Update on My 64 Dart project

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Well I finally got the mockup done and installed the driver side header. It's not as bad as I thought. Took me two hours to figure out I had the motor mounts backwards. Onece I switched them the motor went right in. The brake line that runs across the firewall has to me moved, way too close to the header pipe. I was going to do this anyway sice NHRA rules require it if you run a 4 speed without a scattershield. The stock distrobution block has top go, way to close to the headers. I'll be running a stock 67-72 valve mounted up by the master cylinder. I still need to trim the casting that sticks out on the bell housing (forgot that part). It looks like I may not have to notch the K member to clear the pan. I used a stock on on the mockup and looking at the Milodon pan the sump setrs back further that the stock pan. I'll do some measuring just to be sure. Here are some pictures. Oh any by the way I installed the driver side header from the top. I had to remove the mastercylinder, went right in. On a side note It tried several mini starters and they didn't work so I guess I'll be springing for the adjustable starter.

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Dart4forte,
I'm not too far behind you. I was hoping I didn't have to move the stock distribution block for the headers but I figured I needed to anyways. Just gotta find a good spot for it. I'll be watch your progress for sure. Yeah that tab in the housing is key ehh. My setup is quite different. I think our two restos could be combined into a nice how to on the tti's. Keep it up bro.
-Dave
 
dart4forte said:
Well I finally got the mockup done and installed the driver side header. It's not as bad as I thought. Took me two hours to figure out I had the motor mounts backwards. Onece I switched them the motor went right in. The brake line that runs across the firewall has to me moved, way too close to the header pipe. I was going to do this anyway sice NHRA rules require it if you run a 4 speed without a scattershield. The stock distrobution block has top go, way to close to the headers. I'll be running a stock 67-72 valve mounted up by the master cylinder. I still need to trim the casting that sticks out on the bell housing (forgot that part). It looks like I may not have to notch the K member to clear the pan. I used a stock on on the mockup and looking at the Milodon pan the sump setrs back further that the stock pan. I'll do some measuring just to be sure. Here are some pictures. Oh any by the way I installed the driver side header from the top. I had to remove the mastercylinder, went right in. On a side note It tried several mini starters and they didn't work so I guess I'll be springing for the adjustable starter.
Click to expand...


Have you found anywhere with a better price on the adjustable starter than what it sells for at TTI?


Which pan did you go with? Ya know when people mention notching the K member I went and looked on several sites pictures of what people did, and a few cars around town. On 63-64 the K frame is rounder, on later models it has a lip that sticks out an inch or so. I think that is what is getting notched.. OH, and is the drag link gonna clear the new pan too?
I started pulling apart my 64 Dart last week and the new 416 is almost finished. I am going to the Mopars at the strip (cant wait) hope to see more cars and get a few more ideas. Anyway I am going to use the new A body TTI headers and I am thinking I may pitch the power steering in the Dart and get a manual box. I saw that there is an adatpter from several sources. I am not sure what all is need if I go manual, but man it is a tight fit on those headers!

On a side note, I had not worked on my car for a few years, I gotta tell you, with the 727 behind a small block in a 64 Dart it is a &!*^&% just to get the starter out. Man and even the factory manifolds are a pain too when they are rusted on!

Well finished the heads tonight and can sleep a little better, next week end the engine and tranny are comming out, All I have left is the crossmember to unbolt and lift it out. Then I will redo the trans.

Your car dart4forte has gotten me fired up! Oh by the way, I have seen drawings and mods on TTI's site and here too for the crossmember mods for dual ex.

I do not see why I would need to do that on my car? Both sides of the member are very close to the floor now. I do not see what would be gained on my Dart for pipe clearances? Any thoughts on this.. :scratch:

If you look at this picture, mine already looks like the tighter to the floor version on both sides. I wonder if it is becasue at one time when I put in the 4spd? Or mybe it was becasue mine was a factory Calif. GT. It came with dual exh. Very rare, most all Darts were single. I know for a fact becasue I am the 2nd owner, it was my grand mothers Dart. But heck so many years ago I can not remmeber if I picked up a 4spd member or I cut it? But my duals fit fine just the same Man I am getting old... :glasses6: here is the link..
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Early A-body Hdrs and Exh/4. Crossmember Modification.pdf
 
Dart4forte, I wonder if you would have more room on your fire wall if you put the motor mounts behind the lugs on the motor like this.

Lee

Lee 7.jpg


Lee 8.jpg
 
I believe behind the motor is how they come from the factory, so I agree with Moparlee. The ears on the motor are usually slightly contoured suggesting the mounts go on the back/inside.

