Torque converter issue?

-
ratty dart 340

ratty dart 340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
239
Reaction score
92
Location
Colorado
Hey there everyone. Been tackling a pretty tough issue here for a long time. I have a 73 dart sport, original 340 car. Now has a 1971 360 in it. I have been battling a weird issue to where the car would only start if the door was open. I somewhat fixed that, but now driving it is a complicated issue.

This is what happens:

the car starts, runs and idles just fine, but when you go to change gears(automatic) it wants to stall, and starts running very poorly. The linkage seems to be off because when the car is in park, the orange indicate show it about halfway to wear it should be( park is not lined up with park on the steering column. I don’t know if this could contribute to the problem, or if it has to do with tranny, and or torque converter. Or maybe the neutral safety switch is bad and sending mixed signals on what gear it should be in and when. Another interesting thing to note, is that the car can be started in practically any gear. Also, sometimes when I got it to drive, it would stall while driving, but not because of the engine. Also it would sometimes lerch into gear when stopped.

I would greatly appreciate any help, thanks
 
You may have more than one issue to fix.

As for the odd line up of the gears, my first thought is that the linkage from the trans to the column linkage is worn or loose. That should be easy to find & fix.
 
Seat Belt no start saftey switch? Over on the left inner fender by the hood hinge area.

We eliminated that bad boy on a 74 Dart Swinger.

Instructions online on how to do it.
 
George Jets said:
Seat Belt no start saftey switch? Over on the left inner fender by the hood hinge area.

We eliminated that bad boy on a 74 Dart Swinger.

Instructions online on how to do it.
Click to expand...
No safety switch. There is a wire that’s shorted somewhere, the heads up to the steering column but for now it starts up and idles fine every time. Just go to put it in drive and it usually dies.
 
Bewy said:
You may have more than one issue to fix.

As for the odd line up of the gears, my first thought is that the linkage from the trans to the column linkage is worn or loose. That should be easy to find & fix.
Click to expand...
Okay that was one of my first thoughts. Would be cool if that adjustment and maybe the neutral safety switch fixed it, but I think torque converter might be the culprit.
 
Pop in a new neutral saftey switch as you do not want it to be able to start in any gear, that is dangerous.

Then go down to the trans shift lever on trans with the linkage diconnected and put that in Park. Then have someone up top put the Selector on Park so it lines up, then you underneath adjust the linkage so it drops into the park lever.

Make sure you have the proper sized ends on the linkage rods to fit well into the shift arms so it is not slopping around.
 
George Jets said:
Pop in a new neutral saftey switch as you do not want it to be able to start in any gear, that is dangerous.

Then go down to the trans shift lever on trans with the linkage diconnected and put that in Park. Then have someone up top put the Selector on Park so it lines up, then you underneath adjust the linkage so it drops into the park lever.

Make sure you have the proper sized ends on the linkage rods to fit well into the shift arms so it is not slopping around.
Click to expand...
Alright sounds good. I will do some testing tomorrow.

Could electrical play into this at all?
 
Just want to put this out there.Torque converter may be going bad. I had one that the converter stater locked up and the car would stall when putting it in gear.You could drive it with one foot on the gas the other on the brake and pop it in neutral but it got to the point that it was locked solid.
This is the worst case. Sounds like you have other issues with the linkage along with electrical.
I just wanted to address the Torque Converter.
 
Darter6 said:
Just want to put this out there.Torque converter may be going bad. I had one that the converter stater locked up and the car would stall when putting it in gear.You could drive it with one foot on the gas the other on the brake and pop it in neutral but it got to the point that it was locked solid.
This is the worst case. Sounds like you have other issues with the linkage along with electrical.
I just wanted to address the Torque Converter.
Click to expand...
Yes and there have have been a couple other super small things that keep hinting towards it being Torque converter. It was raced pretty hard, then sat in a field for 20 years.
If it does come to it, how would I go about replacing, and finding one that would work for my drivetrain?
 
727 or 904 Torque Flight? Either the converters (Stock) are in the $300 range.
You may find a local tranny shop,or even Jegs or Summit if you can't find local.
At one time Jegs had 25-2800 stall speed 727 converters (Jegs brand)for $300-$400.
Haven't looked for awhile.
 
Darter6 said:
727 or 904 Torque Flight? Either the converters (Stock) are in the $300 range.
You may find a local tranny shop,or even Jegs or Summit if you can't find local.
At one time Jegs had 25-2800 stall speed 727 converters (Jegs brand)for $300-$400.
Haven't looked for awhile.
Click to expand...
Ok very interesting. Thank you. It’s a 727. I will do some looking. How much work is a torque converter replacement?
 
ratty dart 340 said:
How much work is a torque converter replacement?
Click to expand...

Just need to pull the transmission out and replace the TC. Since it is out, I would get the transmission overhauled with quality parts. After being raced and having sat for a long time the seals & clutches likely need replacing. To me, no sense in putting in a new torque converter if the rest of the unit is tired.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Just need to pull the transmission out and replace the TC. Since it is out, I would get the transmission overhauled with quality parts. After being raced and having sat for a long time the seals & clutches likely need replacing. To me, no sense in putting in a new torque converter if the rest of the unit is tired.
Click to expand...
Yea I think I will end up doing that. I am just doing a brief look online, but I can’t seem to find a torque converter that I would need.
 
Looks like a good one.Key word unbalanced . BUT with a 360 that is external balance you will have to use a B&M flex plate #10236.
When things get swapped on our cars over the years unknown to us,you gotta look at everything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top