throttle linkage cable Q

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Rapid Robert

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I purchased a throttle cable of the correct length from firewall to holdown ferrule but it has no inner steel cable so I will need to pirate a longer one from another throttle cable. I will need to cut/shorten this one & on the pedal end the mini cable has a crimped very small (steel?) ball. how do I duplicate this when I cut that inner cable to the right length? thank you for your time. RR
 
I have seen you tube videos of people casting a lead ball on the end of a cable .

Might also be able to make a metal die, two halves, that you can put the cast ball on the end of the cable into and strike it to compress the ball.
 
I can think of several ways to skin this cat but honestly, unless there was some compelling reason not to do so, I'd just pony up a few bucks for a new complete cable. I've had broken throttle cables to deal with before and it was inconvenient at the least to semi-dangerous at the worst. Making your own inner cable raises the possibility of it coming loose when you least expect it.

I got my last cables from Rock Auto and they were about $20 or so. If you are determined to make your own I can offer some ideas on how to do that.
 
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you can buy a go-kart throttle cable with that 1/8"(?) ball on one end. Then you have to have a way to attach the cut end to your carb, which you can use a lokar style connection. Slick and any length cable you want, up to 100" or more.

I might mention the lokar inner cable itself is awful, the ball end has a shoulder that won't let it seat AND it's ball is undersized. Glad I don't have that problem.
here's the carb end
LOKAR S-1034 REPLACEMENT THROTTLE CABLE END ASSEMBLY FOR CARBURETOR | eBay

here's the cable, or one similar
Go Kart Racing Throttle Cable Ball End 72" inch Briggs Honda Raptor Clone Animal | eBay

My last choice would be this down at the pedal, but in a pinch it'd work. Might be good to have an extra in the glove box
CABLE KNARP 1/4 | eBay
 
you can buy a go-kart throttle cable with that 1/8"(?) ball on one end. Then you have to have a way to attach the cut end to your carb, which you can use a lokar style connection. Slick and any length cable you want, up to 100" or more.

I might mention the lokar inner cable itself is awful, the ball end has a shoulder that won't let it seat AND it's ball is undersized. Glad I don't have that problem.
here's the carb end
LOKAR S-1034 REPLACEMENT THROTTLE CABLE END ASSEMBLY FOR CARBURETOR | eBay

here's the cable, or one similar
Go Kart Racing Throttle Cable Ball End 72" inch Briggs Honda Raptor Clone Animal | eBay

My last choice would be this down at the pedal, but in a pinch it'd work. Might be good to have an extra in the glove box
CABLE KNARP 1/4 | eBay
That's great info. Do you know if anyone makes a cut-to-fit outer throttle cable jacket that'll attach to the throttle pedal brackets on these old Mopars?
 
If you mean where the cable goes into the firewall, sort of. I ended up using a Mancini extra long cable housing that has the flange that fits the firewall pretty decently.
Before that I machined a firewall-to-cable flange adapter that allowed me to use any outer cable I wanted. Trick but totally unnecessary.
Lemme see if I can find them...
 
Before that I machined a firewall-to-cable flange adapter that allowed me to use any outer cable I wanted.
That's a great idea. Then you can use any cable housing and shorten it as necessary. Just cut the firewall side to length and slip on the flange adapter. I'm gonna have to remember that.
 
Here they are

throttle cable ends.jpg
 
I had quite a search to find an outer cable that was the right length from firewall to holdown ferrule. good info guys, I will get into it & very much appreciated. RR EDIT I think the "cable knarp 1/4" to clamp the pedal end of the inner cable will work for me. I will cut the longer inner cable that I have down to size & clamp it with this clamp. I couldn't have solved this without you guys! RR
 
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Where on EARTH did you find an outer sheath without a cable?
 
the Ebay sheath arrived & it is only slightly shorter than mine, not sure how I measured wrong but I definitely did. I think now my option is to shorten the sheath at the pedal end. Any thoughts how I can lock the sheath back into the metal piece? glue and or pound the round metal piece to crimp the sheath in place solidly?. I wouldn't think it is under alot of stress, it pretty much just is a cover for the inner steel cable
 
Can you post a pic of what you're trying to do?

Return spring tension should hold it in place. Glue might get inside places you don't want it
 
I cant get this camera to connect to my new computer. what I'm thinking (at the moment it can change) is to cut the small ball at the pedal end then pull the inner steel cable out at the carb end then cut the sheath at the pedal end to the length I need then drill out to clean the sheath debris in that pedal metal fitting then superglue the corrected length sheath back into the metal piece then insert the inner cable at the carb end & shorten it at the pedal end as needed & clamp it with the cable knarp mini cable clamp(s) on the way from Ebay.
 
I cant get this camera to connect to my new computer. what I'm thinking (at the moment it can change) is to cut the small ball at the pedal end then pull the inner steel cable out at the carb end then cut the sheath at the pedal end to the length I need then drill out to clean the sheath debris in that pedal metal fitting then superglue the corrected length sheath back into the metal piece then insert the inner cable at the carb end & shorten it at the pedal end as needed & clamp it with the cable knarp mini cable clamp(s) on the way from Ebay.
I bet that'll work out just fine.
 
I cant even get the pic to show on the screen when I take it like it easily did on my last computer. I will keep after it. OK I will go with superglue (my only option is JB weld but it might be too thick to get it in there). thanks guys I (greatly) appreciate the help. this is a 63 dart stock car & my game plan is to come in way lighter than the chebby boys! (360/904/7&1/4 (welded spiders).
 
I cant even get the pic to show on the screen when I take it like it easily did on my last computer. I will keep after it. OK I will go with superglue (my only option is JB weld but it might be too thick to get it in there). thanks guys I (greatly) appreciate the help. this is a 63 dart stock car & my game plan is to come in way lighter than the chebby boys! (360/904/7&1/4 (welded spiders).
You will have your work cut out for you trying to get lighter than a chevy. My 360 mopar motor was heavier than my 350 chevy. I don't see any way around that and still be legal. I don't think a 904 would be lighter than a powerglide but I havent weighed a 904 with a converter to compare. Have you weighed your 904 wth a converter yet? You will have to try to make up for that in the chassis while still maintaining enough rear percentage.
Your 7 1/4" might be lighter than a 9" floater (you can run a floater now in the hobby stock class), but that might not be the best place to save weight or money. There is a lot riding on those little 7 1/4" axle flanges. Hopefully they will hold up for you.
Do you have any pictures of the car you can share? When you get your camera issues sorted out.
There is a good chance you will be the only 63 dart hobby stock on the race track. You will get a lot of "What kind of car is that ?" questions in the pits. Good luck
 
Oh OK, I assumed those chevelles/monte carlos we're heavy. I do already have a pic of it when the roll cage was welded in & if I can find/post it I will
 
Is there not a readily available stock replacement cable assembly that will fit your application ? Seems like what you're attempting would introduce additional potential failure points that could be avoided with an unmodified piece.
 
I would think a 64-66 A body V8 bracket/cable would bolt right in. A guy has one but it'd be $80 which I thought was high but he'd have to take it off of the car. It probably ain't going anywhere so I am going to try shortening mine & superglueing it & see how it holds!
 
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