**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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I am loving every bit of this build!! Everything looks amazing!! I mustve spent three hours today going through every page and it was well worth the read. Ive been planning to build a turbo setup for my duster's 408 in stages over the next couple years; this thread i can already tell will help me immensley!! Ive been planning on running a MSII and turbo cam until i can get enough downtime and money to purchase/install the turbo setup. Im thinking a pair of holset turbos with an air-to-air intercooler...

After reading through the entire thread i still have a few unanswered questions (or answers that i cant remember or find again): Since this as you said will be a street car 75% of the time, why did you choose to run a water to air intercooler? Isnt it more efficient at the track, but through the streets will it be less than optimal?
I am also curious as to what brand blowoff valves and wastegates you have..

Thanks a lot, and keep up the great work; i cant wait for more updates!!
 
dustbull said:
I am loving every bit of this build!! Everything looks amazing!! I mustve spent three hours today going through every page and it was well worth the read. Ive been planning to build a turbo setup for my duster's 408 in stages over the next couple years; this thread i can already tell will help me immensley!! Ive been planning on running a MSII and turbo cam until i can get enough downtime and money to purchase/install the turbo setup. Im thinking a pair of holset turbos with an air-to-air intercooler...

After reading through the entire thread i still have a few unanswered questions (or answers that i cant remember or find again): Since this as you said will be a street car 75% of the time, why did you choose to run a water to air intercooler? Isnt it more efficient at the track, but through the streets will it be less than optimal?
I am also curious as to what brand blowoff valves and wastegates you have..

Thanks a lot, and keep up the great work; i cant wait for more updates!!
Click to expand...

I purchased the same ones from an ebay store "Godspeed". They are pretty good pieces after a tearddown and looksee! Maddart has them listed somewhere in this thread. I paid $120 for the WG and $70 for the BOV. I think they come in blue too.
 
yeah that's a good price. My wastegates are turbonetics 44mm and they were 770. I have a TiAL 50mm BOV and it was about 230. I now wish I would have looked a ittle deaper in the thread. Might have done it a ittle different, espically since I have 225 in turbos lol
 
dustbull said:
I am loving every bit of this build!! Everything looks amazing!! I mustve spent three hours today going through every page and it was well worth the read. Ive been planning to build a turbo setup for my duster's 408 in stages over the next couple years; this thread i can already tell will help me immensley!! Ive been planning on running a MSII and turbo cam until i can get enough downtime and money to purchase/install the turbo setup. Im thinking a pair of holset turbos with an air-to-air intercooler...

After reading through the entire thread i still have a few unanswered questions (or answers that i cant remember or find again): Since this as you said will be a street car 75% of the time, why did you choose to run a water to air intercooler? Isnt it more efficient at the track, but through the streets will it be less than optimal?
I am also curious as to what brand blowoff valves and wastegates you have..

Thanks a lot, and keep up the great work; i cant wait for more updates!!
Click to expand...

I chose the Air/Water for the space. The heat exchanger you see upfront is only 1 inch thick with 2 10 inch fans. I believe it will be more than efficient enough. An Air/Air intercooler would have required me to cut up the front valance and adjust things that I was unwilling to do. The Air to Water Intercoolers are supposed to be more efficient? Thats what they say anyway.
It is a little different with 2 of them in the fender wells. The only other car I seen like this is Mike's Nova that I posted in the thread. I don't think he is running a Heat exchager on his just a pump pushing the water around.

Robert does have the same Wastegates and Blow off Valves as me. I did take them apart and put new orings around the screws and lubed the valves with anti sieze. I was curious and I am glad I did inspect them.
 
Thanks, great info! ...I am only going off of what i have heard when i say water to air is more efficient. Although with colder water than ambient temp. of air it could make a cooler charge; i dont know the difference in pressure loss between the two types though. Since my car will be seeing like 99% street use, id like to minimize the moving parts and such. Cant wait to see the progress and how the MSII goes together.
 
dustbull said:
Thanks, great info! ...I am only going off of what i have heard when i say water to air is more efficient. Although with colder water than ambient temp. of air it could make a cooler charge; i dont know the difference in pressure loss between the two types though. Since my car will be seeing like 99% street use, id like to minimize the moving parts and such. Cant wait to see the progress and how the MSII goes together.
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Well I say its all good. This car will not be a daily driver though I WILL drive it alot when it is done...

They say that the Water/Air intercooler can get heat soaked, same as a Air/Air if you are not moving enough air thru the cooling fins. My Counter to that is I will have the pump circulate the water and the 2-10" fans come on and Run when the car is turned off if need be. Ron Francis is going to make me a custom wiring harness that will take care of that with Relays etc and it will be tied into the MS2 to trigger when and how long they stay on at shut down. Kind of a bunch more work than an Air/Air system.

