The truth about caltracs

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@crackedback:
I apologize to you from my previous postings. Your tone offended me, it was like "mine work", you are stupid, and I am not going to tell you why. But never the less, I apologize to you. You seem to be friends with inkjunky & oldmanrick, so you can't be all the bad! LOL Enough said.
You finally came out and said something that would help people in your last posting. And I admire your input. I don't totally agree with you on everything. You left a few things out, like the cuda is a SB, most of us are BB's. Let me add the cuda has a 904, I am running a JW ultra bell 'glide. The case weighs more then a complete 727 or 904.It also has a tall 1st gear, like leaving in second with a 727 or 904.I am transbraking because I run S/Pro, Cuda is footbraking, which doesn't carry the same hard hit.Our weight might be close, but it isn't in the same places.
There are many other factors to consider like our track. Now that it is well prepped toward the end of the season, including warm weather, my car has come around to a 5 hun window, not the 2 teethes swing it had. But it is still not consistant as I want it to be, and can be. It can run 5 11:24-26's (@5000') then pop out a now and again 11:15, which is not dictated buy altitude or temp. It just gets a killer 60'.Somethimes because they just track prepped, other times for no reason.
I talked to my Seattle Abody friends this weekend. Troy went to the finals at the Summit Race Of Champions in Boise 2 years back. He lost in the final because his transbrake didn't hold. Anyway, he said that after 6 months struggling with his Cal Tracs, he got them work pretty good after Toby Lang (you know the lang family?) told him that he needed to run a stiff wall tire and TUBES. I asked this question to Mr. Calvert, he said no. qutiarjones and I talked about it too , he also made a posting about it elsewhere on Abody's.
What happens is, with the low tire pressure (I only got mine to work with 8LBS, he runs 13) coupled with the soft sidewall and no tubes, the tire wades, and then you drive over the wade, this causes slight spin. Makes sense to me, and it works for him. Also remember, SIR is at sea level, and is always really well prepped. I ran 10:91-92-91-93-92-91 last year on my SS springs, so you can see why I still like them. Heck, I may put them back on.
As for the afco shocks and weight in the boot. I can't argue that it works for you, but the cornet that struggles at our track too (he was # 4 in points, I finished #3 this year) added 120 lbs, and ran the afco's, he tried the combo of afcos and leaf sliders with very little success. The only thing that worked for him, was taking it too Yakima on a well-prepped track last summer, where he gained a little more consistency. They were using PJ1, we were using laneswamp! We are now using PJ1, but cut, except for this weekend, and during our divisional, when NHRA comes in.
Chipping it down like I did to 3500 on a 5500 converter (per Mr. Calvert), then going to 8lbs pressure is what finally worked for him, as does for me. He also still has the weight. I tried it, but it didn't work for me. My reaction times went nuts. I threw it out, and won the race.
Bottom line, I can't argue that the cuda works, my hats off, and I am not saying they can't work, but I have to agree with skews, instant center too high, too short, and that is that, especially on a heaver BB car. Just stand back and look at the geometry.
As far as the cuda's E.T.s. That is awesome. But when I switched back and forth
in my 10 second SB Duster, I ran 3 teethes quicker with the 940/Grinner,over the 727/same grinner. Both ran 8" Neal Chance 5500 converters.
All I can say is, we can beat this dead horse to death, but in most Abody’s (notice I said most) applications, they are not consistent. They give good traction, you can get a hemi to run 9's, and if you are into going fast and running your car for fun, they work awesome. But if you are a serious bracket racer, looking for even a thou more of consistency it isn’t going to happen on Cal Tracs.
Hopefully this posting was helpful to others, there was no intention of putting you or the cuda down.I tried to stay on the issue. So Iam hoping I get the same respect back from you.
Cheers Chris
 
You did not throw the weight out....it is sitting on my table saw in the garage waiting to be used somewhere....Just saying....
 
Cool.

May be counter-intuitive, but, slowing the front end extension down may show some benefit.

It's usually bad to have the front nail a hard stop on extension.
 
