That's a big help to us.
Someone "upgraded" to 1970s ignition and alternator.
Ignition is not the issue, at least not directly, so lets focus on the alternator and alternator circuit.
Regulator.
This reg is used with a "grounded field" alternator.
Field is short for electromagnetic field. The electricity for the electromagnet is supplied through the regulator.
There's more of an explanation in the "sticky" thread about Identifying Alternators".
The white arrow points to the points. The upper points allow maximum current flow to the alternator's rotor. So if the arm is stuck in that position, that's the cause or at least part of it. Normally, as voltage goes up, more electricity flows through the copper winding and the electromagenetic pulls the arm down, interupting the circuit.
Powe out of the regulator should be through the green wire as shown. Power in should be from the ignition run (blue) and someone has changed the wire. Red wire's connector looks heat damaged.
This alternator is normally used with an "isolated field" regulator.
There are two brushes that go to the rotor. On an isolated field alternator, both brushes and their terminals are insulated.
When using this type of alternator with the grounded field regulator, one of those terminals, or the wire connecting is grounded. Pretty simple modification.
It looks to me like the green wire from your regulator goes to one brush. If so that's ok. But the brown wire goes where?
With your regulator the brown wire should go to a solid ground. The alternator housing is best.
But if goes anywhere other than a ground, then that's not right.
The other way to wire these is use a regulator where both wires connect to it. The sticky explains that. Since we see no other regulator, no reason to get into that now.
