W2 heads I think they are ready

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Wyrmrider said:
there are several adjuter shank lengths between your threads and your balls
yours look like long shanks
the 2-3 threads was for adjusters where the balls wewr right below the threads
imho best solution is ball and ball bushrod with cups in the adjusters
that gives you the longest pushrods and highest adjuster cup
yr has written on oiling your balls
it may be in this thread (i did not read lately & i'll try and find it
Reworking the 273 Adjustable Rockers
oiing is same problem
has anyony tried 7/16 tapered or dual tapered pshrods
get as stiff a rod as you can handel
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I’ve run 5/16-3/8 single and double taper, 7/16 straight and 3/8-7/16 double taper.

The double taper showed zero signs of distress shifting at 8800 like adjusters coming loose, short lash intervals and witness marks on the pushrods from rubbing the pushrod tunnels.
 
These are 5/16 x .116 wall 7.650 is the current length.
I probably could have got away with .083 wall as it’s rated to 700 open pressure, but I felt not a place to skimp on strength.
 
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watch a spintron even with a mild cam
the pushrods are long pushrods are going crazy
I knew yr's answer i just wanted to set him up where he could say it
right Krooser
 
So they measure from the bottom of the rocker to the pushrod cup .280” under .300”
So I’m assuming the 9/32 is probably to the end of the ball to rocker? So to short?
I get it Crane isn’t very clear on the 2-3 thread crap which is what I measured for.
 
12swinger said:
So they measure from the bottom of the rocker to the pushrod cup .280” under .300”
So I’m assuming the 9/32 is probably to the end of the ball to rocker? So to short?
I get it Crane isn’t very clear on the 2-3 thread crap which is what I measured for.
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Yes, end of the ball to the rocker should be the 9/32 measurement IF you have the oil hole where Chrysler put it.

I can’t remember seeing any Crane made MP rockers with the lowered hole, but the first set of Crane’s I ordered had it and I sent them back and got the rockers with the Chrylser oil hole location in them.
 
yellow rose said:
Yes, end of them all to,the rocker should be the 9/32 measurement IF you have the oil hole where CHRYSLER put it.

I can’t remember seeing any Crane made MP rockers with the lowered hole, but the first set of Crane’s I ordered had it and I sent them back and got the rockers with the Chrylser oil hole location in them.
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I remember awhile back I primed the pump, and rolled the engine over oiling looked pretty decent.
I’ll start it, and break it in, and make sure other issues don’t arise.
If all is Gucci it will get some .150-.200 longer pushrods. Should get it in the zone?
 
I bought these from Chicago connection 10 years ago or so. There new. I think he sold me the shafts as well.
I was intending to use them on some w5 heads. They deserve better then this garbage. I’d love to find some Norris rockers, maybe TD
 
12
keep us up to date because others like Krooser will shortly be going through the same process
did you go through YR's check and see if the oil holes in the rockers line up with the oil holes on the shafts procedure?
how much spring pressure?
at what point do those long adjusters break?
 
Wyrmrider said:
12
keep us up to date because others like Krooser will shortly be going through the same process
did you go through YR's check and see if the oil holes in the rockers line up with the oil holes on the shafts procedure?
how much spring pressure?
at what point do those long adjusters break?
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I did not. I guess I will though as it felt like one rocker was still contacting something. May need more clearance I almost hate these rockers.
I think around 220 on the seat, and around 600 open.
Won’t be racing or wrapping it up to 8,000 for awhile, as the car is a ways off.
I’m at the post office and I can hear across town a 340 Dart Swinger I built the engine, actually went through a ton of crap on that car, as I installed a msd new gauges, a new third member, detailed everything under the hood. He’s a retired steel hauler, and that car sounds amazing. .024 quench
 
All my parts were Mopar including the shafts. Yellow Rose is correct Mopar stuff is built wrong. At least my shafts were. My rocker holes were correct. I smoked my intake push rods ends until I understood what the hell was going on. My shafts had the holes drilled in the wrong places for the intake rockers to get oil on the push rod side. I just cut banana grooves in them to fix the problem. Also I used Comp Cams push rods. They make ones that you have to cut the correct length and put the end on. I can tell you they are hard as hell so if you go that route ordered extras you gonna screw at lest one up making them.
 
You would think the company that designed the **** it would be correct. Having the grind and cut brand new parts to fit is bull ****.
 
Hellrats said:
All my parts were Mopar including the shafts. Yellow Rose is correct Mopar stuff is built wrong. At least my shafts were. My rocker holes were correct. I smoked my intake push rods ends until I understood what the hell was going on. My shafts had the holes drilled in the wrong places for the intake rockers to get oil on the push rod side. I just cut banana grooves in them to fix the problem. Also I used Comp Cams push rods. They make ones that you have to cut the correct length and put the end on. I can tell you they are hard as hell so if you go that route ordered extras you gonna screw at lest one up making them.
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You can banana groove the oil holes that are in the incorrect location, but that only works up to a point. IIRC that’s about 240ish on the seat, depending on how aggressive the lobe is.

That’s why I just mock it up and move the holes. It’s a PITA but it’s just worth it to make sure the adjusters are getting oil.

It’s not only sad that Chrysler didn’t fix this, but they at least could have released a tech paper on it so end users would know.
 
I’m sure glad I was happy running 9.80’s with my W2 heads. Low rpm banana grooved shafts and go have fun. Some of you guys work to hard at this game
 
yellow rose said:
You can banana groove the oil holes that are in the incorrect location, but that only works up to a point. IIRC that’s about 240ish on the seat, depending on how aggressive the lobe is.

