I'm certain that MSD unit will do the job perfect, but if you're like I am and like to mess with stuff and make unconventional things work, the vacuum advance would be something to fuss with for sure. lol
TorqStorm Supercharger build advice needed
- Thread starter Jerry Miller
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Well, quick math says 4.56's w/35's~=3.82's w/29's, with a curb weight~3900#. IF He's not pulling a trailer, IF He doesn't decide He wants more & tosses a smaller pulley on the compressor, IF He doesn't stray far from Home & get a load of bad fuel, IF IF IF..... I'd still use forged slugs starting from scratch...
I agree! All those "IFS" are also why I suggested the lower compression.
Jerry Miller
Active Member
Thinking about running the Holley Sniper fuel injection that is meant for the Jeep 258. This will take care of a lot of the worries, I think. We were planning to mod a Holley 500cfm 2bbl and do the mechanical pump with a boost reference line to the vent hole, but I think I am going to see if he wants to just EFI it. Between the EFI monitoring fuel ratio and the MSD ignition, we "should" be pretty safe I would think. However, does anyone offer a decent forged piston that isn't crazy in price?
Jerry
Jerry
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I think the fuel injection is the best way to go.
I am not aware of a "stock" forged replacement piston for the slant. I used to use the old TRW L2125F or Sealed Power 1941PX, but they have been long discontinued. I still have a set of .040 and .060 on hand, but they are for my engines. The .040 for my turbo 170, and the .060 for a nitrous motor.
I am not aware of a "stock" forged replacement piston for the slant. I used to use the old TRW L2125F or Sealed Power 1941PX, but they have been long discontinued. I still have a set of .040 and .060 on hand, but they are for my engines. The .040 for my turbo 170, and the .060 for a nitrous motor.
The only thing I can think of is calling Wiseco. Since they offer the piston for the 198 rod conversion, they'll make a forged stock replacement, I'm sure. But as you elude to, they won't be cheap.
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vitamindart
Well-Known Member
Rusty if you were closer I would drive over and take ya for a spin. finally getting this thing together makes me want to kick myself for not boosting a slant when I first cooked up this idea....... even 5-6psi on my slant is a Total Blast
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Rug_Trucker
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Running boost you need to open up your standard ring gap. Ever consider going turbo?
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
You and your son may want to check David Vizzard's Powertec 10 youtube video on running 17:1 compression on 87 fuel and run lean.
With boost that CR is not in the cards, but you could mill the deck say 0.050". The thing to run the 87 fuel and lean is H2O and more timing advance as the water injected will slow the combustion a bunch. While tuning, careful attention for detonation must be kept.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
You and your son may want to check David Vizzard's Powertec 10 youtube video on running 17:1 compression on 87 fuel and run lean.
With boost that CR is not in the cards, but you could mill the deck say 0.050". The thing to run the 87 fuel and lean is H2O and more timing advance as the water injected will slow the combustion a bunch. While tuning, careful attention for detonation must be kept.
With the intent to run a supercharger, the volume of exhaust gases goes up quickly. With that in mind, I would seriously consider increasing the exhaust valve diameter and grinding the exhaust valve and seats for 40°. This aids low lift blow down.
A thought. You could possibly get the EFI and all the parts off a salvage yard GM 3800 Series 2 SC engine and adapt them. Displacement is close so tuning should be fairly strait forward. This would make fuel management better. To run the water injection as DV describes, you would use 50% of the duty cycle read off the fuel injector duty cycle with the same size injectors. This keeps the exhaust valves cool as the combustion is cool. One thing to remember is that water expands 1600X in the phase change from liquid to gaseous state. This can greatly enhance the push on the piston during the power stroke. As DV states, 2% water soluable oil in the water would prevent corrosion and lube the injectors.
Just something to consider.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
If I understand correctly, now the short block is being rebuilt. With that in mind I would talk to TotalSeal piston rings and discuss the build. For supercharged applications you definately want to open up the ring gaps. If they butt up under boost heat, your day falls into the outhouse basement real fast. With TotalSeal you could run gas ported top rings and gapless second rings to keep combustion gases in the cylinder rather than the crankcase. They manufacture gas ported gapless rings down to 1mm which is about 0.040". To make use of this friction reducing technology, custom pistons would be required. The piston and ring costs would be up a bunch.
