The Kelsey-Hayes Disk Brake Swap Thread

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the kelsey hayes conversion you posted is really good thank you. I need to do the same thing to my kids 68 dart. I have most of the hard parts but "assumed" it would be to costly to use
 
HELLO 57DODGED100,

Thank you for your post, super helpful. I know you have done much more research than me and have the actual hands-on experience… Because I am putting newer parts ‘72 on an older car ‘65 I need to confirm a few things… Thank you for your help.

Question about your choice of the Master Cylinder (MC36406) for the drum to disc brake swap project. I have a 1965 Valiant, 225cid. I am planning to keep the 5x4” bolt pattern and the rear 10” drums. My donor parts are from a 1972 Dart.

If I look up the Master cylinder used on the 1972 Valiant or Dart, 225CID, with front discs and rear drums, RockAuto lists the RAYBESTOS Part # MC36426, Professional Grade; Bore Size=1 1/32".

The original Master Cylinder on the 1965 Valiant was a very small BENDIX system (see RockAuto part # 11096).

Is there a big difference between the Raybestos Master Cylinder MC36406 you used and the other MC36426. I am thinking I should just stick with what you used… but unsure.

The original Master Cylinder (Bendix 11096) has an intergraded pushrod. Do I need another part or adaptor to use the newer MC36406?

My goal was to avoid replacing the brake lines, but the original equipment master cylinder has two outlets in slightly different configuration than the MC36406. Do I just bend (very carefully) the brake lines to meet the new MC36406?

Thank You
Acatl
 
I'm not an expert on the potential difference between the two MC part numbers you list. Ask your parts counter guy. IF the only difference in the bore size, most guys think the smaller bore works better to give slightly less pedle effort.

I'm also not sure how to answer your pushrod question. Perhaps start a separate thread with that question in the title and someone with more knowledge will answer your question. When you figure it out, post the answer on this thread for the next guy.

I would try to carefully rebend the brake lines to the new locations for the MC. BUT you do need to change your distribution block to a proportioning valve. When you do that the short lines from the prop valve to the new MC will be easy to replace if you can't bend them.

Good luck!
 
I did some research on the master cyl's for my 67 a few years ago, because of the numerous part number I was getting for the same cyl w/disc brake.

From what I have found is there are 3 bore sizes, 15/16, 1" and 1-1/32. As mentioned this will change pedal effort.

The second difference I have found was a bolt on top like the factory and the clip on top like the later models. 10-1326 clip on or 10-1323 bolt on. The noted difference between these two is the 326 is said to be for disc/drum and the 323 is said to be for drum/drum. Both have a 1" bore. The 326 appears is actually just a higher fluid capacity master cyl. I did use the 10-1323 on both of mine as these are like the factory masters that were originally on the car. Had my purpose going to be more then just typical driving - drag racing, road racing etc I would have gone with the high cap cyl. Don't know if this helps.... just some info I'll pass along.
 
mickey_bigdaddy said:
What other donor cars can I get parts off? There aren't many 1968 Barracudas around.
Click to expand...

The master cylinder, proportioning valve, and lines in between will need to come from a 67-72 KH equipped A-body. The 65-66 used a single piston master cylinder. Other than the firewall parts, any KH-equipped A-body can be a donor.
 
What size is the ball-joint socket for the swap? I see a bunch online, don't wanna fudge it.
 
"This Kelsey Hayes disk brake swap should work for any A-body with the 5x4 small bolt pattern wheel, EXCEPT those with 13” wheels".
Why does this swap not work for cars with 13" rims? Are they built differently?
 
Can we make this thread --- which is an important reference for many who own either original cars with this factory setup, or converted cars that still use the 4" factory bolt circle ---
a STICKY at the top of the page, please?
 
64conv65hard said:
"This Kelsey Hayes disk brake swap should work for any A-body with the 5x4 small bolt pattern wheel, EXCEPT those with 13” wheels". Why does this swap not work for cars with 13" rims? Are they built differently?
Click to expand...

Rotors and calipers are too big and would hit the inside or top of the wheel.
 
You did a great job of documenting your disc conversion, thanks. Pictures made it helpful too.
 
I am collecting and cleaning parts for this same upgrade. I greatly appreciate all the trouble you have gone through to put this information together in one thread. Thank you!!!

You had mentioned the availability of new boots for the lower ball joints. My ball joints are smooth and tight, but the rubber boots are shot. Any idea of a part number, manufacturer, or supplier of just the boots?
 
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