Not Pertronix but Mopar Electronic.
Very Confused!
- Thread starter bloodyholly
- Start date
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Thanks. It has a nats *** gap
It's supposed to be like .008 measured with a brass feeler gauge. Bewy was addressing your running issue and not your overcharging issue.
Added ground wire from reg to MC
Might be a slight change in the over charging symptom. Slightly lower.
Might be a slight change in the over charging symptom. Slightly lower.
So it seems like the regulator is telling the alternator to put more coal on the fire when it’s not needed.
Alternator reg and batt when running are seeing around the same number 16 ish.
Regulator to blame ya?
What other components have a hand in this deal?
Alternator reg and batt when running are seeing around the same number 16 ish.
Regulator to blame ya?
What other components have a hand in this deal?
Replaced the block to body ground with something a little better than the one that was there.
And a couple random photos of the alt.
It’s got to be the regulator.
And a couple random photos of the alt.
It’s got to be the regulator.
Ok,
So the alternator gauge is a little twitchy. Like Del said it should read a little above at startup and settle to the middle after a few seconds.
It goes up a little but then settles into a jumpy twitchy type rhythm in the middle.
So the alternator gauge is a little twitchy. Like Del said it should read a little above at startup and settle to the middle after a few seconds.
It goes up a little but then settles into a jumpy twitchy type rhythm in the middle.
Connections and grounds look good. I would bet regulator. I would have to read up on how to test one. Is it a points type or a electronic look alike? I installed one of those on my 66 and fried tha battery and burned out some light bulbs from overcharging. Bad ground at the regulator attaching screws. I looks like your external ground has addressed that issue though.
Put on old reg.
Charging went down to 14.8 ish
But the reg gets a bit warm and has a burnt smell.
Charging went down to 14.8 ish
But the reg gets a bit warm and has a burnt smell.
So if I understand correctly, when the voltage readings were 16.8 to 16.9, the engine was at slow idle, and the ammeter was showing just a little charging on and off?
I'll try Mike. Hopefully website doesn't crash my computer.
Based on Clementine's voltage measurements, I too would suspect the regulator is full fielding the rotor.
What throws me is the voltage should follow rpm up, and the battery should be getting overcharged (Point toward C on the ammeter).
One reason it may not show overcharge would be damage to battery feed - thus restricting the current the battery would otherwise take.
Where to start?
If it was me, I'd get the alternator and check it out. -> Field current draw test and check for shorts and opens.
You know I don't like these new rebuilt alternators which draw 5 to 7 amps.
But I don't think that's the reason the voltage is high. Although it may have been a contributor to the problem.
I'd pop the cover of the regulator and see if see if the points are stuck.
Or if its a transistorized version, change it out. Hate to say that, but that's a quick check. Before doing that, could disconnect the ignition feed to the regulator (don't let the connector touch ground!!). That should kill the alternator field. If not there is a cross wire issue. I just doubt that on a '67
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
There's two resistors on the bottom.
Them new rebuilt alternators often draw twice the current of the factory built ones.
What’s this gap supposed to be?
New reg
New reg
Field Current Draw Test:
Its in the shop manuals.
And here's my description with drawing.
www.forabodiesonly.com
and photos of a bench test
www.forabodiesonly.com
You'll need a multi meter that can handle up to 10 amps.
Its in the shop manuals.
And here's my description with drawing.
Charging System Question
Before you blow up a new regulator, you might want to jump into "the book" and do a field current check. make sure the wiring looks good (no shorts) and that the brushes are not headed toward a problem. Will do. Thanks Del.....and all the rest of you as well. It's much appreciated.
www.forabodiesonly.com
and photos of a bench test
rebuilding an alt
70's squareback. can I rebuild this at home & if so what areas do I attack? I have one that O'reillys says is only putting out a few volts iirc. O'reillys has a pulley puller if needed. thank you for your time. RR
www.forabodiesonly.com
You'll need a multi meter that can handle up to 10 amps.
Lighter spring on the old reg
Off the top of my head, zero. This lets full current flow to the alternator's rotor.
When the electromagnetic gets some juice, the points get opened. The current to the rotor must go through a resistor.
With more juice, the other points get contact and no juice flows out to the rotor.
illustration added
Increasing system voltage increases power of the electromagnetic coil.
Last edited:
That illustration is from the 1966 Alternator and Regulator MTSC
mymopar.com
One can adjust the spring tension (see page 12), but in this case it seems like its waaayyyy offf.
Another possibility is the fusible link got blown. Therefore the electromagnetic never works. (page 5)
Air gap between the point arm and the coil is on page 13.
Browse MTSC by Model Year – 1966 – MyMopar
mymopar.com
One can adjust the spring tension (see page 12), but in this case it seems like its waaayyyy offf.
Another possibility is the fusible link got blown. Therefore the electromagnetic never works. (page 5)
Air gap between the point arm and the coil is on page 13.
Ok.
Car had to go to work. Left him charging at 14. The ammeter gauge calmed down too. He is running with old reg. I’ll look into the fusible link situation.
Thanks fellas. I’ll check it again this week.
I’ll look at ammeter bypass as well?
Car had to go to work. Left him charging at 14. The ammeter gauge calmed down too. He is running with old reg. I’ll look into the fusible link situation.
Thanks fellas. I’ll check it again this week.
I’ll look at ammeter bypass as well?
After you get the charging fault figured out, then it would be worth doing some checks for resistance in the wiring.
If nothing visuallly obvious, then test for voltage differences like you did before. Note the battery charging rate (on the ammeter)
When the battery is recharged, repeat with lights on and maybe the heater fan. That will show resistance in the alternator output line.
If nothing visuallly obvious, then test for voltage differences like you did before. Note the battery charging rate (on the ammeter)
When the battery is recharged, repeat with lights on and maybe the heater fan. That will show resistance in the alternator output line.
In my opinion, its totally unneccesary on an otherwise stock electrical system and can lead to problems.
Some years (early 70s) seem to have been more prone to failure due to water leakage and maybe ammeter design. Even Redfish had said he'd not seen problem in the rally dashes.
One thing an ammeter does that a voltmeter can not is show is how much the battery is recharging or discharging.
With a voltmeter the driver can only assume the battery is charging when the voltage is around 14 V.
Conversely, an ammeter can only give clues about the alternator and regulator's performance. If the battery is discharging with the engine running, we know the engine is running on battery power.
So that's why having both a handheld voltmeter and a built in ammeter is most useful.
Just to be clear, the fusible link I mentioned in post 44 is inside the regulator. Different from the car's main fusible link on the battery feed,
With this, even if the magnetic coil pulls the points down, with the link to ground, electrons will then go through the rotorto get to ground. This is the same as when the points are in the middle between the contacts.
With this, even if the magnetic coil pulls the points down, with the link to ground, electrons will then go through the rotorto get to ground. This is the same as when the points are in the middle between the contacts.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Guys in my entire life, I have NEVER felt the need to adjust a mech. regulator. And the old school ones were not THAT unreliable. The modern ones, china etc are likely "ungood." I am SURPRISED you have a mech because most the parts store replacements are actually electronic in an mechanical looking housing.
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