478.jpg
 
djwhog said:
Have you found anywhere with a better price on the adjustable starter than what it sells for at TTI?


Which pan did you go with? Ya know when people mention notching the K member I went and looked on several sites pictures of what people did, and a few cars around town. On 63-64 the K frame is rounder, on later models it has a lip that sticks out an inch or so. I think that is what is getting notched.. OH, and is the drag link gonna clear the new pan too?
I started pulling apart my 64 Dart last week and the new 416 is almost finished. I am going to the Mopars at the strip (cant wait) hope to see more cars and get a few more ideas. Anyway I am going to use the new A body TTI headers and I am thinking I may pitch the power steering in the Dart and get a manual box. I saw that there is an adatpter from several sources. I am not sure what all is need if I go manual, but man it is a tight fit on those headers!

On a side note, I had not worked on my car for a few years, I gotta tell you, with the 727 behind a small block in a 64 Dart it is a &!*^&% just to get the starter out. Man and even the factory manifolds are a pain too when they are rusted on!

Well finished the heads tonight and can sleep a little better, next week end the engine and tranny are comming out, All I have left is the crossmember to unbolt and lift it out. Then I will redo the trans.

Your car dart4forte has gotten me fired up! Oh by the way, I have seen drawings and mods on TTI's site and here too for the crossmember mods for dual ex.

I do not see why I would need to do that on my car? Both sides of the member are very close to the floor now. I do not see what would be gained on my Dart for pipe clearances? Any thoughts on this.. :scratch:

If you look at this picture, mine already looks like the tighter to the floor version on both sides. I wonder if it is becasue at one time when I put in the 4spd? Or mybe it was becasue mine was a factory Calif. GT. It came with dual exh. Very rare, most all Darts were single. I know for a fact becasue I am the 2nd owner, it was my grand mothers Dart. But heck so many years ago I can not remmeber if I picked up a 4spd member or I cut it? But my duals fit fine just the same Man I am getting old... :glasses6: here is the link..
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Early A-body Hdrs and Exh/4. Crossmember Modification.pdf
Click to expand...


I found the starter on Summit for little less than what TTI wants. I haven't tried Jegs yet.

Having a manual box surely helps for clearance. You can get a solid adapter from Firm feel to mate the power steering shaft to the manual box. Too bad, I just sold one. As far as the cross member goes I'm thinking that the 4 speed car uses a different crossmember. Maybe someone here can clear that up. The tail shaft keeps me from moving the CM upward. I'm using an alluminum tail shaft and it may be different. I need to clean up the welds where the cross member was notched.
 
moparlee said:
Dart4forte, I wonder if you would have more room on your fire wall if you put the motor mounts behind the lugs on the motor like this.

Lee
Click to expand...

Man, good observation!!! Talk about a blinding flash of the obvious. It never crossed my mind. Thanks for the tip. I'll still need to move the brake lines to be in NHRA compliance. I did some thinking last night and going with the distribution valve mounted up by the M/C would be the way to go. It's just too tight along the frame rail for the lines to be away from the headers.
 
This is an original 273 mount on a late seventies 360. You can also see where you need to either weld a piece onto the 273 mount, or use washers or a spacer to make up the width difference.

360 Motor mounts.jpg
 
dart4forte said:
Man, good observation!!! Talk about a blinding flash of the obvious. It never crossed my mind. Thanks for the tip. I'll still need to move the brake lines to be in NHRA compliance. I did some thinking last night and going with the distribution valve mounted up by the M/C would be the way to go. It's just too tight along the frame rail for the lines to be away from the headers.
Click to expand...
I thought of making my own little bracket like what they use on the chebbies and ferds that mounts to the master cylinder base. I didn't buy the prebent line kit for this reason.

Was your car originally a column shift or floor shift model. Mine is an automatic column shift and since I have the five speed I'll be fine with the tti's. Although, I am wondering if the automatic column shift levers and steering shaft will get in the way and I will need to cut or remove them to clear the headers at the firewall. Supppper tight these headers. :blackeye:
 
OldVart said:
This is an original 273 mount on a late seventies 360. You can also see where you need to either weld a piece onto the 273 mount, or use washers or a spacer to make up the width difference.
Click to expand...

Great pic Sid
 
daves66valiant said:
I thought of making my own little bracket like what they use on the chebbies and ferds that mounts to the master cylinder base. I didn't buy the prebent line kit for this reason.

Was your car originally a column shift or floor shift model. Mine is an automatic column shift and since I have the five speed I'll be fine with the tti's. Although, I am wondering if the automatic column shift levers and steering shaft will get in the way and I will need to cut or remove them to clear the headers at the firewall. Supppper tight these headers. :blackeye:
Click to expand...

