Torque converter bolts?..

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I could have sent you some by now. I have a more than I can stand laying around
 
It seems as that Amazon link has everybody pissed off because they say set and it's actually only one...
Huh?
"...Product description
Includes four bolts to attach torque converter to the flex plate."
 
I matched the torque converter plate on the torque converter before I installed it and spray painted one whole area on the plate and the torque converter so I could line them up...
OK
So do you have 5/16 or 7/16 holes in the flex plate?
 
If he has the B&M flexplate he has both.

Jpar if you still need some I have a container full ( never toss a fastener)
and I am close so shipping ahould be quick.
 
Agree with a hardware store grade eight purchase. Probably cost less than the shipping on anything you order. If the heads are too thick and hit the block....... you do have a bench grinder don't you?
 
If he has the B&M flexplate he has both.

Jpar if you still need some I have a container full ( never toss a fastener)
and I am close so shipping ahould be quick.
You guys are totally awesome!!!.. I found a local parts store that has a set I'm just going to pick up this morning...
Thank you so kindly for the offer again the people out here are awesome...
 
Agree with a hardware store grade eight purchase. Probably cost less than the shipping on anything you order. If the heads are too thick and hit the block....... you do have a bench grinder don't you?
Yes that one crossed my mind as well.. I was thinking go to the hardware store and buy some grade eight bolts and just grind the heads a little bit.. but again for under 10 bucks I can just pick up a set at the parts store here when they open..
 
Having just dealt with all of this I can tell you that the B&M 10230 internal balanced flexplate has two different diameter bolt patterns for 5/16" bolts and the smaller diameter for the

7/16" bolts. However the converter I bought has 3/8" bolts so I had to drill the 5/16" smaller diameter pattern on the flexplate up for 3/8" bolts.

I will note that the flexplate came without ever being deburred. I was a real joke for a $150 flexplate. It's all deburred now, but it should have been done before they plated it.

Since my convertor had 3/8" bolts there were no off the shelf ARP option for torque converter bolts. So ended up buying two packages of Chevy bolts and cutting the length down.

Extra money and extra time, but they fit nice now.


Note to the guys that say go to the hardware store and buy Grade 8 bolts have probably never measured the bolt head to back of the oil pan rail, or the cam boss supports on the rear

of the block for clearance. ARP bolts have a .200" thick head on them. With the B&M flexplate bolted to the crankshaft and the ARP convertor bolts bolted to the flexplate there is

.085" clearance from the bolt head to the block/ cam boss supports. Most hardware store bolt heads are at least .300" thick, so this is an area that you need to pay attention to when

assembling your combination of parts, or nasty things can and will happen.

Tom


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Having just dealt with all of this I can tell you that the B&M 10230 internal balanced flexplate has two different diameter bolt patterns for 5/16" bolts and the smaller diameter for the

7/16" bolts. However the converter I bought has 3/8" bolts so I had to drill the 5/16" smaller diameter pattern on the flexplate up for 3/8" bolts.

I will note that the flexplate came without ever being deburred. I was a real joke for a $150 flexplate. It's all deburred now, but it should have been done before they plated it.

Since my convertor had 3/8" bolts there were no off the shelf ARP option for torque converter bolts. So ended up buying two packages of Chevy bolts and cutting the length down.

Extra money and extra time, but they fit nice now.


Note to the guys that say go to the hardware store and buy Grade 8 bolts have probably never measured the bolt head to back of the oil pan rail, or the cam boss supports on the rear

of the block for clearance. ARP bolts have a .200" thick head on them. With the B&M flexplate bolted to the crankshaft and the ARP convertor bolts bolted to the flexplate there is

.085" clearance from the bolt head to the block/ cam boss supports. Most hardware store bolt heads are at least .300" thick, so this is an area that you need to pay attention to when

assembling your combination of parts, or nasty things can and will happen.

Tom


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That's smart. How did you fixture those in the lathe?
 
There are two transmission parts distributors in Portland Oregon. Portland Transmission Warehouse, and Transtar. Both of these outfits SHOULD have the thin head NON hemi converter to flex plate bolts, as they both sell converters. I don't know if you actually have a converter rebuilding facility in Portland, but if there is, they'll have the bolts. I'd be very surprised if these bolts were non obtainable in your area.
 
That's smart. How did you fixture those in the lathe?

I used a 5/8" collet and had a back stop inside the collet. That way I could shove the bolt head in and close the collet with repeatability every time.

Touched off the parting tool at the end of the bolt and set X zero. Backed the carriage out and stepped over .118" for the parting tool and another .190" for the length reduction.

Sad part was I had cut them off with the intention of using the .065" washers that came with them under the bolt heads, but that ended up not working out clearance wise.