I have read every post on this site about CALTRACS, and have come to the conclusion that no two cars are the same,even if set up nearly identical! I have a 1974 DART sport,360 stroked to 410c.i. making 600hp @ the flywheel on the dyno,727w/5500stall,4:30 gears & weighs 3300lbs with me in it running M/T et street radials. With the 40year old stock springs & slapper bars my 60ft. times were from 1.47 - 1.50. I went like a fool & bought caltracs,monoleafs & thier rear shocks . I have tried every possible combo of settings, up & down on launch rpm,0 preload to a 1/2 turn,every shock setting, as low as 13psi tire pressure, even top hole with no improvment. The best 60ft. I can get is 1.54. I have talked to John Calvert himself several times & all he can say is its not his product! Its the track, my tires, transmission, converter, carb. , even the driver(me). I have the full travel on the front he suggested +(5.5inches) everything free & not binding. I have concluded that caltracs are for fords & chevys & are useless on a mopar! If anyone can supply a solution on settings, other than whats on this site, please do so. Otherwise I will be removeing this crap & returning to my stock suspension! As a side note I have several other mopar racers i've spoken with who are also unsatisfied with thier caltracs! :banghead:
Befor I read anything at all sumone don't know what there doing,,,,,,cus I have seen 14.00 sec. cars caring the front wheels...........just saying hop im not steping on any toes..............Artie:wack:
 
Cool.

May be counter-intuitive, but, slowing the front end extension down may show some benefit.

It's usually bad to have the front nail a hard stop on extension.

Slow down the extension.....as in using "stiffer" shocks, rebound wise?
 
Befor I read anything at all sumone don't know what there doing,,,,,,cus I have seen 14.00 sec. cars caring the front wheels...........just saying hop im not steping on any toes..............Artie:wack:

thats the goal with my slant six car!
 
Pretty sure rebound is extension as compression is well.......at least it was when I bought a set of Sway-A-Ways for my truck many moons ago....but would not be the first time I was wrong....
 
@skrews, yes all year but cut with methanol, was looking for you this weekend? Are you going to Walla Walla 14th?
 
@skrews, yes all year but cut with methanol, was looking for you this wekend? Are you going to Walla Walla 14th?
Yep, going for them Wallys. Couple of our local track guys mentioned how much better the traction was up there. Thought to myself " you guys need to take notes ".
 
Yes, it has been better. Craig stepped up, and we've had Chuck From Firebird Az. all summer.He knows what to do.
We may just show up, didn't get Mr.Wally here,I am greedy! Got 2 more chances @ King of the track.
1st round Summit, I get a 4 thou package , complete with .001 light laid on me, oh well, he is the same guy I got in the gambler 1st round, he ran dead on his number (7:97.0) with a -.001 red. Pay backs suck, darn those dragsters! I might as well just stayed at the starting line!
 
For the original poster, here is what worked on my car:

Bottom hole, 1 flat preload driver side, 2 flats preload passenger side.
Rear shocks set on 6.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this might change this fall, but as of right now, my car is still slightly faster on bone stock springs (1.49 60'). The one thing that the caltracs did do for my car was make it consistent when the track was crap, and make the launch level (no more twisting launch with 1 tire in the air).

Get your front end loose as you can, drop any extra weight off the front that you can (move battery to truck, remove font bumper, glass hood, etc), and get the nose low. These are the things that really helped my car get good weight transfer before adding the Caltracks.

I have been tuning my Caltracks for over a year, and I have not given up on them yet. I footbrake, current 60' times are usually low 1.50's (1.53-1.52). Last year in the fall I got one 1.49x 60', just a few thousandths slower than my best on stock springs...but I used to have 1.49-1.50 60' times on a regular basis on my stock springs.....Anyway, I should know later this month if my recent findings of transmission issues have any pay off with a quicker ET and 60'. I have 2 more races in my "slow" setup, then I'm switching it back to going fast....long story. :D
 
I agree if you want to have a consistant car I would go with ladder bars.
Race car best.,
Off the juice-9.59 139 mph 60 ft 1.19.
Wheels high.


My street car.I just put Calvert complete suspension on and am very interested in this post.




Hope to get this setup to work.
 
