Well, I just broke my 360 block. Terminal?

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nm9stheham said:
Since this is a very thin walled area to begin with, and we don't hear ever about cracks in this area, then I think it is safe to assume that there is little to no stress in this area normally, and will not be prone to cracks. If 'twer me, I'd:
- torque the cap in place and measure the bore dimension carefully
- braze it up a bit at a time and dress it down
- re-torque and re-measure carefully
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Yep, there isn't going to be any welding going on with the material being cast and that thin.
Brazing if anything other than a sleeve.
 
TrailBeast said:
That's the plug, yes.
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And the part # also. 3462871 crosses to Dorman 555-008, which is a 9/16" plug. All I had to do was look through my Larry Shepard small block book to find it. Or do a slightly more in-depth google search. As RRR said, guessing got me in the mess I have now, my fault 100%. The fractured pieces poppped out with little effort, not a lot of meat missing. At this point I'm thinking I'll knock down the rough spots on the saddle side, have the hole upsized a tad, push in a short sleeve,and have it dressed down to the block's cap mating surface. My friend has a marine diesel shop, I can get the spot magnafluxed for free. The crank bore in this block was never touched, I have a spare set of ARP main bolts, I'll just put them in and have it honed after the sleeve's installed. I know I freaked out yesterday morning, but now it doesn't seem so bad. It's only money.
 
fshd4it said:
And the part # also. 3462871 crosses to Dorman 555-008, which is a 9/16" plug. All I had to do was look through my Larry Shepard small block book to find it. Or do a slightly more in-depth google search. As RRR said, guessing got me in the mess I have now, my fault 100%. The fractured pieces poppped out with little effort, not a lot of meat missing. At this point I'm thinking I'll knock down the rough spots on the saddle side, have the hole upsized a tad, push in a short sleeve,and have it dressed down to the block's cap mating surface. My friend has a marine diesel shop, I can get the spot magnafluxed for free. The crank bore in this block was never touched, I have a spare set of ARP main bolts, I'll just put them in and have it honed after the sleeve's installed. I know I freaked out yesterday morning, but now it doesn't seem so bad. It's only money.
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Sounds like a good plan. :D
 
Cracks in cast iron need to be drilled. always. If the end of that crack isn't drilled, My guess is it will probably get bigger and bigger. it's impossible to tell how long that could take though.

I would be very skeptical about bronzing something like that and expecting to retain the correct machined tolerances when assembled. too much heat and also too much material to remove afterwards.

You MIGHT be able to drill it and fill the hole with jb weld and CAREFULLY file it flat/smooth and get it within a pretty fine tolerance by measurement with a dial indicator.

just my 2c. No guarantees!
 
"dress it down" and there will be a void in a main full pressure oil passage. it will be covered half *** by a main bearing shell and the main cap. oil will leak behind that main bearing lowering volume to the engine and adding work to the rear main seal
 
Marcohotrod said:
"dress it down" and there will be a void in a main full pressure oil passage. it will be covered half *** by a main bearing shell and the main cap. oil will leak behind that main bearing lowering volume to the engine and adding work to the rear main seal
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Oh bullcrap. That thing will be fine. It ain't a Swiss watch. I've seen way worse go way faster than the OP wants.
 
Not to discourage the op in anyway, and I wish the best. But here is how I look at these things when I give my opinion:
IF that block was for sale, and I (or anyone reading this) were told "yeah, it had a crack right here, but shoot, we put a plug in there and she's as good as new....." would you still buy it???? If you would honestly walk away, and look elsewhere, then that is how I give my opinion. Not trying to save a 2nd generation hemi here, not enough value in a 360 block, IMO, to not replace it. They are cheap and common. If something gives, the cost/loss will be much greater.
 
can you guarantee the rear main seal will not leak? you have never seen a blowout in that spot on a small block mopar. I work with guys that could tig weld that, and weld **** like that all day every day. it is blended, preheated, backed up with a piece of copper, and welded with wire that matches the material, done in 30 minutes
 
318willrun said:
Not to discourage the op in anyway, and I wish the best. But here is how I look at these things when I give my opinion:
IF that block was for sale, and I (or anyone reading this) were told "yeah, it had a crack right here, but shoot, we put a plug in there and she's as good as new....." would you still buy it???? If you would honestly walk away, and look elsewhere, then that is how I give my opinion. Not trying to save a 2nd generation hemi here, not enough value in a 360 block, IMO, to not replace it. They are cheap and common. If something gives, the cost/loss will be much greater.
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I'd buy it. No sweat. You guys are stepping over a donut to pick up a dog turd.


