Timing chain recommendation

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Another +1 for an IWIS chain, ive got a cs5000 rollmaster going into my turbo motor. Billet gears 9 way adjustable in 2 degree increments.
 
What Krooser and the above post said
find a set with a IWIS chain is the best...
Iwis chain the rest of the set will also be premium
 
....and the actual "need" for a high dollar chain you might think is not there, but in terms of keeping timing stable for a very long time, you get what you pay for.

On my 225 build, I am wanting to explore modifying a big block gear drive. We'll see how that goes. It's been done before. I've read it's an easy mod but have not seen any pictures. Although it's down the road a piece, when I do mine, I'll do a good write up on it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
....and the actual "need" for a high dollar chain you might think is not there, but in terms of keeping timing stable for a very long time, you get what you pay for.

On my 225 build, I am wanting to explore modifying a big block gear drive. We'll see how that goes. It's been done before. I've read it's an easy mod but have not seen any pictures. Although it's down the road a piece, when I do mine, I'll do a good write up on it.
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Long ago I was told to make a double roller timing chain setup for a slant six that you use the gears from a big block and the chain from a small block. But I have never tried it.
 
Jadaharabi said:
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Long ago I was told to make a double roller timing chain setup for a slant six that you use the gears from a big block and the chain from a small block. But I have never tried it.
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I have heard and read they use something the same too but I can never remember what it is. I plan to find out. lol
 
I got the double roller set by engine tech. I can't speak of its quality yet because I have not ran it. But out of the box it looks like any other timing set and for 22 bucks (I think it 31 shipped) from rock auto its alot cheaper than most double rollers

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dartfreak75 said:
I got the double roller set by engine tech. I can't speak of its quality yet because I have not ran it. But out of the box it looks like any other timing set and for 22 bucks (I think it 31 shipped) from rock auto its alot cheaper than most double rollers

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It'll be loose after you turn the engine over by hand. lol
 
dartfreak75 said:
Damn I hope not. Lol your probably right tho. Everything else "budget" I have bought has turned to **** so that won't be any different. Haha
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IF you get at all Concerned, look around for a 'Rolon' Manufacture Chain: True Roller & only 3% less stretch & stress test back to back to Iwis & far cheaper - JP use the Rolons Std, you Want: DR (double Row) then the number of links as the Suffix (SR if your Enginetechs gears are single row)
Seeing there's so many X-spurts.

Short of Changing the Cam, Slip in a 2-4° Mr Gasket offset Crank-key in the advanced position on fitting the Crank gear (& new seal in front cover) help wake up that 318.
Goodluck. T
PS just noticed you bought the D/row Engtech set probably be an Asian Chain (.. Look on the side of a link: Taiwanese, they're ok) But I wouldn't worry, unless overly sloppy & that takes experienced hand, but Follow above IF you want some extra insurance: any nos chain with " USA Made" on link or Rolon & rest assured.

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Rulon also a resonable choice
let's face it
there are many "roller" designs
some simple "pin and roller" and some with a bushing, etc some have the bushing split, some tubular , large pin, small pin
etc
 
Wyrmrider said:
Rulon also a resonable choice
let's face it
there are many "roller" designs
some simple "pin and roller" and some with a bushing, etc some have the bushing split, some tubular , large pin, small pin
etc
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Yes, but you don't want to confuse the man (or others) with TMI..at the bottom end of the price range your probably going to get a solid pin .200" dia "+ roller".. So what I suggested as said will/would add extra measure of peace-of-mind without getting into Hassels or over budget, etc for his engtechs' gears.
Start mentioning split etc rollers to the layman & you'll loose 'em/confuse 'em..
As an aside JP AUST do (or Did) a Very well priced econo 3 keyway SB T/Set & Same for the /6 170-225 (induction hardened crank gear, Rolon chain etc) when compared in price to the equiv Cloyes True Roller sets [generally].
Cheers T.

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my point exactly too many variables for a non engineer
so buy a set with one of the names mentioned or get a melling, cloyes etc
for example cloyes makes a gear set for the racing Iron duke pontiac with a iron or steel cam gear instead of aluminum or fiber- which get destroyed with the shaking 4 banger
This gear set also works on a chevy 194-292 chevy 6- which I run
good engineers solving a real problem
remember all chain designs do not interchange with all gears- they gotta match if you are just getting a new chain
what does everyone think of the tensioners/ idlers for the SBM?
 
