The "Indestructible" Slant 6

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well this went down hill quick... and he says its like the biggest carb... hmm... probably because its starting to get enough fuel!

boost modded carb? im sure not

pressure increase as boost increases? im sure not

correct piston to cylinder wall clearance? im sure not

correct ring end gap for boost? im sure not

threw new bearing in it? were they gauged? im sure not

that slant even now will be stronger than anything you can replace it will...

:wack:

when you put the small block chevy in i'll make you pop that motor trying to keep up with the slant!
 
What it looks like happened to me is, the press fit was lost in the small end of the rod. Even momentarily, this ain't good. It looks like once it was lost, then the pin probably seized in the rod......at perhaps the wrong angle. Game over. And I'll tell you the quickest thing that will cause a press fit pin to lose it's press fit is an overheated engine. Most of the time though, the pin does not seize back up. It slides into the cylinder wall. Of course all this is just a guess, but I think it's a better guess than just "a failed rod". This could explain the entire failure. The broken piston, the twisted rod. All of it.

Go back and look at the small end of the rod. It's black as can be. This isn't just from being heated to slide the pin in at assembly, either. That's DAMAGED from heat.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Right. Go back and look at the small end of the rod. I know it's a press fit there, but look how black it is. That's HEAT that caused that. Something was up there.
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805moparkid said:
well this went down hill quick... and he says its like the biggest carb... hmm... probably because its starting to get enough fuel!



correct piston to cylinder wall clearance? im sure not

correct ring end gap for boost? im sure not
:wack:

when you put the small block chevy in i'll make you pop that motor trying to keep up with the slant!
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Yes heat would cause piston siezure.

Probably running marginal A/F ratios & that particular cylinder was the leanest.

Piston crown gets hot, ring gap never opened up from stock for the added heat of boost, ring/piston siezes & the cank yanks the wrist pin out of the skirt.

Once the rod was loose, all kinds of bad $hit happened.

One thing for sure, the bottom of the piston did not come off AFTER the rod left the crank. Impossible for that to happen W/O some severe downward forces from the rod on a piston that was held stationary.

The OP appears to not have enough mechanical apptitude to anylyse what happened let alone set-up a homegrown forced induction system.
 
hey, you can always be a monster douche nozzle and put a supra turbo in it. Seriously, all of this whining over a thrown rod that is YOUR doing? Come on now. When you use something in a fashion it is not designed for you should expect problems. I would whoop my kids *** if he behaved like this. Man up. Christ.
 
My guess is still the same as my previous thoughts.
He ate a bolt or a valve, maybe hydrolock.

The heat markings on the pin end is probably from
where they heated the rod to insert the pin when
they installed the piston.
 
cudavert said:
I wonder if the fuel flow to that carb "stopped" once it came on boost. :D Or reversed direction.....:D:D
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exactly... made me start thinking about valve spring pressures... slants were light to begin with, then add 40 years... and then boost...
 
What does si say on duck dynasty???????? gone he's gone!!!!! You guy's scared him away!!!!!!!!
 
swifter said:
What does si say on duck dynasty???????? gone he's gone!!!!! You guy's scared him away!!!!!!!!
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the useless tit put a turbo on a car and blames the manufacture for it blowing up? then brags up chebby of course he's going to get both barrels
 
66plyValiant said:
the useless tit put a turbo on a car and blames the manufacture for it blowing up? then brags up chebby of course he's going to get both barrels
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And he probably things he can pick up a 175k mile LS and put the turbo on without blowing it up too.... :banghead:
 
OP is a tool, he should have gone through it with a fine tooth comb and checked everything, including ring gaps before jap slapping a turbo on it, then he's got the plums to blame the engine? Southern ignorance to a 'T', that's how they grow um in Missourah. Why I left.

It's so strange this comes up, because I got a Chevy Suburban square body for free because some jackass thought he could do the same thing to the 6.2 that was in it... LMAO.
 
hence why every highschool auto class has smallblock chevys as builders. Anyone with half a brain can pay 100 bucks for a mr gasket chrome dressup kit and gasket kit and then say, "oh yea my smallblock cherberdurr makes herp a derp 5 million horsepowurrrs!!!!" please spare me....go ahead and build a chevy, the ONLY reason EVERYONE builds them is because theyre CHEAP. in the end, its cost. i dont care what reason people have to litigate their reasoning, its because theyre cheap. end of rant.
 
