Toluene Dart - '73 swinger

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I’m wondering here what was the oiling bolt hole size and what did you go to?
Also, your shift RPMs?
oiling bolt was the stock 5/16-18, drilled with a 1/16th bit. Lots of oil pumps through. Also have hollow pushrods and the lifters feed oil as well (although kinda pointless since it just stops at the adjuster). Shift rpm 6000-6500(when racing) haven't shifted higher.

These are all the stock sized bolts. Pulled the thread inserts right on out which allowed the hardened shaft to flex.. and snapp a roo.
 
oiling bolt was the stock 5/16-18, drilled with a 1/16th bit. Lots of oil pumps through. Also have hollow pushrods and the lifters feed oil as well (although kinda pointless since it just stops at the adjuster). Shift rpm 6000-6500(when racing) haven't shifted higher.

These are all the stock sized bolts. Pulled the thread inserts right on out which allowed the hardened shaft to flex.. and snapp a roo.
A
Thanks. Round two...LOL
Again with the questions....
What is the spring rate?
 
A
Thanks. Round two...LOL
Again with the questions....
What is the spring rate?
I used k-motion k-800 springs 471 or 491 something in that realm. Probably a little light for the solid roller. But the chart showed about 190@ 1.800 491 open.
 
Roger that. I ran with the manufacturers recommendation. (Lunati roller cam and spring, 73117 dual spring) 1.800 @ 200lbs., 1.100 @ 596lbs, 1.050 coil bind. 249/255 - .608/.624/. lift after lash w/1.6 rockers.
 
Roger that. I ran with the manufacturers recommendation. (Lunati roller cam and spring, 73117 dual spring) 1.800 @ 200lbs., 1.100 @ 596lbs, 1.050 coil bind. 249/255 - .608/.624/. lift after lash w/1.6 rockers.
howards didn't give a recommended spring. But Being as I'm gonna go with trickflow heads I'll have the room to fit a larger spring. Hopefully a larger selection.
 
Yes yes, larger springs! Ha ha ha....

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I'm spoiled, it's nice working a couple blocks away from Summit Racing. They only had one head in stock, need to wait for the other to show up.

But.. Good news.. my Comp Cams Ultra Pro rockers are setup for pushrod oiling.. no special mods needed to replace the other heads. bitchen'
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It's together... it lives.. Took a few days and multiple head removals and oil pan removals to get everything situated. Learned that the baffled oil pan doesn't completely drain out, So if any water gets in at all, I have to remove the oil pan to clean it out or it gets stuck between the baffled area's and doesn't drain. But it's done, added a new rear main seal, cometic .051 head gaskets w/ the trickflow 190's.
Puts my compression at about 12.2:1. Sounds good, runs smooth no weird noises. I think we're good for now. (i'm sick of spending money).
Updated engine combo
Magnum block
Scat 4" crank
Scat rods
Icon IC744 pistons @ .009 above deck (gapped for giggle juice)
Trickflow 190 Heads w/ Solid roller springs
Howards Solid Roller .640/.645 257/267@.050 108/104
Comp 8043-16 lifters - allow pushrod oiling
Comp 1622-16 rockers - allow pushrod oiling
Edelbrock Super Vic
Quickfuel Brawler 950
Transmission/rear combo
Hughes Transmissions 904 FMVB
Dynamic 9" converter 4200-4500ish flash
Dr Diff 8 3/4 w/ 4.30 sure grip
255/60/15 MT ET Street R

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After some pushrod issues, I got everything sorted. Engine runs smooth, no ticking, no leaking... ******* mint.
The woman found a gas station with pump 100 octane, so she took 2 of my cans with her to work and filled 'em up for me. Damn does this thing run sooo much smoother with 100 octane, it is a NOTICEABLE difference.
I also hit the first track day with the new trickflows...
previous runs with the other cnc'd chinesium heads I would run through the traps at 6500rpm. Best run with those heads before everything went to hell, 11.86@112.5 and a bunch of 12.1's@110ish all at about 4500ft DA.
First run off the trailer, barely warm, 1st and 2nd shifted at 5500.. 3rd ran through the traps at a screamin 7000rpm now 11.77@114 @5900DA Both of these runs are against my buddy with a 765whp mustang stick car.
Second run, shift light set to 6500, engine warm, Launched at about 2500rpm, hooked so hard it threw me back and literally tore the seat bolt and washer through the floor. Which caused me to shift super early into second, but I kept it matted and shifted 2nd at 6500 and ran it out, still ran 11.83@114 @5900DA.

The broken seat ended my night. Easy fix with my welder and some metal plates.
 
Funny story, I guess I've only been getting about 80%ish throttle for a long time now. I don't think it will really make that much of a difference at the track. But at least now it's fully open when punched.
 
Went back to the track about a week ago. Had a whopping 8,000ft DA. Gotta love summer. Most of the little problems seem to be worked out. Except I keep throwing alternator belts, hopefully I got it sorted.

 
How are the new heads working?
They're working. DA went up.. and the car went quicker. lol.
I do keep hearing a slight ticking and it sounds like the rockers, I know solid rollers have a little noise. But i've pulled the valve covers over a dozen times to check the rockers and lash and everything seems fine. Maybe I finally punched a hole in my headers.
 
Never good when you hear a noise. Tow it home and start exploring to find this
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yep.. Something wasn't lined up. All the bolts were tight, but I could see just a sliver of light at one end of the bellhousing. Needless to say when I put the new plate in yesterday I made damn sure it was seated.
 
Friday the 13th. 775 import vs domestic race, 2 classes "run what ya bring" and 11.50 index. Without the nitrous rwyb class was a little too fast for me. So I stuck it to the 11.50. first event at a real track where I've won.
Tires functioned, hooked far more consistently than the radials, even when they spun I didn't have to abort the run.
10:25 is my first round run up close.

This was the final, me vs a crotch rocket

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