khuebner250
Well-Known Member
I modified my trans crossover and trans mount. I ended up cutting out the sides of the channel and rewelding to keep as much strength as possible.
US Car Tool A518 Cross member
- Thread starter plumkrazee70
- Start date
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Nice work 250
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
I like this idea, considered this for a long time....Question,
I see the floor shifter issue will need to be dealt with (bracket for the floor shift rod does not have a location to bolt onto the A500-518) What are some ideas to solve this? I did see one idea in pictures (welding the bracket to the trans X member) As well, what are you using for the throttle kick down , linkage or cable, locker?
I see the floor shifter issue will need to be dealt with (bracket for the floor shift rod does not have a location to bolt onto the A500-518) What are some ideas to solve this? I did see one idea in pictures (welding the bracket to the trans X member) As well, what are you using for the throttle kick down , linkage or cable, locker?
Project`67 Dart GT 340 A500
Got pic on here how I did it, works great . Nick down is same as stock.
Got pic on here how I did it, works great . Nick down is same as stock.
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
Yes, I saw the pictures..looks good....I was looking around to see if anyone else had done this another way? Always good ideas here.... my thought was to weld (alum) a bracket to bolt on the factory bracket as original. IM not sure if this would work or not? Alum weld Tig weld it.....your way works and seems simple enough. What about the kick down?
I was little worried about mounting to mount instead of trans like factory due to flex . But thought I would try it since my car and not testing on a customer s and works great after many miles no problem at all. Kick down is stock .
khuebner250
Well-Known Member
I haven't thought that far ahead. I was trying to get everything mocked up and the chassis squared away before it went to body. But will probably go the cable route.
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
Ok, great...good to know! I was thinking about the movement of the trans and body affecting the linkage as well...If it works great!
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
Yes, the kickdown , I was thinking the Lokar Cable kickdown may work? I know the original kickdown for the A500-518 is a cable.....need to investigate this. For my car I want a 518 behind a 440... so I would need the adaptor ring and crank spacer, I have a friend who put a 518 and 440 in a 56 Plymouth...but he isn't finished yet and the kickdown and shifter (Colum shift) is not completed. I am looking at floor shifted same as you.
MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
I spoke with Chris at US Car Tool yesterday about the 518 cross member. He stated clearly the sheet metal in the tunnel would not have to be removed with the use of their Crossmember. I asked him if they have additional pictures of the tranny installed or how many total cars their shop has installed this in and he said one. The customer’s Dart was the reason they developed the cross member.
He then went into more detail stating the following disclaimers
- all vehicles have variation is the tunnel area
- hammering on the tunnel may be necessary
- grinding on the tranny to releave ribs and protrusions to mitigate interferences
- interferences with the speedometer cable or elections speed sensor will have to be overcome, may require metal work on their bracket depending on the customers parts used to get them to fit
- drive line angles have to be checked and adjusted due to engine cradle and motor mount variations (differences k member vs aftermarket k member QA1)
- warned that there will be several trial fitting several attempts to get the tranny to fit.
- not required but recommended - remove the pinched and spot welded seam above the Bellhousing and motor. They weld the seam 100% solid from the the inside to make the car more ridged and to allow them to remove the seam. At the minimum he recommended bending the seam forward towards the engine bay where the bolts are located to faciataite bolt up.
The moral of the story. They have installed one on a custom build where they has the car 100% stripped down and sold many that have not been returned. This is not a bolt in and go install. Expect tweaking and problem solving to get the tranny in the car. Think ahead or wait to purchase the components you are going to use for the TV lever, gear selector and speedo cable.
I’m going to buy one but I’m going into it with my eye wide open.
He then went into more detail stating the following disclaimers
- all vehicles have variation is the tunnel area
- hammering on the tunnel may be necessary
- grinding on the tranny to releave ribs and protrusions to mitigate interferences
- interferences with the speedometer cable or elections speed sensor will have to be overcome, may require metal work on their bracket depending on the customers parts used to get them to fit
- drive line angles have to be checked and adjusted due to engine cradle and motor mount variations (differences k member vs aftermarket k member QA1)
- warned that there will be several trial fitting several attempts to get the tranny to fit.
- not required but recommended - remove the pinched and spot welded seam above the Bellhousing and motor. They weld the seam 100% solid from the the inside to make the car more ridged and to allow them to remove the seam. At the minimum he recommended bending the seam forward towards the engine bay where the bolts are located to faciataite bolt up.
The moral of the story. They have installed one on a custom build where they has the car 100% stripped down and sold many that have not been returned. This is not a bolt in and go install. Expect tweaking and problem solving to get the tranny in the car. Think ahead or wait to purchase the components you are going to use for the TV lever, gear selector and speedo cable.