I say Choose what works best for you, the application/install and run with it. Its all good!! :toothy7:
 
Are those hedders gonna work/fit Louis?I could be wrong,but to me they don,t look like they,ll fit.Good luck getting it to the dyno.:thumrigh:
 
pettybludart said:
Are those hedders gonna work/fit Louis?I could be wrong,but to me they don,t look like they,ll fit.Good luck getting it to the dyno.:thumrigh:
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Well I sure hope they fit being that they were the exact ones I used during the complete mock up! All Exhaust piping etc was built around what you see in these pictures.

You will see how it comes together in the next few updates. The rest of the exhaust piping will go on next and then mount the turbos etc.

Are you messin with me??:banghead:
 
Hey Get to work on it and quit bangin your head on the wall!! Looks awesome Shes coming together!! With any luck I'll be runnin by the end of may!!
 
Louis,I,ve just never seen shory,s used on a SBM other than the SpitFires.Hope all works out for ya.Will be watching..

Oh and the engine looks awesome!!:hello1:
 
pettybludart said:
Louis,I,ve just never seen shory,s used on a SBM other than the SpitFires.Hope all works out for ya.Will be watching..

Oh and the engine looks awesome!!:hello1:
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There is a guy on FABO that uses a set just like this only he has a Single Turbo on a 318. He has had his on there for a good while with no problems at all.

Mine Dumps straight off the collector to a 2 1/2" pipe to a 3" Pipe and up into the Turbo Flanges on both sides. Should be plenty of flow out the exhaust.

We will see when it hits the Dyno. I say at least 425HP 425TQ to the tires!:smile:

Oops I mean 825hp 825Tq to the tires!
 
Mad Dart said:
There is a guy on FABO that uses a set just like this only he has a Single Turbo on a 318. He has had his on there for a good while with no problems at all.

Mine Dumps straight off the collector to a 2 1/2" pipe to a 3" Pipe and up into the Turbo Flanges on both sides. Should be plenty of flow out the exhaust.

We will see when it hits the Dyno. I say at least 425HP 425TQ to the tires!:smile:

Oops I mean 825hp 825Tq to the tires!
Click to expand...

I'm tempted to take it to the dyno for you. Since you've gotten more busy with work, I've gotten less busy. My CO told me today to stop staying at work so much and take advantage of my new position. Guess I better follow orders!!
 
64physhy said:
I'm tempted to take it to the dyno for you. Since you've gotten more busy with work, I've gotten less busy. My CO told me today to stop staying at work so much and take advantage of my new position. Guess I better follow orders!!
Click to expand...

Take the time off while you can!

Well that would be a Long Dyno Trip. Brian is telling me probably 3 Days on the Dyno with the EFI Tuning etc. It has alot of stuff going on that needs to be set up before it is ran. 2 Intercoolers on stands, Heat Exchanger on a stand & Water Pump to push the water around the Intercoolers. Meth Injection & Tank.
MS2 EFI Controller, Electronic Boost Controllers. EFI Wiring, Harness.................. I know I am missing some stuff. Alot going on.
 
It's been awhile so I need to refresh myself on the goal at hand. Look how small the Rear Tires are. This is crazy when you think about it 8.87 @ 158 MPH in a car that looks to be a grocery getter.

These are the exact same Turbo's that I am using. This car has ran 4 seasons with no problems at all.


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6VdAHJFh3Y"]YouTube - Mike's 1967 Ebay Twin Turbo Powered BBC[/ame]


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npwI7gJRTNw&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - 47 Street car Shoot-Out Edm[/ame]

Single EBay GT 45 just like the ones I am using on a 5.3 Junkyard motor with a 75 Shot of NOS all the way thru the run. IIRC it ran a 6.20 in the 1/8th.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTV8QTIVYB0&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - michasmovie.wmv[/ame]
 
Yeah,
After I tacked all mine together I removed them to weld them up and when I reinstalled them they didn't fit right. Heat moved everything!!
 
You can keep the movement to a minimum by strategically tacking and welding it off. I never complete 1 full circle weld. I do it in quarters and opposite on a different joint until i get all the way around it. It seems to help a whole bunch.

What exactly moved on yours?
 
Mad Dart said:
You can keep the movement to a minimum by strategically tacking and welding it off. I never complete 1 full circle weld. I do it in quarters and opposite on a different joint until i get all the way around it. It seems to help a whole bunch.

What exactly moved on yours?
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I too welded mine in 1/4 turns. Every V-band joint wouldn't line up. I have the ones that have the "Positive" seal. Has a smaller flange on the inside of the V-band where they meet. This is where they wouldn't line back up. Had to really pull and pry to get them to seat again. Hopefully once they have been installed and run they will settle back to where they are supoosed to be. I am a bit worried when it comes time to cook them 3 different times for the ceramic coating. I may bolt them all together for that process??
 
Do those V Band Flanges have an O ring gasket in them also?

I don't know if they will move when you have them coated. How hot does the oven need to get for ceramic coating? Will they fit in the oven all put together?
 
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