Edit: it's a 360 so it ain't worth **** to me. But it will still run. There is no way I would dick off any more than I had to with it.
 
Marcohotrod said:
can you guarantee the rear main seal will not leak? you have never seen a blowout in that spot on a small block mopar. I work with guys that could tig weld that, and weld **** like that all day every day. it is blended, preheated, backed up with a piece of copper, and welded with wire that matches the material, done in 30 minutes
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What a waste of time and money. We used to run narrow bearings on number 5.

Jesus it ain't rocket surgery. Run that beeotch. You are making it way too hard.


BTW, the load is in the freaking cap.
 
L4staero said:
Here is a build thread that shows how to repair that exact damage

Chrysler 360 stroker

Yellow Rose how do you stop the oil pressure lost that will happen past the bearing shell?
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Really? You think the oil is going to force the bearing out of the bore???? There are 16 bigger leaks at the lifters, and that is just for starters. Or do you think it will get out past the cap?

Making something out of nothing.
 
L4staero said:
Here is a build thread that shows how to repair that exact damage

Chrysler 360 stroker

Yellow Rose how do you stop the oil pressure lost that will happen past the bearing shell?
Click to expand...


Just looked at the repair posted above. He did a damn nice job. Just overkill. I've seen many blocks that have prices missing there, especially on the big main bearing 360's (just on mor reason to not like the 360) and just clean it up so it won't keep fracturing.
 
I think that you would get a leak past that.
Every leak counts in a situation where a motor has low oil pressure and remember this is the very first leak in the system. Its before the oil filter which is a restriction so it would be more inclined to leak past the shell and the mating line of the cap rather than the lifters which are further down the line. I would repair it but hey i like to make sure every is good in an engine. Why risk a 10k motor to repair a $200 leak?
 
Outside the box or am I off the wall, Lol.
If this area in not high stress or pressure maybe something such as this?
Green = Block
Red = Plug
Black = Spring Steel Shim (.003", .005"?) rolled to fit in bore
Silver = Old Bearing Shell
Blue = Epoxy Filler? JB Weld?

11shimfill.jpg
 
Daves69 said:
Outside the box or am I off the wall, Lol.
If this area in not high stress or pressure maybe something such as this?
Green = Block
Red = Plug
Black = Spring Steel Shim (.003", .005"?) rolled to fit in bore
Silver = Old Bearing Shell
Blue = Epoxy Filler? JB Weld?

View attachment 1714985411
Click to expand...
This is likely the direction I will go. Thin wall sleeve, epoxy and a clean up, and a hone if I decide to use my ARP main bolts. Gotta stop the sleeve somehow, can't have it blocking the bore out to the filter.
 
318willrun said:
Not trying to save a 2nd generation hemi here, not enough value in a 360 block, IMO, to not replace it. They are cheap and common. If something gives, the cost/loss will be much greater.
Click to expand...
Nothing is gonna give in this area if a decent repair is done. Total force exerted from the oil in that small break area is in the range of 5-10 lbs max in the effected area and the bearing will be well supported by the remaining material. And the above does not count the cost of machine work that may have gone into the block at this point; those $$ would be thrown away. Plus the time to dig out a new one and re-work it fresh.... not every one lives near to a boneyard. I'd fix it for sure..... and have done so with more damage in blocks, as I knew the rest of the block was a known, good item and was in hand, ready to go.
 
