Update on My 64 Dart project

-
Well guys the Dart is back in the shop and finally off my trailer. I'll be taking a break to go down to Springfling. I'll be taking a 71 charger I just got finished. Hopefully It can get some exposure so that I can put it up on the 4 sale block later this summer. That's my money to finish the Dart. When I get back I'll finish re-routing the brake lines and drop the motor in. It should see some fire in June.
 
Well guys been awile since I last posted. I pretty much took a break from the project to finish my 71 Charger. I'll be going out to the shop this weekend to organize all the parts and put together a plan to finish by the end of July as far as the mechanical. I have decided to remove the 8.75 and have it narrowed about 1.5 inches an each side. I'll have to re-order another set of axles from DrDiff. The wheels will have a little more clearance. I also ordered a CALTRAC setup so the SS springs will be going away. The motor is pretty much ready to go in. I have to re-route the front brake line along the firewall IAW NHRA rules since I'm not running a scatter shield. That's pretty much done, waiting to have them flared.
 
dart4forte said:
Well guys been awile since I last posted. I pretty much took a break from the project to finish my 71 Charger. I'll be going out to the shop this weekend to organize all the parts and put together a plan to finish by the end of July as far as the mechanical. I have decided to remove the 8.75 and have it narrowed about 1.5 inches an each side. I'll have to re-order another set of axles from DrDiff. The wheels will have a little more clearance. I also ordered a CALTRAC setup so the SS springs will be going away. The motor is pretty much ready to go in. I have to re-route the front brake line along the firewall IAW NHRA rules since I'm not running a scatter shield. That's pretty much done, waiting to have them flared.
Click to expand...

Today I flared my stainless brake lines for the 8 3/4 rear with a snap-on Blue Point flaring tool that I borrowed from a buddy. Worked really well. SS is a ***** compared to the OEM stuff. I think you can find them used on Ebag pretty easy.
 
Yeah, tell me about it. I'll have to go down to the local shop and see if I can buy one
 
Well I finally got all my vacation traveling done so I started back on the project today. Got the front disks/calipers bolted up and the braided brake lines on. I am waiting on some 3/16 SS brake line so I can plumb the front brakes into the line lock and run the line in front of the K member. I also painted the K frame area that was modified and boxed. I also started to narrow another 8.75 C body housing. I decided to replace the stock width 8.75 to get some more wheel and tire in the wheel wells. I'll also have to order replacement Yukon axles cut to size. I am narrowing the housing a total of 2.5 inches, 1 1/4 each side. As soon as I get that done I'll have a stock width A body housing and Yukon BBP axles up for sale. I'll have some updated pictures tomorrow.
 
Ok guys, some quite a bit of work last weekend on the Dart to prep for engine install. I'll start with the engine mockup which I did several months ago. With the TTI headers you will need the clocking starter. I got mine from Jegs which saved me a few bucks. If using the 340 bell housing you will need to trim off the casting extension on the driverside of the BH. It's in the instructions. I also found that the bolts you get with the headers are both too long and are hard to start. I'm going with ARP header bolts. Don't forget, the trans crossmember has to be notched if you want your exhaust to run tight up and not hang down. On the brakes, I'm running kelsey Hays 4 disk calipers. The stock location for the prop valve will not work, too close to the headers. Because I am running a 4 speed NHRA says you have to re-route your brake lines away from the bellhousing. What I did is order a Prop valve for the 68-70 A body and ordered ca bracket from Right Stuff Inc. (part number PVB 71). The bracket mounts beside the M/C. I then ran my front brake line toward the front of the K member and along the passenger side to connect to the passenger side caliper. As soon as I get the lines back from having them flared I'll install them and take a picture. One thing is for sure running headers on an early A body ranks up there with V8 Vega and early Mustang big black header install.
 
I'll get some as soon as I can get the camera to work. Took some Monday and they didn't take so I'll have to go back later for some more.
 
Got back on the project today and finally got the engine in. I took some doing but got- ir- done. Will be taking it over to a buddies shop to install the tranny. He has a lift and a tranny jack. The driveline is ready and as soon as the tranny is in, the plumbing will be finished up. The engine was a chore with Milodon pan and it too some real finesse to get it in. I'll finish on the torsion bars so I can get it loaded on my trailer.
 
Here's some pics I took today.

MVC-019F.JPG


MVC-020F.JPG


MVC-021F.JPG
 
moparlee said:
Kick AZZ! I like that intake.

Lee
Click to expand...

I still need to dial the carbs. I may use a buddies car in the next few weeks to do that. We did some trick stuff to the carbs like taking some weight off the weights for the secondaries so they open faster.
 
Sorry!! But I have to ask. Is that a two four or a six pack intake?
Just by looking and not going back to see. Is it a two four.
You sure know how to get Things dun dart4forte.
I am enjoying this great build. Thanks for all the info.
I went back and looked Its a two four:thumbup:
 
memike said:
Sorry!! But I have to ask. Is that a two four or a six pack intake?
Just by looking and not going back to see. Is it a two four.
You sure know how to get Things dun dart4forte.
I am enjoying this great build. Thanks for all the info.
I went back and looked Its a two four:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yep, it's a labor of love thats for sure
 
Well guys, it's been awhile but I finally got the dart on 4 wheels. Got the engine and tranny in last weekend. A bit of a challange with that Milodon pan. Anyon thinking of using a deep pan talk with me first. I can share some stories. I got the driver side header in as well. We were going to take the car over to my buddies resto shop today but it snowed again so it will have to wait to get the front and rear glass installed. I took pics on my phone so as soon as the wife gets home well download them and post them to this thread
 
I hope you don't have too, but I understand. It is a clean car and that's definitely a REAL good price for it.
 
moparlee said:
I hope you don't have too, but I understand. It is a clean car and that's definitely a REAL good price for it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have everything to complete the car except the interior. I have the buckets that will need to be covered.
 
Thought I'd posdt an update on where I'm at with the car. As you can see it's on the ground now. Taking it over to my buddies body shop to install the glass with the new rubber gaskets and the remainder of the rear stainless trim. Also will get it up on the lift to button eberything up under the car before it go's in for an exhaust system. Jury is still out as to how I want to do the exhaust.

MVC-005F.JPG


MVC-006F.JPG


MVC-007F.JPG
 
Great looking. I hope you fabbbed you brakes lines already. It's a ***** with the tti headers in already trust me. I did my lines before I put the motor in the car. Just a thought. I love the 2.5" TTI exhaust system but you can get away with cheaper.
Dave
 
daves66valiant said:
Great looking. I hope you fabbbed you brakes lines already. It's a ***** with the tti headers in already trust me. I did my lines before I put the motor in the car. Just a thought. I love the 2.5" TTI exhaust system but you can get away with cheaper.
Dave
Click to expand...


Yeah, the lines are already bent. I removed the MC and lines to make it a little easier to put the motor in. The line running from the MC to the passenger side was re-routed to the front of the K member. Next time I will install the motor from the bottom. It was a PITA getting that Milodon pan to clear the K member and this was after I modified it.
 
yep installing from the bottom is the only way to go for sure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top