Sounds like with restoration of the body your son intends to keep the truck so money spent now is more money saved later.
One thing I have learned being around the street rrod community is to sit back and look at other vehicles and determine what you like. Determine the engine and transmission. Formulate a plan and then stick to it. I have seen a number of people see something after completing most of their build and decide to change theirs. One thing if it is their labor but if a shop is doing the work, redoing something is real expensive.
It is like building a house. Changes to a stock plan while in the planning stage is minimal cost, but a change order once the basement is dug gets expensive, even if they have not gotten to that stage where the change is involved.
So now is the time to sit back with your son and plan this out. A week or two thinking and planning now will save time and money later.
Jerry Miller
Active Member
So, let me run a different scenario. I hat if he built a 9 to 9.5:1 engine, decent cam and Holley Sniper. Power wise how would that compare to a 8:1 engine running 6 pounds of boost? Just curious as I’m trying to keep the cab of worms we have to open to only a medium sized can LOL
Jerry Miller
Active Member
For clarification I mean a normally aspirated 9.5:1 motor vs a supercharged 8:1 motor
Rug_Trucker
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4.0 TBI is a good candidate off a jeep.
Blowers eat fuel and horsepower. Turbo is an easy fit in a truck. 3.8 Buicks pick up 2mpg with the blower belt off.
Blowers eat fuel and horsepower. Turbo is an easy fit in a truck. 3.8 Buicks pick up 2mpg with the blower belt off.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Well, back in about 61 and compact cars were coming on strong NASCAR decided to try a compact class. Ford showed up with 140 cube 6 cylinder water heaters in Falcons and the General brought out the 144 cube air heaters. The Mopar guys put the marine Hyper pac on a 170 cube Valiant.10.5:1 pistons, split header, a hotter ca than the Hyperpac came with, the 4 barrel long intake manifold and a bit larger 4V carb. Those Valiants that were not what could be called aerodynamic by a long shot were lapping Daytona at 128MPH. I expect the factory engineers did some magic work on the heads to aid performance. That compact class series only lasted one season as those little slants cleaned up, winning the first 7 or 8 places in every race. I don't think the General had the 4 1V carb engines for the Corvair yet, and the Ford water heaters had the cast in intake for a little 1V carb.
I still recommend watching the DV 17:1 Youtube video. You and your son could build that engine with 9:1 CR and run 87 octane fuel with the water injection DV mentions. A little bit of boost wakes an engine up big time, and that blower would provide a nice linear power curve.
To keep costs down, get the EFI off a GM 3800 Series 2. If you boost the engine look for the supercharged engine to grab the controls from. You may (probably) need to get the crank pulley/damper to get the ignition trigger off. For a throttle body, grab one off a throttle body injected 5.7 V8 and remove the injectors or use the injectors to spray the water.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
If you get the pistons made, consider calling Totalseal Piston rings regarding a recommendation by them on the rings before ordering the pistons. Do the research up front. Narrower modern rings create lower friction and wear. When ordering the pistons you will need to be able to tell them the rings you are going to use, the ring width and the required ring groove depth. Then you may be able to get the ring grooves hard anodized for durability and an anti wear skirt coating.
DSS may make pistons with their patented X grooves that spread oil from the oil ring across the piston skirt to reduce friction and wear. With the correct cam for a blower application I could see 275 to 300HP and reliable.
Coming soon to a closed chamber cylinder head near you....
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
A 9:1 slant will be down 70-100 hp over a 8:1 slant on 6-8 psi.
Lots of over thinking goin on. Build a slant, put on blower, put on sniper, pump it full of 91 octane, hit gas, smile ear to ear.
Jerry Miller
Active Member
Thank you for the numbers. I agree, I’m getting hung up on a lot of details that won’t matter. I do have one small issue though. Looks like the torque storm is designed to run without powersteering. I saw this over on slantsix. One guy had a work around but not sure how well it worked. We can’t nix the ps
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
There is electric power steering kits and it’s becoming more popular in the hot rod world and easy to adapt. I’m doing it on my falcon.
Can't nix power steering? On a LIGHT A body?
3900# 4WD truck,......
Well I go along with that then. lol
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