Wyrmrider said:
my point exactly too many variables for a non engineer
so buy a set with one of the names mentioned or get a melling, cloyes etc
for example cloyes makes a gear set for the racing Iron duke pontiac with a iron or steel cam gear instead of aluminum or fiber- which get destroyed with the shaking 4 banger
This gear set also works on a chevy 194-292 chevy 6- which I run
good engineers solving a real problem
remember all chain designs do not interchange with all gears- they gotta match if you are just getting a new chain
what does everyone think of the tensioners/ idlers for the SBM?
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Which is WHY I said "Rolon" brand for his Enginetechs set: as I Know both mate up & Still Economic to buy with quality..I think you are starting to loose the buyers (& my) point if you start saying buy Cloyes etc when wanting to upgrade from the 'link-belt' type Std sets to a low cost set of Sprockets...there can be quite a chunk of $ difference, remember he said only cost $21 odd.
Yes re fibre gears: that problem has been around since Flathead ford days, as shown as a cure for the lower box in my pic above for 1 ...
Cheers T.
 
So he should order a timing chain set from Australia?
I think the OP has had enuf of this thread lol...good info but I dont blame him.
high.rev.trev said:
Yes, but you don't want to confuse the man (or others) with TMI..at the bottom end of the price range your probably going to get a solid pin .200" dia "+ roller".. So what I suggested as said will/would add extra measure of peace-of-mind without getting into Hassels or over budget, etc for his engtechs' gears.
Start mentioning split etc rollers to the layman & you'll loose 'em/confuse 'em..
As an aside JP AUST do (or Did) a Very well priced econo 3 keyway SB T/Set & Same for the /6 170-225 (induction hardened crank gear, Rolon chain etc) when compared in price to the equiv Cloyes True Roller sets [generally].
Cheers T.

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4spdragtop said:
So he should order a timing chain set from Australia?
I think the OP has had enuf of this thread lol...good info but I dont blame him.
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Well, Your suggestion, not mine, although both Australian origin JP & Crow: Can be sourced Stateside, Like my Business Colleagues Peter of ProComp, Prior SPEEDMASTER, prior USA Imports, Originated from Sydney's Australia Western Suburbs way, Before he branched out into USA & Opening a Chinese Foundery, Machine Shop & factory, to keep the costs down (& I go back as far as his sons were running around in short pants & roller rockers were just samples in our hands, Same for the 2 only inlet Manifolds ( 308 Holden V8 & 351C 2V Single Plane ) I'm sorry but I Can't make apologies for being there & done that, knowing & involved with most worth knowing over time, JUST to fit in with the in-crowd. Picking up the tone....
Like I've always said only ' write & here to point others in right direction, I cut trails, I don't FOLLOW them.(That's how we, NZ build America's Cup winning boats, Repeatedly).
Cheers T.
PS & while your on the Subject You'll be hard pressed to find a better Engineer than Laurie whom owns JP & $-$ they with exch rate way undercut Cloyes true-rollers especially multi/vernier keyway sets. Blindly paying the highest $ doesn't always = best. Like a Rebuilt Carb.
Old Saying:" You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink"
Cheers Cobber :)

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better read up on the procedure
b4 you remove the old chain get to tdc on the COMPRESSION STROKE and check the pointer and see where the timing marks are then after you have the cam gear off see where the locating pin is
pull it apart and things get moved then it's much more work
 
Wyrmrider said:
better read up on the procedure
b4 you remove the old chain get to tdc on the COMPRESSION STROKE and check the pointer and see where the timing marks are then after you have the cam gear off see where the locating pin is
pull it apart and things get moved then it's much more work
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Flyinbrian72duster said:
Na I'm still here lol prbly gonna use the cloyes but which one lol
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You've been told which one. More than once. Any good name brand billet set. That means, one that doesn't cost much under 100 bucks and is probably more. If it's not the "billet race" set, that's not the right one.
 
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