Yup... Indian head.. or aviation.. both bout the same
Thermostat gasket leaking AGAIN!!!!
- Thread starter jfive
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340six
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On stock ones i use it. Holds it in place and seals.
But will admit I use Billet with O Rings on stuff when needs to be bling. They don't leak but cost
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no problem with that, i'm just cheap
jfive
Well-Known Member
Ok I have the same problem. Gasket failed at the film again, that stuff turns to jelly apparently on contact with coolant.
Got the aviation sealer and new FELPRO gasket. Way different than the last 2. I guess they didn’t listen the other times I asked for Felpro. I got everything cleaned up and have another question.
What size are the bolts?
I want to get new ones as these just look nasty and missing some threads.
Here’s a few pictures of what I had.
Got the aviation sealer and new FELPRO gasket. Way different than the last 2. I guess they didn’t listen the other times I asked for Felpro. I got everything cleaned up and have another question.
What size are the bolts?
I want to get new ones as these just look nasty and missing some threads.
Here’s a few pictures of what I had.
What size socket to take them out? 1/2"= 5/16 thread....9/16 socket=3/8 thread.
Not to be a dick, but you're working on a 50-60 year old car, get a plastic bolt gauge, they're like $5, if that. If they're open holes to the coolant, make sure to seal them with Permatex hi-temp thread sealant.
Not to be a dick, but you're working on a 50-60 year old car, get a plastic bolt gauge, they're like $5, if that. If they're open holes to the coolant, make sure to seal them with Permatex hi-temp thread sealant.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Aluminum intake?
jfive
Well-Known Member
9/16, yea i will pick one up, probably needed of one for a while anyways, lol
the threads do not go all the way through to the coolant, that was another reason for asking bolt size was the length. i will match these up but was concerned about the bolts being to long?
just a stock intake
thanks all
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
It will probably never leak using that stuff but how do you get it apart later??
A buddy and I got talked into using that stuff in 1980 on the first engine I built.
We had to take the right angle adapter off and it was a nightmare. No one I know used it after that.
Thinking about it, I’m not sure why we even wanted that off the engine. There probably wasn’t a good reason back then but when you are that young you do things for bad or no reasons.
I just remember guys were not happy about that stuff.
you are right that it can be... difficult to remove.. what i do is slide a razor around the edge of the gasket and work it around then it pops out... But... it doesn't leak
Jfive,
Clean everything. Run a tap with wd40 into the intake to clean out the threads and bottom of the holes. Clean out the bottom of the holes with Q tips or air. Put a rag in the intake opening to keep debris out while cleaning. Wrap a 4 inch long piece of 2x4 with a piece of rough sand paper. Spray a little black paint (speckle the surface) on the neck flange and a light color on the intake. Sand it off completely with the block. Clean the step in the neck that the stat sits in too. Post pics.
Take the best bolt to the hardware store, lay the threads up against the new bolt, heads facing opposite directions. The right thread pitch will perfectly mesh with the threads on the old bolt. Get the same length and diameter. If they are only available slightly longer, add washers. Test fit the new hardware in the holes by themselves to see if the head will go at least as low/close to the intake as the neck flange is thick.
Clean everything. Run a tap with wd40 into the intake to clean out the threads and bottom of the holes. Clean out the bottom of the holes with Q tips or air. Put a rag in the intake opening to keep debris out while cleaning. Wrap a 4 inch long piece of 2x4 with a piece of rough sand paper. Spray a little black paint (speckle the surface) on the neck flange and a light color on the intake. Sand it off completely with the block. Clean the step in the neck that the stat sits in too. Post pics.
Take the best bolt to the hardware store, lay the threads up against the new bolt, heads facing opposite directions. The right thread pitch will perfectly mesh with the threads on the old bolt. Get the same length and diameter. If they are only available slightly longer, add washers. Test fit the new hardware in the holes by themselves to see if the head will go at least as low/close to the intake as the neck flange is thick.
moparmarkk
Well-Known Member
where did you get it from ? mark
Glue the gasket to the t stat housing. You can pull the housing off the hose easily and get rid of the gasket with a wire brush on a bench grinder. The housing can also be resurfaced easily if needed. The intake surface not so much.
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jfive
Well-Known Member
Got some new bolts already. I love working at a place that stocks hardware I need. 
jfive
Well-Known Member
My owner's shop manuals says the same thing, never used a torque wrench there. But I do use stainless steel washers under the bolt heads.
I fought the leaky T-stat housing battle with a recent big block build. Tried everything mentioned until I found that the Felpro gasket was de-laminating and leaking through the layers. Finally tried a gasket from "Real Gasket" company for $11.00 and problem has been permanently solved!
realgaskets.com
Thermostat Housing Gasket - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth - Older V8 Engines
THERMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET - for Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth V8 Engines. Silicone gasket - reusable. Part # RG-53063. Gaskets are made from aerospace mechanical grade AMS silicone and designed to withstand temperatures up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Made in the USA.
realgaskets.com
I used one of these recently and first time installed.....No Leaks
Thermostat Housing Gasket - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth - Older V8 Engines
Thermostat Housing Gasket - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth - Older V8 Engines
+1 for RealGaskets. Same issue on my 440, but no more!!!
Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
I've got an o-ring style chrome housing here. Go figure.
I don't remember if it leaked or not. I think I just took it off because it looked like cheap chrome dress up junk to me.
yeah, i kinda like the stock ones, i don't recall ever getting a leak there, i didn't know it was such an issue
Same here. Real Gaskets silicone gasket fixed my problems. Very little torque required. Retorque after your first couple thermal cycles.
That goes with my recommendation to get all the junk out of the hole.
If you put the bolt in the hole and tighten it till it stops turning ( don't tighten too much or you can crack the manifold) measure the distance from the underside of the bolt head to the manifold.
Then measure the thickness of the t stat housing.
The bolt to manifold distance has to be less than the thickness of the t stat housing.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
30 ft lbs?! No way in hell I go that tight. Not even half that
the 30 kinda surprised me, i was expecting 15
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