Throttle cable question(s)

-
4spdragtop

4spdragtop

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
41,675
Reaction score
25,631
Location
Ontario Parts Unknown
So I bought a new throttle cable from PG Classic. Not impressed. This is for 67 cuda 340 4bl with LD340.
254-AS Mopar 1967-76 A-body Small Block 19" Throttle Cable
2 issues, it's too long and I just realized the metal end that sits in firewall isn't 100% tight and it slid on the sheathing.
I would imagine I could "fix" the crimp to hold good on the sheathing, but the length issue not sure what to do.
Is there a way to "re-crimp" the ball on the pedal end?
The reason for replacement is my oem throttle has stuck open a couple times now...once on a causeway :eek:, so time to change it.
Suggestions? I have 3 throttle cables that are all basically unusable.
One with green tape is oem, bottom is repop and top is a used one thats too short.
Thanks
Steve

20240814_091721.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oh the quality of "Resto" parts.:BangHead:
Hate to say but just go ahead and fiddle with the repop and try to make it work.
Or make a extension on the carb side of the one that is too short.We have done that before.
OR the cable bracket that attaches to the manifold with a extension.
I was looking for photos but have nothing.
 
I had two cables form PG classics fail. The first one, the capture bead came off the end at the pedal slot. And both of the cables had the issue with the firewall fitting sliding up the sheath.
 
4spdragtop said:
So I bought a new throttle cable from PG Classic. Not impressed. This is for 67 cuda 340 4bl with LD340.
254-AS Mopar 1967-76 A-body Small Block 19" Throttle Cable
2 issues, it's too long and I just realized the metal end that sits in firewall isn't 100% tight and it slid on the sheathing sheathing.
I would imagine I could "fix" the crimp to hold good on the sheathing, but the length issue not sure what to do.
Is there a way to "re-crimp" the ball on the pedal end?
The reason for replacement is my oem throttle has stuck open a couple times now...once on a causeway :eek:, so time to change it.
Suggestions? I have 3 throttle cables that are all basically unusable.
One with green tape is oem, bottom is repop and top is a used one thats too short.
Thanks
Steve

View attachment 1716289132
Click to expand...

Pretty much impossible to re crimp those, but a bicycle shop has cable ends like Locar cables use.
Pretty sure Ace Hardware carries this type.

IMG_5714.jpeg
 
All the bs of "resto parts" just sucks any enjoyment outta this hobby. I had already "nipped" approx 1/8" off the clamp at the throttle bracket. I wonder if a bike shop would have proper crimping tools if I shortened cable? Or put a longer clevis on the used cable that's too short?
Thanks!
Darter6 said:
Oh the quality of "Resto" parts.:BangHead:
Hate to say but just go ahead and fiddle with the repop and try to make it work.
Or make a extension on the carb side of the one that is too short.We have done that before.
OR the cable bracket that attaches to the manifold with a extension.
I was looking for photos but have nothing.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Steve, can you return the repo?

till the resellers / repo manufacturers feel the pain for poor quality they will keep selling junk.


There are YouTube videos about repairing ball ends, and there are crimpers and supplies available too.
 
Thanks J, yep $100 down the fn drain. I got it hooked up last night and went to start it, gave it some pedal...wtf??
Were u able to "fix" the fittings sliding up cable issue?

Thanks Greg, that may work for the pedal end of the PG pos. I don't think it will work on carb end.
j_anderson said:
I had two cables form PG classics fail. The first one, the capture bead came off the end at the pedal slot. And both of the cables had the issue with the firewall fitting sliding up the sheath.
Click to expand...

TrailBeast said:
Pretty much impossible to re crimp those, but a bicycle shop has cable ends like Locar cables use.
Pretty sure Ace Hardware carries this type.

View attachment 1716289142
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I doubt it, it was a while back I bought it...6-8 months maybe??
Dana67Dart said:
Steve, can you return the repo?

till the resellers / repo manufacturers feel the pain for poor quality they will keep selling junk.


There are YouTube videos about repairing ball ends, and there are crimpers and supplies available too.
Click to expand...
 
Outer cable housing loose in fitting- how about a couple drops of super glue to lock it in place. I agree with the poor quality of reproduction parts.
 
Steve,
There is an original on ebay for $65 but no dimension of overall length mentioned. It looks legit and in pretty good shape just needs a spit shine. If you can return that damn repop like Dana suggested you will be $35 bucks ahead.
 
That's what I was thinking Murray, BUT I still gotta solve the length issue :rolleyes: :lol:
I'm thinking of crimping fishing weights on the pedal end to take up the slack?
Murray said:
Outer cable housing loose in fitting- how about a couple drops of super glue to lock it in place. I agree with the poor quality of reproduction parts.
Click to expand...
 
