Timing chain recommendation

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Flyinbrian72duster said:
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Flyinbrian72duster said:
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the black mark on distributor is #1 so directly across should be # 6 on compression, the # 6 with tdc locator, and where my dots line up
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RustyRatRod said:
You've been told which one. More than once. Any good name brand billet set. That means, one that doesn't cost much under 100 bucks and is probably more. If it's not the "billet race" set, that's not the right one.
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Yes sir I know I bought a cloyes I wasnt sure about tdc on compression I just posted a couple pics to verify I'm popping my timming chain cherry here
 
I'm confused. Are replacing only the chain?
 
At this point the worst that could happen is your a buck 80 out and thats an easy fix
 
I dont use that method, I put my finger over #1 plug hole, socket on crank bolt, rotate clockwise until you feel slight pressure(air)on finger. This is now compression. Put in piston stop in #1 cyl. Rotate slowly until tdc/piston stop has "peaked". Make a mark on harmonic balancer at "0" mark. Now leave everything as is and rotate counterclockwise. Until tdc/piston stop has "peaked" again. Mark the balancer at "0" mark. If you split the distance between these 2 marks, you now have TRUE tdc. Hope that helps.
 
Sorry I didnt mean to make things worse, it's just the way I do it. Yes you are on #6, as per the gears, but I dont see rotor?
I'll confuse things more...my brain ain't right, but a crank turns 2 revolutions per complete firing of all 8 cylinders. 2 revolutions is 720*. Well 720* divided by 8 cyl gives us 90*. So every 90*(or 1/4turn) of crankshaft gives you the next cylinder in the firing order(18436572) firing.
 
4spdragtop said:
Sorry I didnt mean to make things worse, it's just the way I do it. Yes you are on #6, as per the gears, but I dont see rotor?
I'll confuse things more...my brain ain't right, but a crank turns 2 revolutions per complete firing of all 8 cylinders. 2 revolutions is 720*. Well 720* divided by 8 cyl gives us 90*. So every 90*(or 1/4turn) of crankshaft gives you the next cylinder in the firing order(18436572) firing.
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4spdragtop said:
Sorry I didnt mean to make things worse, it's just the way I do it. Yes you are on #6, as per the gears, but I dont see rotor?
I'll confuse things more...my brain ain't right, but a crank turns 2 revolutions per complete firing of all 8 cylinders. 2 revolutions is 720*. Well 720* divided by 8 cyl gives us 90*. So every 90*(or 1/4turn) of crankshaft gives you the next cylinder in the firing order(18436572) firing.
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Yea I'm getting more confused
 
Yes everything leads to that being #6 tdc. I dont use EOIC method. Nothing wrong with it, but I use this chart.


MoparValvecard.jpg
 
Here is quote from Del, he knows his s**t and is more familiar with EOIC
67Dart273 said:
Another way is EOIC, which means

Bump the engine until the EXHAUST valve starts to OPEN and then adjust the intake on that cylinder

Bump the engine until the INTAKE valve has opened and is almost CLOSED and then adjust the exhaust on that cylinder

Comp Cams



Steve Morris Engines

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why are we mentioning setting valves
just dbl check that U are on compression either thumb on plug hole or watching the rockers and dbl check rotor and timing locations
most of the time you can just change the parts
but if something is messed up you can recover easier if you know where you were and it was correct
 
Hey guys. Lemme wake this thread up. I need a timing set for a warmed over Magnum 360 that is currently apart. I have a new, US made single row timing set laying around and will combine with a tensioner set-up. My only concern is that I will most likely have to advance my cam (regrind) and thinking
I will need a 3 way adjustable lower gear. If I cannot make that set-up work, I will pick another timing set. I have heard that double rollers don't play well with
the plastic block on the tensioner. Not sure about single rollers. I have also seen where installed double rollers alone still have slop.
Remember that I am looking to advance the cam. I have heard about but have no knowledge with offset keys to advance a cam. Other ways?
I hate to open a can of worms but what is the best route? This is a street driven only car.

Quality single chain and tensioner (offset key?)
Single roller with 3 way lower gear and tensioner.
Double roller with 3 way lower gear and no tensioner.

Thanks as always.
 
While I really like the sets with the Iwis chain ( I mostly use SA timing sets), I'm going to use a cheapo single row USED timing set that has been used for about 20 minutes. Yes... I'm that cheap. Single row timing sets work fine but double row sets with fancy sprockets sell better.

The $90-100 I save will buy one headgasket!
 
JoePole1 said:
What about adding a tensioner to your single row Krooser? Only about $35 and has built in oil slinger.
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I have a couple in stock and that's my plan. I bought a hardware kit, too and it includes the drip tab.
 
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I know it’s over kill for this but .... roll master vernier type. I see I was late to this party. Never mind .

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I should mention that the late, great Pro Stock racer Bill Grumpy Jenkins used stock SBC timing sets in his engines...complete with the aluminum top sprocket and the nylon gears. Liked them because that deal gave off the least harmonics to the valve train!!!

How do you argue with that thinking?
 
Krooser said:
I should mention that the late, great Pro Stock racer Bill Grumpy Jenkins used stock SBC timing sets in his engines...complete with the aluminum top sprocket and the nylon gears. Liked them because that deal gave off the least harmonics to the valve train!!!

How do you argue with that thinking?
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I think that story is fulla crap. That's how I argue with it.
 
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