lemondana
BlackDart
I have an older Mopar friend that worked in the city Police Garage in the 70's, 80's, and 90's. There were some things that I just have to disagree with him on. He told me that TQ's were designed to have that bog in them.
I would run a choke. I like the one from a 73 up truck since there is no electric heater. I'd be tightening up the secondary air valve 1/8 turn till the bog is gone. Pictures of the carb and choke side?Took the carb off. Took off the top and it turns out the floats were significantly too low. Fixed that. Then I set the idle screw to where there was about 0.020" of transfer slot. Tightened down the pipe plug over the vacuum port which may have been causing a vacuum leak.
Very slight stumble when cold, but nothing like what I was experiencing before. Once it warmed up it was almost completely smooth. I think I will shorten the accelerator pump linkage a small amount to dial it in and possibly go another 1/4 turn on the idle speed screw. It should be good to go in that aspect.
The secondaries have about a 1/2 second bog when I stomp on it but catch right up if I keep my foot pinned. Easing into them at 60mph feels great and 90 comes up real quick. I've never driven a spread bore carb car and the sound...wow. I swear the hood buckles a little. I might try shortening the dashpot linkage a little––I am already 2.5 turns wound up on the spring. What about a vacuum restrictor? Heard old uncle tony talking about that, although I know better than to do what he says without asking other people first. He seems to get away with stuff most of us don't lol
Thanks for the help everyone
The secondaries bog is not always due to the AV spring adjustment......which is why adjusting it does not cure the bog. Logic should tell you that if the factory AV tension is not enough on a stock engine...& this is a stock engine.....then something else is wrong.
Causes of the bog can be:
- AV fully open position incorrect
- & for the 3rd time in this thread: faulty dashpot. The d/pot rubber diaphragms go hard over time & make the d/pot slow to release. Very hard to pick by looking at the d/pot. That is why the test in post #28 will determine if it is a d/pot problem.
A slow to release d/pot creates a rich bog. The AV hangs in the closed position, acting like a choke.
It does matter the condition of the spring.RRR,
It doesn't matter where the retaining pin is. To adjust, the AV is loosened & allowed to hang. The spring is then wound up until the back of the AV just touches the stop tang. From there, wind up another 1.25 turns. The method of adjustment allows for any manufacturing differences between carbs.
on the cold mornings, does it eventually work itself out once the engine is up to temp or does the problem persist until ambient temp comes up?Hi all
Got the secondary bog pretty much tuned out. Verified that the diaphragm was in good shape and that the air door opening was in spec. Gradually bent the linkage, and the bog is gone. Tires screech almost immediately.
I am still having a little trouble with the stumble. It almost completely went away with the float adjustment a couple weeks back. That was when it was 85 degrees. No longer so. Car is basically undrivable on a 50 degree morning.
I think that it is simply lean all the way around, given than the plugs look pretty horrible (pretty much no color) and that it likes the mixtures screws about 5 turns out. Car has 4095 jets in it right now. I'm going to try 4098s, which I have seen many people say is a solid starting point.
Doubt this is the case, but it a vacuum leak around the intake ports common? and how should I check?
Usually when one has great difficulty getting warmed up it's because it needs plugs, has the wrong plugs, needs more initial timing, or is running too lean.It starts out really, really bad, getting slightly better as the engine warms up. Its hard to say about the ambient temp, but that does seem to be a factor.
Most people I know here in LA don't run chokes and say they don't have problems, so I think I'm just running much too lean anyhow.
i think the choke may be a factor. it's likely not the only factor, but it is part of the whole picture.It starts out really, really bad, getting slightly better as the engine warms up. Its hard to say about the ambient temp, but that does seem to be a factor.
Most people I know here in LA don't run chokes and say they don't have problems, so I think I'm just running much too lean anyhow.
Man, I can go out in 20 degree weather, bust Vixen off and she's idling in under a minute, choke adjusted WIDE open and not wired up. Same with Gladys, my truck. The choke operation is for when the engine is cold. If you live in a colder climate, then yeah, it might help out some but if you were brought up driving carburetors, it's second nature with no choke. At least for me.i think the choke may be a factor. it's likely not the only factor, but it is part of the whole picture.
everybody i know here in LA that daily's anything runs a choke. it's only the fun summer time burger cruiser guys that generally don't, but for all my clients i tell 'em to run a choke.
there's also the fact that two weeks ago it was 100+ and dry and now it's much cooler and damp. so again, not the only issue, but a consideration.
i think you're headed in the right direction. see if you can dial in your advance/curve better. how do the plugs look?