[WANTED] Wanted: Carter 4933 Carburetor (Rebuildable or Working)

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Indetrucks said:
Thanks Jeff, I have that pricey unit saved. Was hoping to find something a bit more affordable, but I may have to bite the bullet. Hey, by chance do you know what the (s) means at the end of the carb#? It looks like both of the carbs on eBay are 4933S's
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I did a quick search and it came back as a 70 340 4 gear...but no specifics on the S. @66fs will probably know and many others. Im pulling him into this thread for help. Toolmanmike might chime in as well. If I see something better for less Ill forward it to you...Good Luck with this
 
jeff alder said:
I did a quick search and it came back as a 70 340 4 gear...but no specifics on the S. @66fs will probably know and many others. Im pulling him into this thread for help. Toolmanmike might chime in as well. If I see something better for less Ill forward it to you...Good Luck with this
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Thanks so much for your help. Yes, I have a 340 4spd (CA) build car. Separate question, my car does NOT have AC, do I still need the idle solenoid?
 
jeff alder said:
what does the s mean on the end of a carter carb part number - Bing this is a good article
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Thanks, but I didn't really see where they explain if my 4speed w/out A/C requires the soloniod?

From that link on the (S) at the end
"Carter used the suffix letter S to denote assembly. Since all carburetors are composed of multiple parts, the letter S was appended to all carburetors using the traditional numbering system i.e. 938s."
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I am a little confused, they put the (S) at the end to denote assembly? Does that mean, all carbs put on assembly line cars got the (S), where as an over the counter purchase of the same carb did not get the (S)?
Thanks for your help, I'm pretty green to this stuff :)
 
Indetrucks said:
Thanks, but I didn't really see where they explain if my 4speed w/out A/C requires the soloniod?

From that link on the (S) at the end

I am a little confused, they put the (S) at the end to denote assembly? Does that mean, all carbs put on assembly line cars got the (S), where as an over the counter purchase of the same carb did not get the (S)?
Thanks for your help, I'm pretty green to this stuff :)
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Difference betweer Carter carb 2366S and 2366SA. There are multiple parts on the carter carb itself so the part number with the s is the complete assembly rather than just 1 part.
 
jeff alder said:
Difference betweer Carter carb 2366S and 2366SA. There are multiple parts on the carter carb itself so the part number with the s is the complete assembly rather than just 1 part.
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Got it, thanks! Today I learned
In Carter’s terminology, an individual part such as an idle mixture screw was a single part; whereas two or more individual parts sold together such as a needle, seat, and gasket were sold as an “assembly”. Carter used the suffix letter S to denote assembly. Since all carburetors are composed of multiple parts, the letter S was appended to all carburetors using the traditional numbering system i.e. 938s. If a significant engineering change was made to the carburetor, the letter “A” would be appended to the S (i.e. 938sa). A second change would have the letter A replaced by the letter B (i.,e. 938sb). The highest engineering change of which I am aware is 4 i.e.938sd. Contrary to popular belief, the S DID NOT mean standard transmission, nor the SA automatic transmission."
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jeff alder said:
the idle stop solenoid stops dieseling (engine run on with key off) with or without A/C...
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Got it, so it sounds like all the carbs had it. Can I run the correct carter without it installed? Guess I don't understand how it stops the car from dieseling upon shut down? When shutting down a car, no gas pedal is applied anyway. Isn't the purpose of the solenoid to apply throttle for the AC idle up? Not sure how applying throttle also prevents dieseling?

While I have you, here's my dilemma
My factory 340 car is stock, except for the carb. Someone put a Holley on it, but the fast idle screw on the choke hits the stock intake manifold. A riser plate was then installed to help with clearance. Well, that raised everything so now the pie-tin is rubbing on the underside of the hood insulation which in turn rubbed the tin graphics off and put a nice circular indent in the insulation. I am trying to go back to stock, hence all my questions and need to an original carb :) I have contemplated hogging out the original intake manifold near the choke hole in order to clear the fast idle screw, but I'm not sure if anyone has done that with success and/or if that's a big "no no" in the Mopar world.

Have any suggestions?
 