nm9stheham said:
Nothing is gonna give in this area if a decent repair is done. Total force exerted from the oil in that small break area is in the range of 5-10 lbs max in the effected area and the bearing will be well supported by the remaining material. And the above does not count the cost of machine work that may have gone into the block at this point; those $$ would be thrown away. Plus the time to dig out a new one and re-work it fresh.... not every one lives near to a boneyard. I'd fix it for sure..... and have done so with more damage in blocks, as I knew the rest of the block was a known, good item and was in hand, ready to go.
Click to expand...
As I stated in a previous post, I wish the Op nothing but the best. It most likely will work just fine if he choses to re-work that area. I never stated that it wouldn't hold up if they choose to re-work that area. He said he already has 1k into it, so going forward with the block probably makes sense to him.
But for me, if it was a crack for an external bolt, like a motor mount or something, I would proceed forward. Internal? My opinion is move on..... Why? Because I would forever be thinking of that repair every time I floored it, or drove it 100 miles away from home. So, to put my mind at ease, I personally would get another block, but hey, it's just what I'd do. Each to their own. No amount of facts, articles, success stories, or anything else would change my mind.
 
Daves69 said:
Outside the box or am I off the wall, Lol.
If this area in not high stress or pressure maybe something such as this?
Green = Block
Red = Plug
Black = Spring Steel Shim (.003", .005"?) rolled to fit in bore
Silver = Old Bearing Shell
Blue = Epoxy Filler? JB Weld?

View attachment 1714985411
Click to expand...


Nope, you are thinking correct. There is very little load on a main bearing IN THE BLOCK. The load is IN THE CAP. Like I said, the leak would be so small as to be insignificant. There is very little stress there.

You can turn a simple fix into a nightmare by using fillers, sleeves and all the like. If you were going to run the snot of of it, maybe, MAYBE, I'd sleeve it.

I never understand how guys make something out of nothing. This is NOT as rare an occurrence as you might think. I've seen it several times. They are still going.

To the OP...don't sweat it. File down the sharp edges and let it go. Or you will end up redoing the main line. Changing from stock to ARP bolts won't require a line hone. Changing to studs will.
 
Good luck to the OP, but this makes me curious about my own block that's half assembled. Does the Magnum 360 have that oil plug? I don't remember seeing one and want to make sure I'm not missing something.
 
318willrun said:
So, to put my mind at ease, I personally would get another block, but hey, it's just what I'd do. Each to their own. No amount of facts, articles, success stories, or anything else would change my mind.
Click to expand...
Well you should not post to these questions then. Why...?? because your giving an opinion based on your "feelings and emotions" rather than based on sound mechanical principals and logical thinking.
Fact is that as long as the bearing covers the hole once the metal is removed, then there won't be a leak. those bearing shells are clamped in nice and tight , their force is exerted against the crank bores and will act as a blank off plate , so will the parting line of the bearing and the main cap. Yellow Rose is spot on.
 
Bakerlite said:
Well you should not post to these questions then. Why...?? because your giving an opinion based on your "feelings and emotions" rather than based on sound mechanical principals and logical thinking.
Fact is that as long as the bearing covers the hole once the metal is removed, then there won't be a leak. those bearing shells are clamped in nice and tight , their force is exerted against the crank bores and will act as a blank off plate , so will the parting line of the bearing and the main cap. Yellow Rose is spot on.
Click to expand...
You just gave an opinion. You have no idea if and how much it will leak and if harmonics will continue to weaken the spot. So maybe you shouldn't post because you have no "facts"..... just your opinions based off of your "feelings" about the situation.
 
318willrun said:
You just gave an opinion. You have no idea if and how much it will leak and if harmonics will continue to weaken the spot. So maybe you shouldn't post because you have no "facts"..... just your opinions based off of your "feelings" about the situation.
Click to expand...

Bullshit, I'm basing mine on almost 30 years of engine building and repairing other peoples failures..how about you? Tell me how the "harmonics" are going to do a thing once the end of the crack is rounded out and the block material get thicker the lower you go???
You don't even seem to be able to grasp the simple concept of a blank off plate or how a bearing is secured in the main tunnel.
This may help you understand better. You really think your going to lift that bearing?

bearing force.png
 
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