That’s why I just mock it up and move the holes. It’s a PITA but it’s just worth it to make sure the adjusters are getting oil.

It’s not only sad that Chrysler didn’t fix this, but they at least could have released a tech paper on it so end users would know.
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Just Edelbrock heads with 273 rockers, but my son and I drilled new holes for his because it is his only car. Hyd. roller with solid roller lifters. Around 180 on the seat. Checks lash twice a year.

I guess what I am saying is take YR's advice, it doesn't really take that much time to do, and it works.
 
BVoelzke said:
A few years ago we did a dyno manifold test on my W2 head 363 motor it had a gasket matched Strip Dominator we swapped on an out of the box Victor W2 and it was a 13 H.P. increase, my heads weren`t heavily ported. I still have the 363 ( 360 magnum short block W2 heads) it is being redone for lower compression ( 11.5 to 1 to 9 1/2 to 1 ) for pump gas. When I was building my current 408 ( R3 block ) I purchased a pair of W2 heads for the build but sold them to get engine builder recommended 360-1s , the 408 makes good H.P. and T.Q. for low compression more than I expected but I wish I would have kept the those W2s though. The pair of W2's I do have came off a complete 12 1/2 to 1 340 I bought over twenty years ago for $2400 a steal by todays standards ! My 363 actually made 22 more h.p. with less cam and compression then the 12 1/2 to 1 340 : 10.40s vs 10.80s in my 3150 lb. Dart. My current 408 has ran 10.69 a best but is ran on a throttle stop to run 11.50s for Sportsman Eliminator and 11.50 Index racing.


View attachment 1715516821
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Can we get a pic of your throttle stop setup.
 
Its a modified Moroso stop, I carry a 7/16 wrench behind the seat for quick adjustments its been very effective winning two track championships with the setup. Last year I tried a Willys adjustable plate system but couldn't get it to work properly on my combo so I went back to the bolt type system. Slows my car down from 10.70s to 11.50 @ 114 w/ 1.49-1.52 60 ft Shallow in bracket mode, 11.50 @ 114 w/ 1.60-62 60ft Deep in index mode. The Moroso stop bolts to the right rear carb stud, I found that it would move slightly and didn't want to overtighten the carb stud , so I went to a Jegs throttle cable bracket and drilled another hole in it by the carb stud so now the stop can't move with two bolts holding it


IMG_1226.jpg
 
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BVoelzke said:
Its a modified Moroso stop, I carry a 7/16 wrench behind the seat for quick adjustments its been very effective winning two track championships with the setup. Last year I tried a Willys adjustable plate system but couldn't get it to work properly on my combo so I went back to the bolt type system. Slows my car down from 10.70s to 11.50 @ 114 w/ 1.49-1.52 60 ft Shallow in bracket mode, 11.50 @ 114 w/ 1.60-62 60ft Deep in index mode. The Moroso stop bolts to the right rear carb stud, I found that it would move slightly and didn't want to overtighten the carb stud , so I went to a Jegs throttle cable bracket and drilled another hole in it by the carb stud so now the stop can't move with two bolts holding it


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IMG_1232.jpg
 
Yellow rose is correct holes don’t line up.
Exhaust is not far off, maybe a .100”
Intake is not even close of course, with either pair of shafts, both were new sets, one was w2-w5 and the others I’m not sure, billet shafts I think not even close either.

00EA304D-1E16-408D-9500-4783F3C6E510.jpeg
 
Wyrmrider said:
OP you have B3's kit what does he say about your brand of rockers and clearance?
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He didn’t have anything to say except when I mentioned if some Harland Sharp rockers would be a better match? He said no, they are worse as far as geometry goes.
Never brought up pushrod length, I just thought 2-3 threads is what you wanted showing. I was wrong. Or I should say Crane is wrong.
 
yellow rose said:
You can banana groove the oil holes that are in the incorrect location, but that only works up to a point. IIRC that’s about 240ish on the seat, depending on how aggressive the lobe is.

That’s why I just mock it up and move the holes. It’s a PITA but it’s just worth it to make sure the adjusters are getting oil.

It’s not only sad that Chrysler didn’t fix this, but they at least could have released a tech paper on it so end users would know.
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Ok yellow rose can you clarify for me about pushrod length.
I have always followed the old Mopar engine book for optimal pushrod length. But I always thought it was for optimal geometry.
You guys are saying that it was to make sure that those oiling hole line up properly and Pittsburg racer is saying the banana grooves help with this alignment, correct?
 
Duane said:
Ok yellow rose can you clarify for me about pushrod length.
I have always followed the old Mopar engine book for optimal pushrod length. But I always thought it was for optimal geometry.
You guys are saying that it was to make sure that those oiling hole line up properly and Pittsburg racer is saying the banana grooves help with this alignment, correct?
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All I was doing is spreading the available oil.
 
12 swinger
SURPRISE!!!
better now than later

IMHO Crane and their Quick Lift theory suck or as some say Quick Lift was a cover up of their wrong early lifter designs
somewhere the adjuster length got changed and they just kept selling rockers
lots or rockers have the adjusters NOT in line with the pushrod at half lift- puts a strain on the adjusters, cups hit, etc
btw the measurement from the bottom of the rocker to the bottom of the ball is for stock Iron rockers
Aluminum can be thicker or angled different and are all over the place
just the balls as high as you can without hitting , or notch some and go higher
of course the cup adjusters allow longer pushrods
do all this before drilling your holes
 
Don't know if this will help you but I found an old picture of my rocker/push rod set up. My push rods are a lot closer to the rocker than yours are.

Rockers.jpg
 
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