Ironmike
Well-Known Member
What quench are you set up with?........just curious cause Ole Doug loves a tight squish!
Have to look at the paperwork. Hey I'm not sure about this but I noticed that you can rock the piston in the bore with your hand, is that normal?What quench are you set up with?........just curious cause Ole Doug loves a tight squish!
In no engine that Ive been around, especially a fresh build could you rock the pistons by hand. How much are they moving? Id be tempted to pull a piston and measure diameter against bore and compare against piston manufacturers clearance spec. Granted a forged piston will have more clearance to allow for thermal expansion, but I don't think rocking in the bore is good.Have to look at the paperwork. Hey I'm not sure about this but I noticed that you can rock the piston in the bore with your hand, is that normal?
I'm out of town for my job but I am back on Friday. I will post a video. For what it's worth my paperwork says it's 40 over and the piston part number says 40 over.That said, there is always some minor degree of piston rock and this is increased as piston skirt gets shallower and forged pistons are used due to increased clearance. I took your post to mean there is a large amount of movement, I could be wrong.
Well it's noticeable and reasonably easy to rock. I am not sure what the clearance should be on a stroked engine with a forged piston. Maybe I can look up the spec sheet (I've got it at home but I'm on the road) and see what the spec is.That said, there is always some minor degree of piston rock and this is increased as piston skirt gets shallower and forged pistons are used due to increased clearance. I took your post to mean there is a large amount of movement, I could be wrong.
Yes there's rings on them. The machine shop just assembled the short block. Just not sure how much rocking of the piston is acceptable.you got rings on that piston, no?
Thanks for the assurance Mike. I guess I'm just a little bit jumpy. I've got a lot of ei-cash-o in this project LOLYou can always rock the piston with rings on.......as long as it isn't extreme. That's how some guys measure how far out of the bore they are.
Push away from block and measure push in toward the block and measure. Now add them, divide by 2 and you're pretty damn close.
Don't sweat it. I'm sure it's fine.
Tell me about it....Thanks for the assurance Mike. I guess I'm just a little bit jumpy. I've got a lot of ei-cash-o in this project LOL
We'll have to get together and compare notes. I am going to have to check/correct my valve train geometry. I know that you suggested a particular brand.Tell me about it....
Thanks Mike, I plan on calling him.There's only 1 valvetrain geometry guy on the planet. Mike at B3 Racing..
Read his 4 part info right on his website. And did I mention that he's a great guy?
I've never seen high heat clear coat but they do make good epoxy primer and high heat cast iron gray paint. The heads get pretty hot.Well the engine is painted. The heads and intake are staying natural. The question here is weather or not I need to clear coat the heads and intake. Has anyone here ever clear coated their intake and heads? Thanks for your help.View attachment 1715151500
I'm loving the blue, personally I find orange overdone.View attachment 1715151906 Well maybe I might try the duplicolor aluminum.
Here's what it's looking like now.
Nice,Here are k frame mods for oil pan Glenn, sorry for super lame slow response time.View attachment 1715151907 View attachment 1715151910 View attachment 1715151912
Yep. Does it every time, even with VHT's high heat clear. I like the Duplicolor aluminum stuff. Wipe off any stains, touch it up if ya need to. Easy to keep nice.I clear coated a fresh bead-blasted intake, it turned a yellow brown color, never again.