Valve train geometry
- Thread starter N1ce2k1llu
- Start date
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Noooo silly. I didn't say that. I meant the stands were milled off to begin with, allowing the builder to put the correct stands on the head. I think the angle is an illusion from the valve cover rail being angled, not the stand. By the way, I accidently hit disagree when I was trying to hit reply. Doh!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
you can put the hole for the shafts wherever it needs to be no matter what the angle
LOOKS GREAT MIKE
takes me back to 4 bolt valve cover days
we had to build stands for every high spring rate motor
the stock stands were not that strong and hard to modify with shims etc- well ok- but to offset...
LOOKS GREAT MIKE
takes me back to 4 bolt valve cover days
we had to build stands for every high spring rate motor
the stock stands were not that strong and hard to modify with shims etc- well ok- but to offset...
moper
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="B3RE, post: 1972191081, member: 31820" The way every Mopar head should come.[/QUOTE]
True 'dat
True 'dat
famous bob
mopar misfit
True 'dat[/QUOTE]
I never knew that this was as big a problem. The pics look just like my raised port heads as far as the valve / rockers are concerned.
moper
Well-Known Member
The saddle design is what makes things difficult. Shaft blocks are the best and easiest way to address these problem which is why most race heads and race rocker assemblies com that way.
Mike's custom shim approach is the easiest-on-the-budget way to address the issues with the saddle type stands after the valve job has been completed.
Mike's custom shim approach is the easiest-on-the-budget way to address the issues with the saddle type stands after the valve job has been completed.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Spoken for truth.
The problem with the blocks is getting guys to understand why you need to do it and then the cost.
It's even more difficult when a guy spends an assload of money on heads and valve gear and the seller tells them it's bolt on stuff and then you tell them it isn't. And then the seller tells them you wrecked their heads.
Thank GOD Mike came along and made his shims. Guys are much more likely to use his system than conver to blocks.
Now we just have to convince these guys their geometry needs to be corrected.
This is a very interesting thread. I messed with my 273 when I put it together just because it didn't look right. I thought it was just because of the combination of new parts and machining that caused the problem. I made it a bit better with shaft shims and different pushrods. After reading this thread I would do it different if I were to do it again.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you don't mind buying new pushrods you can fix it now. Those rockers are a bit different than a roller tipped rocker. You may want to send Mike a picture of what you have and see what he thinks.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
tool
pic at on seat, half lift, full lift and stripe width- use Prussian blue or even a marker
pic at on seat, half lift, full lift and stripe width- use Prussian blue or even a marker
Cal Tonsley
Well-Known Member
I’ve been thinking about this and one approach that may be worth thinking about could be for B3RE to work closely with one or two specialist suppliers that might be prepared to bundle an upgrade package as a pre paid voucher for one of Mikes kits with the sale of a cyl head / rocker combo!
Not perfect but if such a package existed the awareness and take up would begin to grow. Some digital press articles in something like Mopar Connection would be helpful as well.
Anyway just my 2 cents worth!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I'm all for anything that gets the Chrysler guys to fix their geometry. I'm sure Mike is all about that too, or he wouldn't have went out of his way to develop it, and then post it on web sites and then have people who don't know the half of what Mike has forgotten argue with him and tell him how wrong he was.
That's how I found him. Just dumb luck on my part. But when I fugured out how simple and effective his stuff is, I bought my kit. And I tell anyone who will listen to let Mike help them.
THANK YOU MIKE.
The picture I posted was before the shims. I didn't like the angle of the rocker pad on the valve stem. I thought it should be a bit closer to level. The only way to do that is to shim the shafts up, grind the valve tips, or grind the rocker pads. The pushrod checker is in the photo. I wanted a few exposed adjuster threads on both ends. If you jack the shaft up it takes a tiny bit of angle out of the longer pushrod also. I wasn't too smart and I didn't compare valve length between the stockers and replacements. They almost look too long.
Cal Tonsley
Well-Known Member
Yes, you’re right, it’s now up to us to help spread the word!
Went through this ,with my 5.9 Magnum ...
A 1.5 Chevy roller rocker ,a Crane Cams stud conversion stud kit, custom length pushes ,and V.W. lash caps ,gave me proper sweep ,and minimal on top.
No one spends money ,and time ...to do it right . Next to " proper quench " ,the most important thing. Just opine, here.
j par
Well-hung Member
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Glad you found this thread.
If you can, just pick the shaft up and move it back and see if you can get a picture of what that looks like. I know some guys use washers under the shaft and just bolt the shafts down until it bends the washer fits the saddle, but that can break the saddle off the head. Any way you can safely raise the shafts and get a look will help.
I believe he has shims.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
j par
Well-hung Member
I'm trying to keep it all on the pro Comp Speedmaster thread as that started by asking about them to buying them to now putting them into use...
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
anyone else hear Bily Godbout say he liked 30% better than mid lift? (AERA Webinar)
My thought is "what is he trying to cover up"?
My thought is "what is he trying to cover up"?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a discussion that I think B3 published, where the 2/3 lift point was used for the idea of minimizing scrub forces on the valve with old non-roller type rockers. Like 80 years ago!
The idea was that at the top of the lift cycle, the spring forces are their highest, so to compensate for that, then the sideways motion in the upper part of the rocker motion is made less, and the resulting net side force on the valve (due to the friction of the rocker tip scrubbing across the valve) was made less. The largest scrubbing motion was then moved to the bottom of the lift cycle, where the lower spring forces resulted in less net friction related side force on the valve.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
right nm
however Billy G has the perpendicular point at 1/3 lift not 2/3
similar to the way the Crane "quick lift" rockers worked
I can picture the difficulty in getting the lifter down genty with either of these designs
it does give less ratio/leverage going over the nose
as well as quite a bit less lift
however Billy G has the perpendicular point at 1/3 lift not 2/3
similar to the way the Crane "quick lift" rockers worked
I can picture the difficulty in getting the lifter down genty with either of these designs
it does give less ratio/leverage going over the nose
as well as quite a bit less lift
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