What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?
- Thread starter MobileCustoms
- Start date
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YES, it does. Thank you. I cannot describe how I felt when that happened..
I'm very glad to have an awesome Ins. Agent.
My ego took a pretty good hit. LOL
I bet.....hey man, it happens.....
rambler440
Member
Went to Spokane Raceway Sunday. Confushish say "When you put big motor in little car with no traction, you make back tires spin like hell" Smart guy! No matter what I did spin like hell! 15 sec. flat. But the speed tells a different story. 105mph hmmm, that should be good for mid-high 13's. First time out in car, guess I know where to begin spending money!
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Driving to work.... Ya.... Work..... This sucks.....lol
Quarter patch day here.....
I resurrected a 750HP ..
Both shooter threads were stripped out. So I made threaded inserts out of #2 3/8 NF bolts with the 12-28 shooter threads inside.
Then found center, and drilled for the 3/8NF threads..
Once it was drilled, since my table was locked down, I used the chuck to start the threads..
making sure I went just far enough to install the inserts..
once I threaded the ID of the insert, they were ready to install w/ retaining compound..
I did both sides. Hi flow screws will be used in place of the originals.
The original down-leg boosters were generic non-stepped boosters with .382 ID's
These were replaced with AED single stepped down-legs with .438 ID's They flowed a combined 30cfm better than the originals. Booster signal also improved by .33 H20. mostly due to the increased airflow they gave.
Sorry, no pics of the installation procedure. But I will say I don't crimp them in. too hard to get alignment. No bending..
I epoxy them in. it's easier to keep them centered with my special centering fixture and 'bubble' them in place that way.
Then knock them flush with an end mill and chamfer the openings.
.073 T Slot restrictors in place too.
Metering blocks and bowls were in desperate need of refinishing, so I elected to add some color.
After a glass beeding, I mixed a small amount of deep black with generous amount of hardener and shot the parts with an airbrush. shooter diaphragm housings got it too. A Summit dual feed rounded out the look.
the final touch was the custom secondary link. I found throttle opening angle to be crucial, so I crafted this link that can be adjusted without removing it. (I later beed-blasted that too for a nice finish)
I'm glad I don't have to pay myself to do this stuff...
Both shooter threads were stripped out. So I made threaded inserts out of #2 3/8 NF bolts with the 12-28 shooter threads inside.
Then found center, and drilled for the 3/8NF threads..
Once it was drilled, since my table was locked down, I used the chuck to start the threads..
making sure I went just far enough to install the inserts..
once I threaded the ID of the insert, they were ready to install w/ retaining compound..
I did both sides. Hi flow screws will be used in place of the originals.
The original down-leg boosters were generic non-stepped boosters with .382 ID's
These were replaced with AED single stepped down-legs with .438 ID's They flowed a combined 30cfm better than the originals. Booster signal also improved by .33 H20. mostly due to the increased airflow they gave.
Sorry, no pics of the installation procedure. But I will say I don't crimp them in. too hard to get alignment. No bending..
I epoxy them in. it's easier to keep them centered with my special centering fixture and 'bubble' them in place that way.
Then knock them flush with an end mill and chamfer the openings.
.073 T Slot restrictors in place too.
Metering blocks and bowls were in desperate need of refinishing, so I elected to add some color.
After a glass beeding, I mixed a small amount of deep black with generous amount of hardener and shot the parts with an airbrush. shooter diaphragm housings got it too. A Summit dual feed rounded out the look.
the final touch was the custom secondary link. I found throttle opening angle to be crucial, so I crafted this link that can be adjusted without removing it. (I later beed-blasted that too for a nice finish)
I'm glad I don't have to pay myself to do this stuff...
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Bought a digital inclinometer and double checked my pinion angle before installing my new driveline. Added another 1.5 degree of up angle on the pinion to bring the GV tailshaft and the differential pinion to within 1/2 degree. Reinstalled new longer driveling and filled GV with new fluid. Took tires off to take for rebalance just to be sure and tightened up the exhaust headpipes to the manifolds. Finished adding all the correct lubes everywhere and now I am ready to test drive the car. I hope it's clean because with my knees it is a ***** to put it up and down on the stands and I really don't want to have to do it again.
The Castle nut gave me enough threads to hold the inserts and thread onto the end of the bolt.
I bored into the bolt end just far enough for the 'starter' part of the tap to occupy, so that I can get complete threads in the insert.
The end of the bolt is 'squared' so that the insert is held 'square'. I just thread the insert into the nut and lightly 'bind' it in place. Then I just clamped it in the mill vise and used the mill chuck to start the tap accurately, and we're off and running!
Nice long drive this morning. ...just locally around town, but very nice!
Perfect weather, great tunes....just awesome.
You know you have found the perfect car when you just can't wait to drive it, even when there's nowhere to go!
Never really felt that way about my Stingrays...!
Jeff
Perfect weather, great tunes....just awesome.
You know you have found the perfect car when you just can't wait to drive it, even when there's nowhere to go!
Never really felt that way about my Stingrays...!
Jeff
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Let us know how the test drive went. There may be a gearvendors in my future. Would like to know what gears you’re running, tire size and what kind of rpms you’re turning on the highway.
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Bet you get more looks and thumbs up too...
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Just out burning fuel....
no particular place to go - Bing video
no particular place to go - Bing video
I do.....it's a nice bonus. ....Bet you get more looks and thumbs up too...
Some (most?!) people don't even know what it is. ...but it's got a cool factor that can't be ignored!
Jeff
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Dam... That blows
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
This could get a bit long---------but-----------74 A-body 8 1/4 shur-grip built by RRP with 3.73:1 gearing. Rebuilt stock leaf suspension. I had an A-999 transmission built for it with Trans-go 2 shift kit and lockup converter. (I didn't want to give up converter slip) I built the car to road trip at 70 MPH at a reasonable RPM. With lockup, 275-60-15 tires and the GV engaged I computer simulated my little 273 would be turning 2400 RPM @ 70 MPH, acceptable to me. I had custom 15" rally wheels built with as much backspace as possible, Cad mockup indicated they would work with no modifications. I had to lower the transmission crossmember about 1.25" and the longer GV tailshaft accentuated the degrees of drop from stock. My first setup I set the pinion angle with an $8 angle finder. On the hunt for the unwanted vibration I bought a digital angle finder and rechecked all my original work. By the GV owners manual checks revealed that the driveline was 3/4" short. I had a new DL built the correct length and installed a positive degree pinion shim of 1.5 degrees. I reassembled all and installed new fluid in the GV. The car runs 2400 RPM @ 70 MPH as calculated. The corrections made to my geometry fixed the vibration issue which never was that bad to begin. We all know harmonic vibration never gets better-only worse. It was a brutal week for this old man but now I can take it to the Olympic Peninsula with confidence.
Don't ask about my tuning adventures this afternoon.
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Just chasing a damn vacuum leak!
Cley
Cley
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Today, Out burn up more gasoline....
Hope you found it, they are usualy okay to find on our fine little A-bodies compared to more luxurius cars with an endless amount of vacumlines and actuators under the dashboard for the ventilationsystem
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