I’m going to buy one but I’m going into it with my eye wide open.
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I figured that was the case. I haven't installed mine yet, but I do have it.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Old thread I know, but curious if you still think the swap was worth the sacrifice.
I’ve seen some “post” concerns about removing that much meat from the cross member. And they also comment that the A518 isnt suitable for to much torque. I’m highly interested in this mod for a 360 (400+hp est.) I’m building for my 74 Dart Sport, and think with a few upgrades to the A518, this is a good option. Buttttt, I’m equally concerned about cutting the floor for a tranny that won’t likely withstand the HP and Torque.
Would welcome any feedback and updates on how yours is holding up......
I’ve seen some “post” concerns about removing that much meat from the cross member. And they also comment that the A518 isnt suitable for to much torque. I’m highly interested in this mod for a 360 (400+hp est.) I’m building for my 74 Dart Sport, and think with a few upgrades to the A518, this is a good option. Buttttt, I’m equally concerned about cutting the floor for a tranny that won’t likely withstand the HP and Torque.
Would welcome any feedback and updates on how yours is holding up......
khuebner250
Well-Known Member
This is the same tranny that's behind a Cummins. There are guys putting 1000+LbFt through built A518's all over the place. I'm building my A500 to go behind my 414 stoker, I'm looking to make 500+ HP/TQ. I'm not worried.
MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
The gvrw of a 1991 dodge Dakota where my A500 came is 5710lbs. My barracuda is 3200 pounds. For what it is worth the average A Body is 2500lbs less. That will help the tranny to some degree. I have not installed mine yet. Waiting for warmer weather.
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MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
I understand you concerns about cutting the crossmemeber. My opinion on the matter is you have to look at the car as a whole and not just localized in that area. You still have the firewall, floor pan and roof structure. The best compensation for removing the center tunnel ware the pictures FABO members posted below.
One added subframe connectors and structural driveshaft hoop pictured below. And the other shortened the height of the tunnel channel leaving it entact but shorter. I think both Strategies will help control localized flexing of the sheetmetal in the tunnel to keep the spot welds in that area from tearing. I’m going to do both. This is just my opinion and I’m not engineer.
khuebner250
Well-Known Member
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
Like the later of the 2 options. But can see where doing both could really mitigate any negative from pulling out the unwanted material. Surely 3/8th flat bar is as strong or better than the rolled edge being removed in these pictures....
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
That looks really good. Of course I’ve been pondering this all day. As mentioned above, I think the flat bar is likely an upgrade to the cross member......
MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
Stress is like water it is dynamic and it changes in conditions a structure is placed in. I know we all only want to fix stuff once but if you have the skills to make this modifications. You have the skills to fix anything that brake or fails afterward. I think any reasonable repair or accommodation is better than nothing. I say use the materials you can acquire locally and since we can’t test it live and learn.
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
To your point, if I have the skill to take it out, surly I can put it back. Think I will be doing this mod. I think down the road I will be much happier this way especially since it’s a real option. Have both tranny parked on the shelf in the shop......
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
@TrailBeast Also did this swap. He has a warmed over magnum and didn't replace the upper hoop, rather he tied in his sub from connectors to the torsion bar cross member, which is what I plan on doing.
383Scampman
Well-Known Member
This is GREAT information . I wish one of you would put this all together and put in a sticky . Especially the stuff from Trailbeast and Plumkrazee70. Btw the v-6, 48rh will bolt to a v-8 .
Ronald C.
Well-Known Member
would be great to see some of his "Post Mod" pictures as well....
MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
I’ll see will see what I can get done with the sticky. I had the admin combine several posts into a how to.
Your comments got me thinking. We have to remember the tranny crossmember is bolted in and will carry alot of the stress. We have to control the amount of slop between the bolt hole in the remaining crossmember and the bolts used to attach the crossmember. This will reduce localized flexing in the tunnel.
I’m now going to install a tube inside the cross member that matches to the OD of the bolt used to mount the cross memeber for the tranny. This will reduce the body flex and leverage the stiffness of the US CAR TOOL crossmember.
Your comments got me thinking. We have to remember the tranny crossmember is bolted in and will carry alot of the stress. We have to control the amount of slop between the bolt hole in the remaining crossmember and the bolts used to attach the crossmember. This will reduce localized flexing in the tunnel.
I’m now going to install a tube inside the cross member that matches to the OD of the bolt used to mount the cross memeber for the tranny. This will reduce the body flex and leverage the stiffness of the US CAR TOOL crossmember.
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Awesome. What trans mount is that?
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