Problem with these Jeff is the issue if more than likely hidden inside the sheathing. My oem slides back and forth perfectly while in my hand, but the throttle has "stuck" twice in the past 2 weeks. Did it last year too.
jeff alder said:
Steve,
There is an original on ebay for $65 but no dimension of overall length mentioned. It looks legit and in pretty good shape just needs a spit shine. If you can return that damn repop like Dana suggested you will be $35 bucks ahead.
Click to expand...
They have a 30 day return policy, but I'm going to email them anyway and tell them it's a "known" issue.
j_anderson said:
I should dig out the receipt and see if I can return mine too
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Problem with these Jeff is the issue if more than likely hidden inside the sheathing. My oem slides back and forth perfectly while in my hand, but the throttle has "stuck" twice in the past 2 weeks. Did it last year too.

They have a 30 day return policy, but I'm going to email them anyway and tell them it's a "known" issue.
Click to expand...
I will do the same if I have both cables. If they don't know about the issue, they can't ask their supplier to fix it. I bought the second one back in April and it lasted a week.
 
4spdragtop said:
Problem with these Jeff is the issue if more than likely hidden inside the sheathing. My oem slides back and forth perfectly while in my hand, but the throttle has "stuck" twice in the past 2 weeks. Did it last year too.

They have a 30 day return policy, but I'm going to email them anyway and tell them it's a "known" issue.
Click to expand...
that's true of course. We have to rely on the credibility of the seller. Generally you can see the defect when the cable is pulled all the way in either direction. I dont have an extra or it would be yours!
 
4spdragtop said:
I wonder if a bike shop would have proper crimping tools if I shortened cable
Click to expand...
Nope. They just get a new cable if they cut one too short.

I don't think that ball is even crimped, more likely installed on the cable while it's molten.

I gave up on factory cables and switched to the adjustable Lokar type. They're cheap on Amazon, seems like I paid less than $15 for the last one I bought.
 
Uncle Bob said:
I gave up on factory cables and switched to the adjustable Lokar type
Click to expand...
Like this:
1723657568236.png


Yes I know that is a 2-bbl bracket, and yes I know I need to change it. It worked for now until I make another Mancini order.

I couldn't find a photo of the full install but it comes with a gadget for the end of the cable and a ball. Bolt the ball to the carb linkage, and plug the gadget/cable on the ball. The firewall end has a fitting similar to the one clamped in the bracket. You space it out so it doesn't hit the pedal inside, and thread a nut on it to hold it in place. The deal comes with a cable, or you can just use straight bike parts from Wal-Mart if you mess up cutting it or want to use it on something different.
 
Thanks Bob, Lokar for me is a last resort. I used one when I had the DQ on the 273. I've sent a local bike shop a pic, we will see. Take up the frickin slack with fishing weights and just leave the end sticking outta the pedal anyway...
Uncle Bob said:
Nope. They just get a new cable if they cut one too short.

I don't think that ball is even crimped, more likely installed on the cable while it's molten.

I gave up on factory cables and switched to the adjustable Lokar type. They're cheap on Amazon, seems like I paid less than $15 for the last one I bought.
Click to expand...

Uncle Bob said:
Like this:
View attachment 1716289199

Yes I know that is a 2-bbl bracket, and yes I know I need to change it. It worked for now until I make another Mancini order.

I couldn't find a photo of the full install but it comes with a gadget for the end of the cable and a ball. Bolt the ball to the carb linkage, and plug the gadget/cable on the ball. The firewall end has a fitting similar to the one clamped in the bracket. You space it out so it doesn't hit the pedal inside, and thread a nut on it to hold it in place. The deal comes with a cable, or you can just use straight bike parts from Wal-Mart if you mess up cutting it or want to use it on something different.
Click to expand...
 
Sticking can be caused by the plastic inside the carb end getting cooked and then jamming.

Especially if it is broken in several places.

Back in the day I had a 289 in a 63 Econoline van. The cable would go so far that the plastic part was completely out of the outer part it slides in and out of. One day at full throttle, it cocked sideways and stuck open.

Wild ride back into the parking lot I just left.
 
4spdragtop said:
Is there a way to "re-crimp" the ball on the pedal end?
Click to expand...

4spdragtop said:
I'm thinking of crimping fishing weights on the pedal end to take up the slack?
Click to expand...
How about sawing a Ferrel open to the center, slip it over and crimp it on and/or epoxy??
1723685659324.png


Is the OEM cable frayed or kinked? If it's just gummed up you may be clean it out with a slow speed drill, a vise, and lubricant.

1723689914540.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top