trans leaking again after rebuild

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rigger3006

rigger3006

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once again my 727 is leaking from inspection cover, a slow drip as compared to the pouring out.hoping its just front seal, one strange thing since install has been a weird short whistling noise(very short duration) just when i get on it hard, cant figure that one out. trans was rebuilt at supposedly reputable shop,with my math skills it was fully rebuilt in under 4 hrs, does this sound about right?
 
If it a little over filled it can vent the fluid until the level gets down a little more.

Sometimes clutch discs in the trans can "bark" on the shifts (it would make the noise right as a gear takes hold.)
I put a Barnett HD racing clutch in my bike some time ago and it does that. (barks on the engage and sounds almost like a tire bark)

A whistle sound could be an intake leak at the carb base so look for that also.
 
Same converter? I think I mentioned it in your other post, I had a faulty converter that pushed fluid out the vent. Did they check yours out or test it for you? There's only 2 places to leak from, front seal or vent hole. With a slow drip I'd guess overzealous install of converter on the input shaft or lack of lube, nicked the seal maybe?
If all the parts are there in front of them and the trans is clean they could assemble it in a couple hours no prob.
 
same converter, they said it was good, not sure how they tested it. did have a tough time getting converter to settle in properly,had fluid on it though. carb base leak, maybe, no vacuum leak though. the short whistle noise is usually around 4 to 6000 rpm, maybe lasts a 10th of a second. i wiil drive some more this weekend and try to figger it out,,thanks
 
I've rebuilt quite a few Mopar autos. There is no way I could do it in under 4 hrs.I suppose a well seasoned builder might, if the trans was clean, and basically in good shape;so he would be doing just a reclutch. Shoot, I take over an hour in the VB alone. And sometimes it takes more than an hour just to clean it.
And once the TC is on the bench, I can't think of any way to say it's good. There's only one way to tell; by how it performs.You can cut it open and inspect the parts, and get a good idea of it's condition. But on the bench, about all you can tell is if the drive hub, and ring gear are ok .
 
I'm no trans guru, but I don't think I would use a converter from a damaged transmission in a freshly rebuilt one.
 
pressure test the convertor? Could be a cracked hub, or maybe a loose drain plug? tranny leaks suck.
 
there was a screw and clutch parts in the pan, tc hub had input shaft metal welded to it, they got it off and said it was good to go.they installed transgo tf-3, but said i had to run kickdown cable, even though transgo instructions say otherwise, also advises 1st gear burnouts. i think i may have picked wrong shop!
 
Hmm, I just put my 904 together yesterday, in 2.5hrs. I had already assembled, the clutch packs. Added new billet servos and accumulator. Only my second time. Installed today, works like a champ. I had to rebuild because I made the mistake of buying a used factory valvebody(too save some money) from a member here that had a trango stage 3 kit in it, low/reverse servo was partially engaging when it shouldn't and ate up my band and drum. This time I bought a turbo action full manual with low band apply.
Anyway, I would take it back to the shop if you think there are issues. If they told you converter was good, as well as their work on the trans then it's on them if you have issues.
I had a shop give me back my rebuilt 727 with converter installed and they told me its all good to go. I took it home, put it back in the car. It was pumping fluid out of the vent. Converter was hooped, they didn't even look at it, so they paid to pull trans and re-install, I paid for converter to be fixed. Owner was a very stand up guy,,,,now when anyone asked who to go to for transmission work I mention his name. Hard to find people like that these days.
 
this fella seems to be a very standup guy,dont get me wrong,my wife picked up trans,when i got home i fiddled with shifter linkage and it wouldnt move, called him up and told him about it and the missing dipstick. he drove 120 kms to check it out the next day, linkage was stiff was all and installed dipstick for me. i have no garage for the demon, ive had motor and trans out twice this year and im working 6 days a week right now, it wont be out til next year. maybe i can get lucky and its overfull, i cant get a proper reading on dipstick,in neutral of course, i installed 9 litres in trans so i dont think thats the problem
 
rigger3006 said:
this fella seems to be a very standup guy,dont get me wrong,my wife picked up trans,when i got home i fiddled with shifter linkage and it wouldnt move, called him up and told him about it and the missing dipstick. he drove 120 kms to check it out the next day, linkage was stiff was all and installed dipstick for me. i have no garage for the demon, ive had motor and trans out twice this year and im working 6 days a week right now, it wont be out til next year. maybe i can get lucky and its overfull, i cant get a proper reading on dipstick,in neutral of course, i installed 9 litres in trans so i dont think thats the problem
Click to expand...

Just an FYI.
Running to little fluid can foam it and cause the same problem.

My money is still on the seal or converter snout.
Not wishing that on you or anything, but that is usually where the problems come from.
 
