Tremec TKX first cuts

-
Norm.P said:
I will say I did find this. Hurst TKX, TKO Crossmember fits 67-76 MOPAR A-Bodies – Hanlon Motorsports
It's a strictly bolt on, although I'm not sure if that's a good idea either. I would think a weld would be stronger.
Click to expand...

Yup, I've seen that! I previously saw it on the Holley website. That would do a perfect job. Cons there are the cost, and size. It would require some serious cutting of the tunnel, because it also works for the TKO which is a tank compared to the TKX. BUT, it would perfectly replace the factory part, if not make it stronger since that piece is thicker steel (I know it looks thin, but the factory stamped steel is even thinner). I would argue a weld is not even necessary, but convenient to avoid clunking while driving.
 
Arthur Sperotto said:
That bend in the bar is the triangulation. I've edited a picture from google to try and illustrate. The red forces at the torsion bars represent the forces that occur when your suspension compresses. The red arrows in the middle of the bend represent where those forces end up, and why that bend is important. The forces squeeze that section together; it's stable and strong. Without that upper section, you have the blue arrows showing where the forces end up. They just tug down on the floor. No matter how strong the lower section is, it's still a downward force with no counter-acting force. To be completely honest, and I hope I am not offending anybody when I say this, I don't think the folks at SST are engineers. You don't have to be one to design something like that. I do believe the folks who created the ToddRon crossmember ARE engineers - and as you can see from the cost of that unit, that's why I believe SST aren't including it. It drives up the cost and complexity.
As a mechanical engineer, I can assure you that part is important. If you can drive down the street with peace of mind without it, more power to you!

View attachment 1715945764



You're correct. It doesn't even have to be connected to the floor to do its job. As you can see in the pic above, it's just about dealing with the forces from the t bar movement. Tack welds are all that's needed.
Click to expand...

You make some valid points. But would not the transmission itself (which is bolted to the new crossmember) act as a trianglualtion point?
 
Arthur Sperotto said:
Yup, I've seen that! I previously saw it on the Holley website. That would do a perfect job. Cons there are the cost, and size. It would require some serious cutting of the tunnel, because it also works for the TKO which is a tank compared to the TKX. BUT, it would perfectly replace the factory part, if not make it stronger since that piece is thicker steel (I know it looks thin, but the factory stamped steel is even thinner). I would argue a weld is not even necessary, but convenient to avoid clunking while driving.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Thank you for the picture and the illustration. Definitely makes it more understandable. @AJ/FormS was trying to explain the same thing to me. There are some smart smart people on here.
 
Last edited:
@Norm.P , it makes my day that I was able to get the point across! :)

DionR said:
Holley has a bolt in brace for their Hemi swap stuff with the TKX.

Hooker BlackHeart BHS588 Hooker Blackheart TKX Transmission Crossmember Support

I don't think it would work in this situation since Holley moves the motor forward with their swap parts, but it kind of says to me that they feel the crossmember needs to be reinforced when the middle is removed.

They also have one for the NAG1 swap:

Hooker BlackHeart BHS578 Hooker Blackheart Transmission Crossmember Hoop
Click to expand...

That first link is only the lower crossmember section. But... the hoop is *fantastic*! That is perfection, you cannot get any better than that. If that hoop fits the TKX (or could be made to fit it), that would be the end-all be-all solution. The price is awesome too!

jcolman said:
You make some valid points. But would not the transmission itself (which is bolted to the new crossmember) act as a trianglualtion point?
Click to expand...

That's good thinking, but no, because the trans is bolted to the lowest section of the crossmember. So even though its position suggests it would complete the triangle, the forces would only travel through the mounting points, which are at the bottom. In other words, the t bars are also pulling the transmission toward the ground when you hit a bump (but that would not happen if you connected the crossmember at the top).
 
Arthur Sperotto said:
That first link is only the lower crossmember section.
Click to expand...

It's actually marketed as a brace. It goes along with the crossmember.

Here is a snap from their instructions:

Capture.PNG


Not arguing that it does the job, only that Holley felt the need to offer it.
 
jcolmans car definitely has more stress on it than mine. He has 200 miles on his already and driving it. LOL I think that's awesome.
My cars next trip is to be slid over a couple feet in the garage to paint and assemble. Have not touched it in a while. Been busy.
Lots of ways to do the install. If everyone did everything the same way things would be pretty dull. Let's see those ideas.
 
DC Dart said:
jcolmans car definitely has more stress on it than mine. He has 200 miles on his already and driving it. LOL I think that's awesome.
My cars next trip is to be slid over a couple feet in the garage to paint and assemble. Have not touched it in a while. Been busy.
Lots of ways to do the install. If everyone did everything the same way things would be pretty dull. Let's see those ideas.
Click to expand...
I was thinking screw it. I'll just order the Passon A855 and not cut any structure. Downside is I'll probably be waiting a couple years!
 
DionR said:
It's actually marketed as a brace. It goes along with the crossmember.

Here is a snap from their instructions:

View attachment 1715945805

Not arguing that it does the job, only that Holley felt the need to offer it.
Click to expand...


Oh! Thanks for the picture! Makes a lot more sense. It looks like it definitely helps and is better than not having it, but it's still definitely not as good as the top connection. For a low power car that only sees great quality pavement, I would probably be comfortable running that in a mild application.

DC Dart said:
jcolmans car definitely has more stress on it than mine. He has 200 miles on his already and driving it. LOL I think that's awesome.
My cars next trip is to be slid over a couple feet in the garage to paint and assemble. Have not touched it in a while. Been busy.
Lots of ways to do the install. If everyone did everything the same way things would be pretty dull. Let's see those ideas.
Click to expand...