My Dart is a 170, bare bones, no options. It was a S/6, three on the tree. I detrimmed the car and only left a few pices of chrome to braek up the body. I swaped out the column and modified of with a roller bearing support shaft and Flaming River U-joint. I'll see about getting you a pic. My buddy who raced Dart 273/4pseed back in the 70's confirmed i did have the motor mounts installed wrong. Next year, after I get it running I may go with a front straight axle for the old school look.
 
We took the mock-up mule motor out today and decided we had to see first hand if the good motor will fit with the Milodon pan. Well after some coaxing of the long block without the bell housing we found it didn't fit. I went ahead and marked the K member as to where it needs to be notched. Anyway I went over to my buddies shop and he has an old Mopar Chassis book. We looked it up and it does show a diagram of where to notch the K frame. Stay tuned for some pics later this week.
 
I hope that my 63 Dart 170 turns out as nice as your car. I also have been thinking about a straight axle down the road.

Between your car, Daves66valiant, and Moparlee's cars you have most upgrades and modifications covered.

It would be nice if the pics of your cars were concentrated in one place. I capture them whenever I see them.
Thanks to all of you!!


Mike
 
az426hemi said:
I hope that my 63 Dart 170 turns out as nice as your car. I also have been thinking about a straight axle down the road.

Between your car, Daves66valiant, and Moparlee's cars you have most upgrades and modifications covered.

It would be nice if the pics of your cars were concentrated in one place. I capture them whenever I see them.
Thanks to all of you!!


Mike
Click to expand...

Exactly what would you like to see or ask? I'd like for the mods to tack it up at the top but I don't know how to get ahold of a mod.
 
good deal on the sticky. just hope my post is helpful to those willing to venture in the relm of the 5-speed swap.
 
A sticky for your Dart and Dave's Valiant would be great!!

There are useful upgrades and tips for all of us.


Mike
 
az426hemi said:
A sticky for your Dart and Dave's Valiant would be great!!

There are useful upgrades and tips for all of us.


Mike
Click to expand...

I sent a request to the administrator asking that those two threads be stickied.
 
As some of you that have been following this thread know I test fitted the engine and found that I need to modify the K member in order for the engine to fit with the Milodon pan. I also modified the trans tunnel to allow for more wiggle room when installing the engine using both the 340 bell as well as the scattershield which I'll most likely go to for safety sake. I trailered the car over to my buddy Fran shop on Monday where he will do the modifacation. We'll leave the K member attached to the body since that makes the perfect jig and reduces the risk of warpage. I still need to do some grinding on the tranny crossmember in order for it to fit. I'll try and get some pics this evening of the progress on the K member.
 
dart4forte said:
As some of you that have been following this thread know I test fitted the engine and found that I need to modify the K member in order for the engine to fit with the Milodon pan. I also modified the trans tunnel to allow for more wiggle room when installing the engine using both the 340 bell as well as the scattershield which I'll most likely go to for safety sake. I trailered the car over to my buddy Fran shop on Monday where he will do the modifacation. We'll leave the K member attached to the body since that makes the perfect jig and reduces the risk of warpage. I still need to do some grinding on the tranny crossmember in order for it to fit. I'll try and get some pics this evening of the progress on the K member.
Click to expand...

I finally got the car back to the shop on Saturday. It was raining quite a bit so I din't get a chance to get some pics until today. As you can see by the pics I gained quite a bit of room so that the deep sump on the Milodon pan will clear when installing the motor. Also cleaned up the tunnel a but. You can see where the tunnel was clearance to allow wiggle room while installing the motor

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moparlee said:
Nice, what kind of pan are your running again?

Lee
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Milodon 8 Qt pan. The problem is that the sump kicks out toward the front of the pan and would not clear the K-member.
 
Ya, that scared me on getting that pan. I ended up using the Moroso pan and it cleared fine. Hangs low, but clears the K-member.

Nice job.

Lee
 
Where are you getting all your rubber and seals from? How about interior screw kits ( I don't know if you're even there yet... ) ? I'm hoping to post some pictures of my '64 GT in progress as I get the ball rolling a little more.
 
urchinhead said:
Where are you getting all your rubber and seals from? How about interior screw kits ( I don't know if you're even there yet... ) ? I'm hoping to post some pictures of my '64 GT in progress as I get the ball rolling a little more.
Click to expand...

Mr G's for the screw kits, interior/exterior and Yearone, Stephens, Metro etc. for the other misc parts
 
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