When I do a transmission, after I put in the new bushings in the pump, I'll stick the pump on a convertor to make sur it spins freely. Bushings are like cam bearings and can get tweaked on install. It's nice to verify it before it's all together. It sounds to me like a bad pump seal, especially given the issues getting the convertor in. Stuff out the vent is usually a higher rpm thing, and the gasket around the pump and kickdown level plug don't usually leak.
In terms of time - I could see a repair going 4hrs. A rebuild would go longer unless the guy didn't measure much, or didn't replace the bushings, or both. My best start with a complete and grungy unit to finish has been about 8hrs if I can use someones jetwash and blasting cabinet.
 
^^ sounds about right

Putting it together in 2.5 is also good, If the dang thing is clean,the sub-assemblies are all set up, All bushings and seal are in, VB is rebuilt, Pump is assembled and centered, etc.
Just slapping it together doesn't take long. It's all the setting up and fitting, and most especially, the VB. A guy can spend a lot of time in there.
And if cleaning the outside by hand, a guy can spend an hour or more right there. And the outside doesn't need to be especially clean, but if it's not, and just one tiny piece of grit finds it's way into the VB, well, you could be doing it all over again. Plus it leaves a nagging doubt in the customers mind about your workmanship. So if I'm building one for a customer, I will rather spend an hour and a half getting it really clean, just to remove that doubt. Sure on my own trannys, I've gotten away with....um....stuff.
 
^^^^^^. Ya, my bad. I forgot about the time it took for a few things, especially the bushings and cleaning. Alzheimer's moment, I just had assembly on the brain...doh.
 
rigger3006 said:
one strange thing since install has been a weird short whistling noise(very short duration) just when i get on it hard, cant figure that one out.
Click to expand...

What (if any) PCV system ???
 
Am I the only one that thinks that trans guy is a little koo koo after this:


There was a screw and clutch parts in the pan.

TC hub had input shaft metal welded to it.

They got it off and said it was good to go.

They installed Transgo TF-3, but said I had to run kickdown cable, even though Transgo instructions say otherwise,

(Yes, Transgo recommends wiring the pressure arm in the rearward position using safety wire)

Also advises 1st gear burnouts.


I think I may have picked wrong shop!

Quite possibly.
 
No, you are not the only one.


Bad Sport said:
Am I the only one that thinks that trans guy is a little koo koo after this:


There was a screw and clutch parts in the pan.

TC hub had input shaft metal welded to it.

They got it off and said it was good to go.

They installed Transgo TF-3, but said I had to run kickdown cable, even though Transgo instructions say otherwise,

(Yes, Transgo recommends wiring the pressure arm in the rearward position using safety wire)

Also advises 1st gear burnouts.


I think I may have picked wrong shop!

Quite possibly.
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
No, you are not the only one.
Click to expand...

Whew, I ain't no trans expert, but if I were rebuilding mine, or a shop was, that TC would have been in the scrap pile in a New York minute, whether the trans guy argued the point or not.

I guess he's the one that's got to stand behind his work though.
 
Bad Sport said:
Am I the only one that thinks that trans guy is a little koo koo after this:


There was a screw and clutch parts in the pan.

TC hub had input shaft metal welded to it.

They got it off and said it was good to go.

They installed Transgo TF-3, but said I had to run kickdown cable, even though Transgo instructions say otherwise,

(Yes, Transgo recommends wiring the pressure arm in the rearward position using safety wire)

Also advises 1st gear burnouts.


I think I may have picked wrong shop!

Quite possibly.
Click to expand...

I was just about to make the same comments Bruce. If the converter was welded to the input hub I absolutely guarantee it was not usable unless cut apart, cleaned, any bad parts replaced and a new snout welded on. I also wonder if the OP flushed the trans cooler good before installing the new trans cause if not it's full of burned up clutch and band material from the old one. A plugged up cooler can cause fluid to be pushed out
 
Well, at least I'm not totally off my rocker, lol.

The OP trusted the shop and I can understand that. The shop should have recommended a new converter, a nice factory high stall would have been cheap insurance, IMO.
 
yeah, i flushed the b&m cooler and lines, shop supplied the can to do it with. i think i will just put factory tc back in, even though trans shop assured me it was "shot" because my car wouldnt idle without dying with my 284/484 cam! it worked just fine with 340 cam, ive got a new small voodoo cam to throw in next spring.
 
i know, thats why i got the hughes 3000 tc.my point is guy at trans shop was adamant my factory tc must be no good,that my car shouldnt have idling issues with a performance cam. maybe the problem is he races a chevy with a powerglide! possibly why he recommends 1st gear burnouts!
 
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