There's a YouTuber who fabbed this setup, I like it. It's simple and strong. Takes a bit of work to make, but I think I can pull it off even with my limited fabbing skills.

277544073_733241464508245_8377342471247948735_n.jpg



277294407_1160403298140381_5340557448510103943_n.jpg
 
I certainly appreciate the education in rotational forces as it applies to our cars. While I won't be dropping the transmission and installing a top brace anytime soon, I will be keeping an eye on things while I drive it. I don't race the car but as mentioned, there are dips on the road that sometimes you can't avoid.
 
Hi there. Thanks all for the posts on this thread. I am about to do the same on a 67 auto Dart. The car will be daily driven, canyon carving and a little road course. Top bracing will be seriously considered!

To those who fitted theirs, will the USCT driveshaft loop that bolts onto the cross member still work? I want to keep mine and reuse it for the TKX.
 
I think that will work. I am not sure yet if I am going to use the USCT drive shaft loop or build my own.
The auto floor will be easier than the 4 speed.
 
I have not touched the car in months other than moving it towards the center of the garage. Getting ready to paint the tunnel and touch up the firewall. I missed a couple areas when the car was painted. Inner lip of where the rear quarter windows are, inner fender bolts, hood hinge bolt heads. I plan to touch up those areas with paint at the time.
Hopefully I can get that done in the next couple weeks.
Wondering about what I am going to do for shift boot? OEM rubber with OEM bezel, OEM bezel with leather boot or Dakar aluminum bezel with genuine imitation leather.
Excited to see Arthurs and others progress. As mine is currently slow.
 
Arthur Sperotto said:
You're 1 year and 3 months late to make that comment, brother! :lol:

But... that's none of my business. Please, continue on! I just couldn't hold that back lol.
Click to expand...

Nah, the "X" was placed about 10:48 my time last night, if I remember correctly.

Best guess is he was scrolling through it on his phone and hit the "X" accidentally. Saw another thread where someone asked the same question (why?) and it was just an accident.
 
DionR said:
Nah, the "X" was placed about 10:48 my time last night, if I remember correctly.

Best guess is he was scrolling through it on his phone and hit the "X" accidentally. Saw another thread where someone asked the same question (why?) and it was just an accident.
Click to expand...
I stand corrected! My apologies, @abodyjoe . And you're right Dion, most likely an accidental click.
 
Arthur Sperotto said:
I stand corrected! My apologies, @abodyjoe . And you're right Dion, most likely an accidental click.
Click to expand...

In the other thread I thought about suggesting that to add an "X" you have to give a reason so a popup would appear giving a box to fill in. This way, an accidental click would be avoided since the popup would alert the individual, and people might know what the disagreement would be about. But then I realized that most people that actually add an "X" are already angry and having to type something in would probably anger them more, or result in lots of "Wrong" as the reason rather than something with some information. So I never posted the idea.
 
Would like to see a picture of a completed bench seat with the TKX. I you used the SST kit parts, did you have to alter your existing exhaust and clutch linkage? I asked another contributer, he said no to exhaust , and had to do the clutch linkage anyway. These are little things, but I would like to see the bench install.
 
I have not taken any photos of the bench seat in place since the metal work was completed. But I know it clears as I checked it many times. My shifter may be best if it did not lean back so much. May change it. The hole in the center of tunnel with the lever leaned towards driver is fine.
Any mechanical clutch issues would likely be due to whatever bell was used not the transmission. An advantage of this transmission is to be able to use OEM linkage. Not sure if the 6 speed would clear the bench seat.
The exhaust should not notice the difference between this transmission and an 833 unless the tail shaft is installed considerably lower than OEM. One area kind of tight is the speedo cable. When the tail shaft is in the OEM position the torsion bar cross member crowds it a little.
I went with the hydraulic clutch from SST but I think it may be overated. I would not mind if I am wrong on this. I have no issues with mechanical clutch linkage other than I am running a big block with TTI headers and room is tight regardless of transmission.

IMG_20211229_152305213_HDR.jpg
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Would like to see a picture of a completed bench seat with the TKX. I you used the SST kit parts, did you have to alter your existing exhaust and clutch linkage? I asked another contributer, he said no to exhaust , and had to do the clutch linkage anyway. These are little things, but I would like to see the bench install.
Click to expand...
Check out my thread called "Convince me to put a TKX in my Dart". I am running a bench seat. No TTi exhaust modification was required. For clutch, I was going auto to manual, so I did not previously have a clutch. I opted for a hydraulic release bearing (highly recommend). That gives you tons of room since the slave cylinder and release bearing are 1 unit, inside the bell housing.
 
I can't find it. I used to be able to select a page, don't know how with this new format, and never have been able to search.
Anyway,
1. I would think that going with SST's install kit , which drops the tail of the tkx down, so that only trimming to the cross member is necessary, not cutting, would put a strain on the headers and clutch linkage, with out adjusting.
2. I just went out and looked at the position of my shifter in the floor and relationship to the seat. I am a small frame person, 5'8". My seat is a click or two from all the way back , which would be too far. It just seems like something is off. Do you guys have long legs and a set of those seat extenders? I am really not trying to argue, but I must be missing something when looking at the pictures.
So, the shifter location can still be turned 180° to move it forward? Or don't need to, it's in the same place as the orginal only centered in the tunnel.

20221223_183134.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top