Time For a rebuild

[Black 69 Dart]

That is why I set the torque wrench at 55 (30% of 77 is 54). The other hub went together at 55 no problem. Wilwood sent me short studs so these came out of my old Wilwood brakes so I am glad I did not use red loctite. Hope the new hub comes soon so I can get the car back on the ground. Thanks for the heads up on the torque specs for dry and wet torquing, its always good to share info, as joe said you learn something new everyday.

 

[Uhcoog1]

Just a quick question - are you sure those ex manifolds will clear the frame rails?

I was told they pretty much dump straight onto the rails.........

Those are the Jeep SRT8 manifolds, not the LX SRT8 manifolds. They are different, and they fit with minimal work with the AlterKtion.

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Long over due update, but have not had much time to work on the Dart as of late. Went on holidays and the wife and I are getting ready for our first child who is due in late august. Today I was able to get out and finish the brakes and get them on the car. I have a set of 14 inch and one 15 inch steel wheels that I tried to put on the car but neither fit. The 14's hit the caliper and the 15's hit on the rod ends of the rack. I was so wanting to put the car on the ground and see how it looked but I am T.B.T.S.I.L (To Bad, Tough ****, I Lose). So here are the pics.

Trevor

 

[Tincup]

If those are the 12.19" discs, your gonna need at least 17's

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Well I borrowed these from a friend to try them on and see how they look as I am thinking of buys a set myself. What do you all think?

 

[Rat Patrol]

I like em lots!

Always a fan of black race wheels......

 

[91r/t]

HOLY NEW PARTS!!!! NICEEE thats an awesome looking pile of goodies there

 

[Black 69 Dart]

ok did some more work today, decided it was a good time to mock the engine in the car and try the trans to it. engine went in without a hitch, slid the trans under the car and then with the floor jack started to put the trans in place. got it up and in but the engine and trans will not sit flush together. tried everything and the drivers side is 1/4 inch space and the passenger side touches. The dowels are in the holes and the bolt holes line up but no go. I will post some picks later. Has anyone had this problem? Next step is to pull it all out and try it on the ground and see if that helps.

Trevor

 

[Joe Dokes]

Did you assemble the engine and trans outside the car first?

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[Rat Patrol]

What trans are you running ? - I've gone through this thread and can't find where you mention it?

 

[Black 69 Dart]

No never tried it before I put it in, thought about it but went for it. Need to trim the steering column were it comes through the fire wall as it hits the head. Here are the pics,

 

[Rat Patrol]

Looks like an alignment issue - either the trans is not where it should be - or the mounts are skewed?

Which engine mount conversion kit did you use?

And I'll ask again - what trans is it?.......it may have some bearing on the problem.

 

[mo-cars]

Looks like a 727 to me .

Did you remove the pilot bush reducer thing from the rear of crank.

 

[Joe Dokes]

Another way is to drop the Alter-K-Tion, Mount the engine and trans to the Alter-K-Tion, and then lower the car over the engine and trans. Your engine hoist can easily lift the front of the car since there is not engine or suspension it is not that heavy. No engine transmission alignment issues to deal with, simply line up the four bolts for the K member than bolt in the trans cross member.

Obviously the above suggestion means taking apart a lot that you just put together. But with that motor being as tight as it is in the engine bay it might be the way to go.

Pull the steering column to make it even easier.

I "THINK" (only about 70% sure) you can even mount the headers to the motor before you drop it in.

Just some thoughts let us know how it goes.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Did not remove the pilot bushing as I did not know I had to. That would be the problem there I bet. I will remove the trans and engine, remove the pilot bushing and assemble them outside the car. then attempt to drop them in as a unit. the steering column is out of the car as I need to trim it. Thanks for the help will let everyone know how it goes..

Trevor

 

[Rat Patrol]

Looks like a 727 to me .

Did you remove the pilot bush reducer thing from the rear of crank.

That's where I was going -

Any suggestions on the best method of removal Mo-cars?

 

[Joe Dokes]

I've seen a thread in which they used a die grinder with a radial file to cut a groove in the pilot bushing. Once you CAREFULLY cut through bushing you can fairly easily removing the bushing.

I found the post Here:


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1366483&postcount=11

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[Rat Patrol]

That's useful info - I'll use a Dremel and slice and dice

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Ok help is needed!!! Had a good friend come over tonight and we pulled the trans and engine out. Yes pilot bushing is still in the crank but just mocking up the engine and trans on the floor they went together lickity split. We then put them in the car as a unit, was not to bad at to do really. Got the trans in place and on engine mount bolt half in, could not get the other side engine mount bolt in. Dropped the trans mount and removed it from the trans, lined up the mounts and slid the bolts through. Went back to the trans and it is out 1/2 inch. Trans will not slide over. Are the engine mounts different on the 5.7 and 6.1 on the alterktion?? Any help would be appreciated..

Trevor

 

[moparisbest]

Subscribed

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Pics

 

[mo-cars]

Ok here's what i'm thinking / guessing , those spool type mounts don't have much give so if theres a slight inaccuracy of the placement of the front mounts it could easily put you of that half inch way back at the trans mount.

I think I would try loosening the front mounts at the engine block then see if you can get the rear mount to line up , if it does you may need to do some tweaking on the front mounts , elongate holes , shims whatever.

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Talked to Bill this morning and he said to loosen the bolts from the mount to the engine and it should give enough room to move the trans into position. Mo-cars you suggested the same thing. So I loosened the bolts, lifted the engine a little and the trans, removed the trans mount from the car, bolted the mount back on the trans. Still had to pry the trans over 1/4 inch, put the trans mount bolts in. Dropped the engine down and tightened the engine mount bolts back up. Not sure I an 100% happy with still having to pry the trans over as I am not sure of it being under tension. The engine will be in and out a few times I am sure I may open the engine mount bolt holes a bit.

 

[Joe Dokes]

The reality is the tolerances for these cars is all over the map. To get a 1/4" at the trans you probably only need to elongate the bolt holes on the motor mounts a fraction of an inch. I'd try using a drill bit 1/32 larger on each hole of the motor mount and it will probably fit perfect.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

 

[Black 69 Dart]

Have not had much time as of late to get any work done on the car and when I did have the time I spent it changing a fuel pump on my Dakota R/T. I have the tank and old pump out and the new pump just need to put it all back together.
Since I have changed the front end I have to put new rims on the car as I had the sbp before. I had 5 lugs and needed 5 more and was having trouble finding ones that matched the 5 I had. Well today my wife was out and after 5 tire shops found some at NAPA. I was finally able to put the steel rims and scab tires I have on and set the car on the ground to see how it looked. And since I am 3 weeks away from having my first child I had a little fun with the baby's car seat before I put it in the Jeep.