Tubular Lower Control Arm Thread

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Fst73_360 said:
These are options or must do's ?

The car is hopefully going to be a 10 second car. So IDK if the smaller shock is a good idea. I want to be able to be safe but be lower in the front.
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1 or the other will work depending on how low you want to go. You could do all 3 if you wanted to.
 
Just wanna drop 2 in max. I want the tucked looked if I go with 18in wheels.
 
Fst73_360 said:
These are options or must do's ?

The car is hopefully going to be a 10 second car. So IDK if the smaller shock is a good idea. I want to be able to be safe but be lower in the front.
Click to expand...

Louis is right. Thanks Louis. :D You could do any of these and solve the problem.

Here is a shorter coilover that would work to get another 1 1/4" drop, but the total stroke is shorter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STR-S5202/
 
Badart said:
Louis is right. Thanks Louis. :D You could do any of these and solve the problem.

Here is a shorter coilover that would work to get another 1 1/4" drop, but the total stroke is shorter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STR-S5202/
Click to expand...

Would any of this effect me wanting to go fast? haha sorry Ricky Bobby told me to say that. But will any of this effect me going 10s? Safety wise or limit travel or anything?
 
With a drag car, front suspension travel is usually not Alot. This is why they use "limiting" kits to limo the travel. I didn't look at the mentioned coilovers but don't think you need 8" of travel...
 
So actually limiting travel would be good because it would keep the tires on the ground? Or am i going off in the wrong direction? Jw haha Either these are an upgrade I want.
 
Limiting front suspension aids in weight transfer and applying more weight to the rear tire patch. It all has to do with physics and how loads are moved around and applied in different areas. In our top sportsman car, I literally have the front struts locked out...they don't seperate much if any.
 
I'm not the best one explaining this, but you want some rise in the front of the car, but you want it unloading slowly. Helps 60' times I have been told, because you want the car moving forward and not up. Something that you will have to play with. I stole this part which helps explain it a little better.

Here is an example that will help explain how the front shocks and the rear tires react to each other.
Imagine standing on a bathroom scale and holding one end of a 12 foot long board. The other end is being supported by a friend. Your feet represent the rear tires and your friend represents the front springs/shocks.

-Try lifting the board out of your friends hands from your end of the board. With no help from your friend the board will feel very heavy and as you try to lift the board, you will apply pressure to the bathroom scale. This is similar to the reaction that the tires will feel with stiff rebounding front shocks.

-Now do the same thing but allow your friend to help lift the board. As your friend is helping, the reading on the bathroom scale will read Less than when he wasn't helping. This is similar to the reaction that the rear tires feel with soft rebounding front shocks.

Let's apply that theory to this scenario. With a stiffer (70/30) front shock we are going to have more force applied to the rear tires during the initial launch. But because the nose is so heavy it doesn't want to lift and the rear tires spin too much. Now we use a softer front shock (90/10). This doesn't apply as much force to the rear tires and causes the tires to hook initially but then spin but does allow the front end to rise. The Further the front end rises, the more force is applied to the rear tires and helps those vehicles with poor weight distribution. So the next step is to try a shock valving of 80/20. Lets' say that this works as expected and nets us 100% traction with just the right amount of front end rise but now we have some more tuning to do. If the 80/20 shock works then there may be Un-necessary front end travel. Remember, we don't want front end travel if we don't need it. So now is the time to start limiting the front end travel until only the minimal amount of front end rise is needed. If this achieved with the proper PR then you can be certain that every bit of energy is being used to propel the car Forward which is what we want. *The shock valving used in the above examples were used for simplicity only. In actuality Fully Adjustable shocks would be much better so one can adjust the shocks compression and rebounding characteristics.
 
The Strange Engineering Coilovers that I have mocked up are single adjustable, but have 10 settings for rebound, which is what you want to dial in how fast you want the front of the car to rise. :D
 
I think I got it. From reading all that it seemed like you want the front to raise to put pressure on the rear, but limit how fast it raises in the air so that your using energy to go forward and hook. I think.
 
Please draw ZERO correlation between a 10-11 second door car and a top sportsman car. Entirely different animals when it comes to front ends and what you need to hook.

A 10-11 second door car is going to need about 5" of travel to work properly.
 
i just put coil overs on my front end and had way to much travel of 5",so i got a travel limiter from jegs and got it down to 2"
 
crackedback said:
Please draw ZERO correlation between a 10-11 second door car and a top sportsman car. Entirely different animals when it comes to front ends and what you need to hook.

A 10-11 second door car is going to need about 5" of travel to work properly.
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Thanks cracked. So what would your opinion be if the car was built to go fast? Stick with torsion bars and lower the car that way? Basically saying make your mind up, coil over or torsion bar and go fast.
 
crackedback said:
Please draw ZERO correlation between a 10-11 second door car and a top sportsman car. Entirely different animals when it comes to front ends and what you need to hook.

A 10-11 second door car is going to need about 5" of travel to work properly.
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Dang Rob I'm trying to sell stuff. LOL. Seriously thanks for pointing that out.
 
Cracked is correct...I was just trying to make it clear that a ton of travel is not needed...I would say 5" may even be too much. As for fst_73's question...guys have been going fast for MANY years with a torsion bar setup. Nothing against coilovers, but are they needed to go fast? Nope.
 
Haha no thanks guys. I was just going to coil for the ability to handle better and lower the car some.
 
I like coilovers for one thing....ROOM

never saw weight reduction especially if you add the re-enforcing requirements...or any great improvement in handling....

but did I say I like the extra room?

BTW..same-same on the rack and pinion....maybe a little weight savings...but how much does a dollar weigh?
 
HemiDenny said:
never saw weight reduction especially if you add the re-enforcing requirements...or any great improvement in handling....
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I think that the re-enforcing should be done on these cars regardless. Especially on the front end. Just put jack stands under the frame rails just behind the fire wall lower the jack and see how much the front droops. It's scary.
 
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