacer ring.
The B&M eyelet is 6.6mm and the Hurst is 4.6mm so I sacrificed and old cheapie 1/4 drive 4.5mm socket and made the spacer ring.
Everything else connected up perfectly on the entire swap, even the threaded post that goes into the linkage lever fit on the B&M cable.
B&M makes this exact cable in 3-4 and5 foot versions.
Here's the part number for the cable I got from B&M.
3-FT Shifter Cable, Race-Super Duty (#80831)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80831