I ran CalTracs for 5 seasons on a '69 Charger,3800lbs.,transbrake Super Pro car. A good adjustable shock on the front is a must,I had QA1 Stocker Stars single adj. set at 6,in the middle of the 12 adjustmets. Used the Rancho shocks from Calvert with their mono leaf springs. I think stiff sidewall slicks with tubes help as well. I ran 10.5 inch Hoosier's @ 15lbs. I launched @ 4500 rpm,440 with about 500hp,727 with 8" Turbo Action converter,4.56 gear with a spool. Dual batterys in the trunk,one on the pass side,one on the driver's side.
I went from a SS spring,pinion snubber setup with CE 3 way shocks. My car would hook great with the SS springs on a good track,pull the left front tire about 10 inches,but not well at all on a slick track,60fts all over the place.
When I installed the CalTracs,I took the car to a track on test & tune night,knowing there would be no track prep at all. I had adjusted the car in the shop with the rear shocks on 6,half a turn of pre-load on the pass side. The car spun at the hit,bounced at around the 60 ft mark. Came back set the shocks softer,@4,next pass almost the same but not as bad. Long story short,I took all the pre-load out with about a dime's thickness air gap,ended up with the shocks set at 1,softest sitting worked perfect on any track. Pulled both front tires about 3 inches.I never changed the sittings in five years. I think alot of guys try for to hard of a hit with CalTracs just like I did at first.Also I found the need for higher pressure in the slicks,ran 8lbs with SS springs,15lbs with the Tracs. My car would 60 ft. within a couple thou all year long. So they did work for me,but at first I thought I had wasted my cash big time.
I wanted to use the CalTracs to keep from cutting up the car,otherwise I would have went ladder bar or 4 link in a full on race car.
 
Not an A-Body....But
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvMBZaGSgYw"]1969 GTX runs 9.43 @ 145mph - YouTube[/ame]

Small tire Dart...... :)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e7A7oRhsnU"]67 Dodge Dart GT 10.84 @ 123.56 - YouTube[/ame]
 
@sbeeman:
Yes, stiff side walls and tubes help, along with higher tire pressure (10-15lbs).Better adjustable rear shocks do help,but super expensive. One of the advantage is your B body has a longer front of the leaf spring.I.E. Instant center is further foward by about 3"s, but the biggest advantage, is your 3800 pound car, is going to have way more weight at the rear of the car over the tires along with a longer wheel base.
You are correct. Toby Lang pointed out, that Cal Tracs "hit the tires" harder, then even ladder bars, but then have a difficult time keeping the tires planted after the leave.
I would guess you have your bars in the lower hole.
The way my car is set up (lower RPM leave, with low tire pressure) to me is a patch job.But it is what worked for me.
I run bunches of 25's, then a couple of 15's thrown in. I figure it really is running 15's, because when it hooks that is the number, but the rest of the time, the 25's are contolled spin!It always shows the difference in the 60'.
I am glad you got them to work for you.You have good info, that will help others.
 
One of the things I've noticed is that people inadvertently mix up Caltrac tuning methods, traction vs efficiency. What I mean by that is when you race at a track that is extremely well prepped (car dead hooking every pass no matter what) You are tuning launch efficiency not traction. In this situation you are trying get rid of unnecessary movement. Tighter shocks, lower hole, more air pressure. Conversly on a track that is slick ie hot, poor prep, ect. You are tuning for traction, usually low tire pressure, loose shocks, upper hole, more preload. More hit essentially. All to often people ask how should I adjust my Caltracs, and a lot of good advise is given, but for what conditions?
On my car I'm at the opposite ends of the tuning spectrum from spring and fall vs summer.
I've seen out of towner guys that are known as the guys whos Caltrac car will hook anywhere come to our local track, make 3 or 4 shitty passes, and packup and leave because they couldn't get the car to work.
 
@skrews, Think Seattle, the place just about rips my head off, everytime I go there. I am sure the good air has a lot to do with it also.
As I mentioned previously our track has been better, which has helped my car a little,due to the Divisional and the E.T. finals being ran there.Chuck from Firebird AZ. has been doing an awesome job too.
I see why NHRA gets $15,000.00 for showing up, and you supply the Sticky stuff.Then they proceed to dump 15 drums on your track for a 4 day event.
 
I run mine with no preload, actually an 1/8 inch of gap at rest. I run my tires at 12.5 to 13 psi. The caltraks hook great when the track is good. I have been using them for 2 years now, but am not an expert by any means. But I do like them. One thing I have been wondering watching this thread is this; Calvert offers different spring segments for each app to change ride heigth, and for weight. I have mine set a 1" higher than stock and the bar is in the lower hole. Has anyone tried changing leaf spring bias to see if the consistancy is improved? He will change them out for free once. He did for a friend of mine for his ride.
 
I have stock leaf springs and have mine in the top hole with zero gap on both sides Rancho shocks set on 9 with Calvert front shocks. I am running 315 drag radial with 16-18 lbs air and I footbrake. My best 60 ft so far has been 1.34 and carry the front tires about 2 ft. off the ground for about 25 ft. I am running a D-50 truck that is extremely nose heavy. I hope to go to a 904 with a transbrake this winter, I do not know how it will work then. Pump gas 394 smallblock with mufflers and street legal, 2950 lbs.
 
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