traction bars wanted

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thanson_mopar

thanson_mopar

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anyone have a set of traction bars for sale new or used? (for my duster) im on a tight budget so i cant afford the fanciest ones but let me know what you have and how much you want for them, id appreciate it thanks
 
clamp your rearsprings get a pioionsnubber i've been told tractionbars don't work on our mopars just scrape speedbumps do a search
 
Traction bars "slapper bars" do work if they are correctly made. I have a set on my drag car that I made and it lifts the rear up about 3" when I hit the throttle. The bars need to long enough to make contact with the spring eye. If they contact anywere else they won't work very good. Also my bars are also the spring plate so it has good action. The traction bars that clamp to the spring are basically worthless. The only reason they work a little is they are clamping the spring. For a dual purpose street/strip car I would also use a pinion snubber/springs clamps instead of traction bars.

Chuck
 
thanson. Just so you know. The traction bars work well with the GM cars. The MoPar rear is design to rise where the GM will squat down. You don't want to stress the leaf springs with the traction bars. They can be made to work, but why make'em work when the stock suspension only needs a few minor parts?
Heck, a buddy of mine runs low 10's with slant six springs.

Your on the right track with the clamps.
 
It's my understanding too that the traction bars on Mopars aren't needed. Something to do with the axle sitting further forward on the springs -which prevents the axle wrap. On GM cars (as far as I know) the axle is sitting in the center of the spring and needs traction bars (slappers) to prevent the wrap. Definitely use a pinion snubber. I'm running my pinion snubber about 3/4" off the underside of the car.
Greg
 
thanson i'd just make my own clamps cost 12 dollars homedepo steel and bolts a hacksaw and drillbit not included thats what i did compared to 35 bucks+shipping
 
The springs on a Mopar still try to wrap up if they didn't a pinion snubber wouldn't work.


Chuck
 
Like 340 said. traction bars can work just as well on a Mopar as any other car. They just need to be correct for the spring. Those cheap $25 lakewoods are not made to work with a mopar leaf spring. The snubber ends up in the in correct place and causes problems.
 
my two cents,as per MOPAR chassis book,

Traction bars generally are not recommended.Traction bars definitely should not b used with super stock springs.In many cases,the use of traction bars results in bent axle housings or other equipment and may adversely affect the cars handling.

Right out of chassis book.:D
 
Those books are full useless info, LOL

Fun to read but they were writen in the 70s and never updated.
 
AdamR, the site that you referenced is good for the Ford and Chevy rear springs that are designed with the long front section. The MP S/S springs are designed with the short front section that will not allow the axle twist on the starting line, thus no wheel-hop. The "no traction bar" recommendation from the MP chassis book may have it's roots from the 70s but the updates are already into the 9th edition of the manual and the recommendation is still there. Additionally, the books may have been written in the 70s but the design of the S/S springs has not changed to this day. Therefore, the recommendations are still valid. I run a 71 340 Demon NHRA stocker with the 002/003 S/S spings without the use of any other traction device and have never had any problems on the line. The car launches hard, straight and goes fast. Just my 2 cents.

Ken
Edison, NJ
 
I was actually posting that link for the build your own Cal-Trac set up. I used 002/003 springs on my last car with the Mopar drag shocks and adjustable pinion snubber and they worked good. I agree that traction bars with ss would most likely work against each other but stock springs and properly designed traction bars should work well together.
 
IMHO, the pinion snubber works better on mopars. As the axle tries to wrap, it pushes the pinion snubber against the floor. This not only causes the rear to rise a bit, but also "pushes the tires down harder". If that makes any sense. That is why the short front section of spring and long rear section. On the gm & ford guys, the axle is in the middle of the springs. When their axles wrap, the traction bar pushes up on the spring, and effectively "pushes the tires down harder". Anyone running homemade "caltracs". Those look really interesting.

Greg
 
Thanks physixx thought i was only one here that uses references of factory info.Yes chassis and engine books were written in 70s but it was written by none other than factory engineers and MOPAR drag racers. "Useless info"? Back to original question,dont use traction bars on mopars buy a adj.pinion snubber about 60-80 bucks and save the grief of braking axle tubes with traction bars.Have seen a bent 8-3/4 right side axle tube cause guy ran traction bars.
 
How did SS springs get involved in this? I wouldn't use anything with a SS spring except a pinion snubber. Again I run homemade traction bars on a drag car and have for three years and NO bend axle tubes. Someone explain to me how a traction bar will bend an axle tube but a pinion snubber or Caltracs won't? If the response sounds logical I will accept it. I also have the latest version of the chassis manual and although there is a ton of good info in there some of it just doesn't make any sense. I guess my car is a freak of natural just Harley Davidsons or bumble bees. Since Harleys aren't supposed to be able to run, bumble bees can't fly and my car has straight axle tubes.


Chuck
 
Hi! i have a nice set of lakewoods $50.00 plus shiping.
I used them on my 67 cuda and they worked good.
Went to the cal-tracs.Let me know.
 
My barracuda ran 11.78 @ 118-mph with a 8,000-RPM launch using the info from a "worthless old 70s book".


My set up.... SS springs, pinion snubber on a Dana 60, sub-frame connecters, battery in the trunk, and drag shocks. Thats it.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
My barracuda ran 11.78 @ 118-mph with a 8,000-RPM launch using the info from a "worthless old 70s book".


My set up.... SS springs, pinion snubber on a Dana 60, sub-frame connecters, battery in the trunk, and drag shocks. Thats it.
Click to expand...

:happy6:I think Adam stepped in poop with the remark about the old Direct Connection bulletins and it`s going to take a while to get it off his shoe. :silent:I love my old DC books and use them extensively. :book:As someone mentioned earlier we`re still using the same gear so the info is still pertinent.
 
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