The slanty from my Father's 1976 Valiant is still powering a lobster boat out of Green Harbor, Mass. They pulled it from the boat a few years ago expecting to have to replace it and were amazed at its condition. They freshened her up and dropped her back in!

I guess life at 2200 RPM is not a bad 'retirement' from the old moper. -LY
 
If its the #5 cylinder that failed, its common to that engine. Nothing lasts forever.
 
This Arkansas red neck can see a very nasty engine inside, I mean wow just look at all
the build up and abuse that slant went threw :coffee2: I am not buying it has never over heated
or ran low on oil....... that /6 has baked on sludge everywhere, I would like to see the oil pump screen on it.... that stuff will fall off and plug any pump up. I have disassembled a few 318's and 360's and they had well over 100.000 miles on them just to be parked because of other parts on the car went bad or wrecked and never have I seen such a nasty gummed up engine like the OP..

To our /6 gurus here Thank you for some good advice and incite
 
I was never into the "redneck" life growing up in the south. There are many of us that aren't ignorant. Basically the few that bought Mopar, didn't cobble together a turbo motor, and didnt whine and cry like a .....well..you know
 
RustyRatRod said:
Would you mind elaborating on that? There are lots of us still in the south.
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Yes there is :cheers: not that I am but we know 2 old fun racers here that are
doing a great move on a /6 Bill D and his friend Frank, then we have another just south of me about 100 miles we call 66aCUDA and RustyRatRod and many more :cheers:
Not me :D I am enjoying the learning process a little at a time Thank you all :cheers:
 
Those of us that have been speculating I think agree that the rod wasn't the cause, but the end result. I agree that there was something either on top of the piston or WITH the piston. Whether the pin was the cause or perhaps the piston itself. Maybe aomething dancin around on top......who knows? One thing is for sure. The OP is short sighted.....yeah........that's me bein nice. LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
Would you mind elaborating on that? There are lots of us still in the south.
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i THINK he means. There is a difference between a southern man and what he described.

I know a lot of guys down south. All of you are top notch guys. Then there are the other, "deliverance" folk. you know. Chevy guys.:D
 
Looks like the rod was twisted before it left the piston. Maybe it ran like that for a short period.
 
Holy shnikeys. That's some heat! Look at how waxed the coloration is on the small end.

There is no reason a piston will grenade in half like that if it's nice and free in the bore.

If a rod fails, the piston won't go with it. I've seen skirts get snapped from rod halves flying, sure, but usually, the wrist pin is intact in the piston if the rod caused the failure.

IAT (intake air temp) should be monitored in a turbo engine as well as oil temp. Heat does funny things to metal. Like expands it and burns anything that it contacts, including, but not limited to oil.

I've seen slants eat #5 rod bearings and rods and still run. It's the hottest spot in the engine, but both occurrances were due to jackass owners being cheap and not keeping up on oil.

boosted engines need lots of room.
 
hemitheus said:
i THINK he means. There is a difference between a southern man and what he described.

I know a lot of guys down south. All of you are top notch guys. Then there are the other, "deliverance" folk. you know. Chevy guys.:D
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This is exactingly right, I love people everywhere, and everywhere has it's idiots, up here they are called lumberjacks. No offense to those good ol' boys and girls that get it done with grace, style and pride. :)

I love y'all!
 
I agree. It started on the small end. Whether under the piston or on top. No way does a reputable machine heat a rod that much to press a pin in. That rod end is BLACK. It's been heated to the point of weakening. Something either happened with the pin itself, or to the piston somehow.


DaveBonds said:
Holy shnikeys. That's some heat! Look at how waxed the coloration is on the small end.

There is no reason a piston will grenade in half like that if it's nice and free in the bore.

If a rod fails, the piston won't go with it. I've seen skirts get snapped from rod halves flying, sure, but usually, the wrist pin is intact in the piston if the rod caused the failure.

IAT (intake air temp) should be monitored in a turbo engine as well as oil temp. Heat does funny things to metal. Like expands it and burns anything that it contacts, including, but not limited to oil.

I've seen slants eat #5 rod bearings and rods and still run. It's the hottest spot in the engine, but both occurrances were due to jackass owners being cheap and not keeping up on oil.

boosted engines need lots of room.
Click to expand...
 
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