4spdragtop said:
The S from what I've read recently means a revision. Or over the counter purchase
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It denotes the entire carburetor as the sum of many parts as one assembly...so the S means the carb is an assembly and the sum of several parts. The letter after the S would be the change or revision. I guess we both learned something today Mr. Steve...I thought the same thing you did! CHEERS
 
Indetrucks said:
Got it, so it sounds like all the carbs had it. Can I run the correct carter without it installed? Guess I don't understand how it stops the car from dieseling upon shut down? When shutting down a car, no gas pedal is applied anyway. Isn't the purpose of the solenoid to apply throttle for the AC idle up? Not sure how applying throttle also prevents dieseling?

While I have you, here's my dilemma
My factory 340 car is stock, except for the carb. Someone put a Holley on it, but the fast idle screw on the choke hits the stock intake manifold. A riser plate was then installed to help with clearance. Well, that raised everything so now the pie-tin is rubbing on the underside of the hood insulation which in turn rubbed the tin graphics off and put a nice circular indent in the insulation. I am trying to go back to stock, hence all my questions and need to an original carb :) I have contemplated hogging out the original intake manifold near the choke hole in order to clear the fast idle screw, but I'm not sure if anyone has done that with success and/or if that's a big "no no" in the Mopar world.

Have any suggestions?
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I would put the correct Carter on it or a new Edelbrock copy.
 
Indetrucks said:
Thanks Jeff, I have that pricey unit saved. Was hoping to find something a bit more affordable, but I may have to bite the bullet. Hey, by chance do you know what the (s) means at the end of the carb#? It looks like both of the carbs on eBay are 4933S's
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S Manual shift. SA Automatic. What are you looking to spend. I have some manual . With and without the solenoid for AC.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
S Manual shift. SA Automatic. What are you looking to spend. I have some manual . With and without the solenoid for AC.
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Oldmanmopar said:
S Manual shift. SA Automatic. What are you looking to spend. I have some manual . With and without the solenoid for AC.
Click to expand...
Difference betweer Carter carb 2366S and 2366SA check out Rod 2123. The Carter carb myth about what the S and SA really mean. The history says the 4 digit tag was introduced in 1952 and it's a myth that s is manual and sa is automatic
 
Thanks Jeff, yep now my short term memory is failing.
Good link
Carter 4640SA Date Code Question
Indetrucks said:
Got it, so it sounds like all the carbs had it. Can I run the correct carter without it installed? Guess I don't understand how it stops the car from dieseling upon shut down? When shutting down a car, no gas pedal is applied anyway. Isn't the purpose of the solenoid to apply throttle for the AC idle up? Not sure how applying throttle also prevents dieseling?

While I have you, here's my dilemma
My factory 340 car is stock, except for the carb. Someone put a Holley on it, but the fast idle screw on the choke hits the stock intake manifold. A riser plate was then installed to help with clearance. Well, that raised everything so now the pie-tin is rubbing on the underside of the hood insulation which in turn rubbed the tin graphics off and put a nice circular indent in the insulation. I am trying to go back to stock, hence all my questions and need to an original carb :) I have contemplated hogging out the original intake manifold near the choke hole in order to clear the fast idle screw, but I'm not sure if anyone has done that with success and/or if that's a big "no no" in the Mopar world.

Have any suggestions?
Click to expand...

jeff alder said:
It denotes the entire carburetor as the sum of many parts as one assembly...so the S means the carb is an assembly and the sum of several parts. The letter after the S would be the change or revision. I guess we both learned something today Mr. Steve...I thought the same thing you did! CHEERS
Click to expand...
 
Indetrucks said:
I initially thought about going the Edelbrock route, but was worried it would still hit the intake manifold. Sounds like it should clear since it's basically the same body/dimensions as the old Carter?
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@Oldmanmopar is offering up some of his stash of parts. If you want a spot-on match for what your car had give him a shout!
 
OK. 1970, 340 manual transmission cars use 4933s Federal, 4936s California with or without AC. There is always an "S" after the carb #, it just means Assembly. If there is another letter after the "S" it is a revision. Say a rod, jet, or some other change, for example "SA". I have seen "SB" but rarely. There is also a date of manufacture code as well. Chrysler had different carbs for auto and manual transmissions, California and Federal, High Performance or standard. I do not have and extra 4933s carb but I do have an unmolested 4933s if you want pictures for reference.
 
Did ya buy? I think I might have 1 of those that I'm not gonna use/rebuild. I will have to dbl check though. Shipping will be around $40 - $60.
 
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