The official FABO machinist/member collaboration, busted 340 thread

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Garrett Ellison said:
If the block passes inspection, what’s realistically in the works in the way of machine work to bring it back to usable other than the usual rebore and home and paralleling (or at least straightening) the decks? If there’s a case of failure that hammers a bottom end enough to make it necessary to line bore or hone an engine, I would think that this one is probably there.
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Next step is to thoroughly clean the block, and take some more measurements. The bottom end is absolutely hammered, it may need a line hone, and I'm pretty concerned with lifter bore wear, but we will wait and see
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Any signs of cap walk? I’m guessing the main cap bolts have had to take a beating, too. A grenade in the making, the only difference is it’s turning a key instead of pulling a pin…
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No real signs of cap walk, but the cap registers are a little looser than I like.
 
The FABO Gold member I bought it from I sent him a link to this thread. Looks like he just sold some stuff last week
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just curious, is there actually a fix for that?
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From my experience, it seems more like it's the cap rather than the block. The blunt nose chisel works, but most of the time I find I can stick a different cap on the block and its tight. That would require caps that fit close to correct on the main bore, and then a line hone job however
 
Block casting, and no stamped vin

20220912_111604.jpg
 
replicaracer43 said:
Anyway, continuing with the autopsy, it definitely doesn't get better! By somehow, much to my absolute amazement, the camshaft, while worn out, did NOT lose a lobe....the lifters however look worse than any lifter I have ever removed.

View attachment 1715983461
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@replicaracer43 I have a few brand new small block flat tappet cams squirreled away. I will donate one to the cause if one would work for this build. They are all small duration street grinds.
 
318willrun said:
Lesson here is the proper break-in the first 80 miles, or you can get into trouble real quick !!




:D
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Good advice for sure, although no breakin procedure would have made any difference on this poor thing. Garbage machine work, poor assembly, and leaving out galley plugs resulting in circulation of unfiltered oil, it never even stood a chance.
 
Are the TRW pistons salvageable enough to resale or did they get reduced to scrap aluminum?
 
Sellers add stated "freshly rebuilt heads with hardened exhaust seats" yeaaaaaaa, not so much! Shitty valve job, no seat inserts, original Chrysler valves worn out.

20220912_143744.jpg
 
66fs said:
Why would you describe the valve job this way?
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Because it's more descriptive than "crap" But it's just it had a stone touched on the intake side, seats too wide, exhaust side the seat was not cut concentric, and they we leaking.
 
replicaracer43 for those of us who don't know where is your shop? You are doing a stand up job as well as helping out, I would be happy to send you work.
 
65 Cuda 340 said:
So we - or some of us - know who the seller is? Think it's time to identify him for the rest of us, especially since he's still selling.

He can respond if he likes, or not, but he needs to quit hiding.
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Its really up to the owner to disclose that if he chooses. There IS a possibility that the seller was screwed over by the machine shop that did the work, and perhaps truly believed the engine to be as described. I really dont know.
 
If the hijacking doesn't stop, I am gonna be done updating this thread. Its ment to help a guy out, and be instructional, not for random members to argue.
 
I don’t like to see someone taking advantage of, so I have a new set of FM ( like TRW) forged stock replacement pistons, that should be identical to the pistons in this engine, but .040 over if needed.
 
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