Well, I just broke my 360 block. Terminal?

[318willrun]

Bullshit, I'm basing mine on almost 30 years of engine building and repairing other peoples failures..how about you? Tell me how the "harmonics" are going to do a thing once the end of the crack is rounded out and the block material get thicker the lower you go???
You don't even seem to be able to grasp the simple concept of a blank off plate or how a bearing is secured in the main tunnel.
This may help you understand better. You really think your going to lift that bearing?

View attachment 1714985966

Not going to argue with you. Use all the internally cracked blocks you want. I stated my opinion and you aren't changing my mind.
P.S. - Oh, yeah, how about me you ask? Well, I'm over the 30 year mark in this hobby. And never, ever lost a mopar engine, or had lobes go flat, or anything else. Oh, and I don't need your permission to post. Good day to you, now move on

 

[RustyRatRod]

Bullshit, I'm basing mine on almost 30 years of engine building and repairing other peoples failures..how about you? Tell me how the "harmonics" are going to do a thing once the end of the crack is rounded out and the block material get thicker the lower you go???
You don't even seem to be able to grasp the simple concept of a blank off plate or how a bearing is secured in the main tunnel.
This may help you understand better. You really think your going to lift that bearing?

View attachment 1714985966

The thing is, you are not alone. I started wrenching on cars in 1974 when I was nine and have done it ever since. There are many opinions and they are just that.

My opinion is I would repair the area. I am not arguing whether it will leak or not. I would just repair it. I like Dave's JB Weld idea. That looks pretty good. But either way, I would not run it as is. There is just too much risk of the unknown.

 

[Bakerlite]

Remember there is also oil pressure acting between the crank journal and the bearing as an opposing force. Adding a tube will not make the area any stronger and since the oil pressure can't get past the bearing shell, then whats the point....

 

[Bakerlite]

Not going to argue with you. Use all the internally cracked blocks you want. I stated my opinion and you aren't changing my mind.
P.S. - Oh, yeah, how about me you ask? Well, I'm over the 30 year mark in this hobby. And never, ever lost a mopar engine, or had lobes go flat, or anything else. Oh, and I don't need your permission to post. Good day to you, now move on

For you it's a hobby, for me it's a profession..
Yours is an opinion, mine is sound practical advice.
Look up the difference between "opinion" and "advice".
Don't worry.... over the years I've had my fair share of repairing other peoples opinions..

 

[Daves69]

Sorry but I have to ask, will that bearing shell even cover the affected area or just partially?

 

[fshd4it]

Sorry but I have to ask, will that bearing shell even cover the affected area or just partially?

I drew the sharpie across the back edge of the bearing. So, pretty much.

 

[Daves69]

If you drew that line where the shell ends you're right on the edge.
IMO, I think I'd clean it out with acetone or triclor and fill it. Leave it rough except for those sharp corners/edges that may chip off.

 

[fshd4it]

If you drew that line where the shell ends you're right on the edge.
IMO, I think I'd clean it out with acetone or triclor and fill it. Leave it rough except for those sharp corners/edges that may chip off.

That was my thoughts as well, an epoxy would bond better to the rough, cast surface. Still a few little pieces to pick off, I pushed the 2 big chunks out with my thumb.

 

[fshd4it]

Good luck to the OP, but this makes me curious about my own block that's half assembled. Does the Magnum 360 have that oil plug? I don't remember seeing one and want to make sure I'm not missing something.

The Magnum blocks have the same size cup plug in the same spot. To know if it's there or not, stick a piece of stiff wire or a long , skinny screwdriver down the oil psi sender hole. The plug is about 7" down, maybe a little more.

 

[318willrun]

For you it's a hobby, for me it's a profession..
Yours is an opinion, mine is sound practical advice.
Look up the difference between "opinion" and "advice".
Don't worry.... over the years I've had my fair share of repairing other peoples opinions..

A+ professor

Only you wouldn't be repairing my "opinion", cause I wouldn't be using a cracked block

 

[nm9stheham]

At least any epoxy that breaks out will go right into the filter. I would not expect epoxy to last if that thin unless it is backed up with a tube. I personally don't see a tube added being an issue. FWIW

 

[yellow rose]

I drew the sharpie across the back edge of the bearing. So, pretty much.

View attachment 1714986016

Run that mother humper. Stop thinking about it. THERE IS NO LOAD THERE. If oil does leak there, it will be so small as to be impossible to measure.


Damn. I will tell you that you have a 100% probability any filler will pop out and bake in to the gallery.

File off the rough edges, clean it good and move on.

 

[nm9stheham]

Just applying a little engineering to this problem since it is not intuitively obvious what will happen: It's actually easy to figure the pressure through that hole on the back of the bearing shell. If the area is about 1/3" across, then there is about 0.1 square inch of bearing shell area exposed to the oil pressure from the pump, and at 70-80 psi, that would be about 7-8 pounds of pressure on that edge of the bearing.

The main web will exert about that much force on the end of the bearing shell when you just press the bearing shell into the web and the shell will push back with that amount of force. When you crush the bearing in place, then there will be far, far more force that the bearing shell is putting against the web and main cap, all around the bearing. Not to mention the pressure of the oil inside the bearing. So, it is to be expected that this bearing will never move a smidgen with 7 or so pounds max oil pressure force exerted on the back of the bearing shell through the breakout hole.

So it is really just about any leakage.

 

[Marcohotrod]

clean the break a little more and the bearing is not going to cover it completely. and my oil line going to my pressure gauge is only 1/8" and yet the gauge reads 80 psi? with a 1/2" line it would still read 80 psi. I would save the block somehow, and run it before installing it to check oil pressure and rear main seal leakage

 

[nm9stheham]

and my oil line going to my pressure gauge is only 1/8" and yet the gauge reads 80 psi? with a 1/2" line it would still read 80 psi.

Because the sensing area upon which the oil pressure is acting inside the gauge stays the same size regardless of the line size to the gauge.

Hydraulic force on an area is simple: force in psi X area in inches = total force in lbs. I am sure we all know this as brake hydraulics work this way too. Put in larger caliper pistons with the same leg/line force and braking force goes up because the area upon which the pressure is acting goes up. (BTW, I'm an engineer professionally and do this stuff just about every day...... but I'm not sure if THAT helps convince anyone at all LOL.)

Agreed on things being close as far as leakage....