I could of used them without cutting them again, but it bothered me, so I just cut another .075" off.

Tom
 
I used a 5/8" collet and had a back stop inside the collet. That way I could shove the bolt head in and close the collet with repeatability every time.

Touched off the parting tool at the end of the bolt and set X zero. Backed the carriage out and stepped over .118" for the parting tool and another .190" for the length reduction.

Sad part was I had cut them off with the intention of using the .065" washers that came with them under the bolt heads, but that ended up not working out clearance wise.

I could of used them without cutting them again, but it bothered me, so I just cut another .075" off.

Tom
Gotcha! So the collect clamped on the head then? I would think be unstable. Or did the backstop stay in the collet keeping it firm while being cut? Unless I'm not thinking about it correctly. As a disclaimer - I'm a total lathe newbie and am always interested in learning ways to use a lathe.
 
Gotcha! So the collect clamped on the head then? I would think be unstable. Or did the backstop stay in the collet keeping it firm while being cut? Unless I'm not thinking about it correctly. As a disclaimer - I'm a total lathe newbie and am always interested in learning ways to use a lathe.

That lathe has a hydraulic chuck on it. So long as you have the head of the bolt against the backstop it will clamp around the head of the 12-pt. just fine.

The backstop is bolted into the chuck, threaded rod with two jam nuts and just adjust it out to get it in an area you like.

Sometimes I use the EDM and cut a shape into a collet to hold an odd shaped part, or make a collet out of aluminum to hold something.

The possibilities are only limited by ones imagination.

Tom
 
I just went and checked my new "Boss Hog" Converter. The threads are 7/16x20, and the heads are .192 head thickness. ARP 5/16x24 bolt heads are the same thickness.
I cleaned up the heads , and base of the Boss Hog bolts. They came with the converter.

Dave
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44 Posts on flex plate to converter mounting bolts? Wow!! Maybe I should make a phone call and see how many I can get and then sell these "extremely rare" bolts.:thumbsup:
 
Laugh as you may, but this is an area that you need to pay attention to. Just as there always critical areas you have to pay attention to on anything mechanical.

If it takes 44 post to get peoples attention and get the correct bolts installed then so be it. There is not a lot of clearance available back there and nasty things will happen if you use bolts

with to tall of a head. In my case I've never seen a Mopar convertor made with 3/8"-24 holes. After thinking about this I am almost ready to say that someone tapped them up from

5/16". It's the only logical thing I can come up with. I had considered tapping them to 7/16", but didn't feel there was adequate material thickness left so I had to machine the ARP

Chevy torque converter bolts down to work in my situation. When you take on a car project you do a lot of things that you never expect to do when you started.

Tom
 
That lathe has a hydraulic chuck on it. So long as you have the head of the bolt against the backstop it will clamp around the head of the 12-pt. just fine.

The backstop is bolted into the chuck, threaded rod with two jam nuts and just adjust it out to get it in an area you like.

Sometimes I use the EDM and cut a shape into a collet to hold an odd shaped part, or make a collet out of aluminum to hold something.

The possibilities are only limited by ones imagination.

Tom
I have much respect for you fellers that can do most anything with a lathe.
 
44 Posts on flex plate to converter mounting bolts? Wow!! Maybe I should make a phone call and see how many I can get and then sell these "extremely rare" bolts.:thumbsup:
See what happens when you use the wrong fasteners in that area. It ain't purdy.
 
Laugh as you may, but this is an area that you need to pay attention to. Just as there always critical areas you have to pay attention to on anything mechanical.

If it takes 44 post to get peoples attention and get the correct bolts installed then so be it. There is not a lot of clearance available back there and nasty things will happen if you use bolts

with to tall of a head. In my case I've never seen a Mopar convertor made with 3/8"-24 holes. After thinking about this I am almost ready to say that someone tapped them up from

5/16". It's the only logical thing I can come up with. I had considered tapping them to 7/16", but didn't feel there was adequate material thickness left so I had to machine the ARP

Chevy torque converter bolts down to work in my situation. When you take on a car project you do a lot of things that you never expect to do when you started.

Tom
Yeah. It's called good old fashioned hot roddin.
 
We shouldn't clown around. Somebody will take us serious and do it that way. LMAO
You say that, but we used to have a tech at the Toyotee dealer where I worked years ago that was terrible about cross threading nuts and bolts. We just told him that was his form of locktite. LOL He was a young kid, maybe 19 at the most and still learning. Believe it or not. He was the lead tech (and a damn good one) at the local Chevy dealer for several years. Now he's the lead tech at a somewhat local Chrysler dealer. He turned out to be a good one.
 
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