What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?

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Yesterday I put the valve covers back on after "gorilla snotting" the new Felpro cork gaskets to the covers. I also put a light smear of non-hardening Hylomar Blue on the head side of the gaskets, too. That stuff is amazing. Also put a stud in the lower rear corner of each head with a Kep nut (captive lockwasher) - it's a PITA to get a bolt & washer back there without dropping it, never to be seen again.

Just took the rear springs off the Dart... much easier than usual, since they've been removed before! Now I have to wait for the new ones to come. Ordered on Fri. from General Spring (not far away in the KC area) but I doubt anyone was actually working that day.
 
Worked on my sons 78 Magnum (360 w/Street Demon 625, some unknown spec lumpy Erson cam, duals, and leather interior!) Fixed the heater valve cable, vacuum line to the selector buttons and the fan switch, and put in a new stereo for him. He now wants a new rear end to replace the 2.45. Looking like were going with a 3.73! That ought to wake it up a little:eek:

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Used the Barracuda for late night Black Friday shopping & today pulled it up to the shop to pull the transmission tailhousung off to install a gear vendors which should be here tomorrow.

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Got the Torque Converter filled with fluid, mounted, torqued and transmission mounted with help from my little buddy.

Installed the mini starter, inspection cover and tranny to motor brackets.

Got started on the Borgeson steering box. Got their Saginaw pump and bracket. Had to prep and paint the bracket otherwise I would have had it mounted.
 
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Got the short block done, cam degreed. Checked semi clearance for the mid plate will cut off the little bit now till I can install the whole thing. Will work more on the console tomorrow.

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Drilled the front spring bolt holes in the relocated boxes from 9/16" to 5/8" in preparation for the new springs. Which now aren't scheduled to be delivered until Thurs :(

That's a fun job BTW. Luckily I have a Milwaukee right-angle half-inch drill motor. With a step bit there's just room to do the outside hole. The inside holes required reaching through the outside hole with the bit, then chucking the drill up to it. It was either that or drop the exhaust system and maybe the driveshaft! :rolleyes:

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I showed my brother how to start it with the new anti theft device for when I pass, which is coming in short time. Long story but he appreciated the efforts to ensure he does not get confused with the new wiring and such.
 
Haven't been able to get to the shop for weeks until this past weekend. Unfortunately spent it working on the stepdaughter's Hyundai... Rack, timing belt, a bunch of maintenance... Next on my own stuff is fixing my new daily driver, and then getting a handle on my '69 and '65 to get ready to sell.
 
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Got the Borg Box all hooked up. Swapped the lines after I saw this pic.

Used Bergman’s adapter. It’s a nice piece. No cutting of the steering column. Pulley belt was a little long. Gotta get one that’s a little smaller. Installed pitman arm, idler arm and center link. Looking forward to putting this motor in early next year. Getting stoked
 
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Today I put the ferrules and door lock knobs on. Took all of 60 seconds :p

I'm also waiting for UPS to deliver my new rear springs so I can pop them in (I've been tracking them like NORAD watches Santa) and they are "Out For Delivery Today". Could be anywhere from now until 8 pm though, this time of year...
 
Got the new springs at 2:30 and put them on. Car does not look like a low-rider any more!
I was a bit concerned because General Spring's listing said they were "2-1/2 inch lift" but they look perfect, not that '70's jacked-up look. 1964-1976 Dodge & Plymouth Leaf Springs | General Spring
For $109.99 each (plus hefty UPS shipping) I was willing to take a chance and get a couple of lowering blocks if needed.
 
It’s like Chrysler knew the gear vendors would be coming out in the future. I didn’t have to ding the pan anywhere.

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There's gear oil on the slip yoke and the rear of the trans. Two separate sources - one is a defective reverse light switch, I can see it seeping between the metal body and the plastic barrel, and the other is the new (but now old) seal, aggravated by a rusty yoke I probably didn't polish enough. The yoke is a 7260 joint so I have a cross-joint to my 3.5" 7290 driveshaft. Ordered a new 7290 yoke, solid U-joint and seal, around $110 for all three. Not too bad for a shakedown run so far.

So today the driveshaft is out, yoke and U-joint pressed off, faulty tailshaft seal and leaky reverse-light switch removed. Now yet another looooong wait for parts in my hand (ordered yesterday) before I can put it back together and start gunning for the engine oil leak!
 
Yesterday i finaly got around to buy myself a litle kit with tools to be able to presurize coolingsystems certainly not very cheap. Used it today,and was finaly able to see where the Durangos coolingsystem was leaking from,im 99.9% sure its the radiator now,very easy to see where cold pressurized coolant is leaking compared to hot colant that just vaporizes itself from the radiator.
Money very well spent if i just end up finding problems a few more times with it,lets hope i never need it again but still very nice toolkit to have.
Tomorows mopar project will be to go visit the only place in town i could find that has that radiator and volounter to get robbed. Looking forward to get that car running again since it makes it possible to get going on my Duster again.
 
Discovered a fault with the ignition switch in my 67. Barely touch it and engine shuts down, stuff goes off. Just pulled the lock cylinder from a used switch that has been shelved for 20 years. It should have some life left. Shopping for best price on a brand new switch too.
 
RedFish said:
Discovered a fault with the ignition switch in my 67. Barely touch it and engine shuts down, stuff goes off. Just pulled the lock cylinder from a used switch that has been shelved for 20 years. It should have some life left. Shopping for best price on a brand new switch too.
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Be aware that new ignitionswitch/lockcylinders sometimes are absolut junk compared to even worn old stuff. atleast that was the case 10 or so years ago.
 
1Fast340 said:
Be aware that new ignitionswitch/lockcylinders sometimes are absolut junk compared to even worn old stuff. atleast that was the case 10 or so years ago.
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yeah Standard brand #US50 is as low as 14 bucks at ebay. It can't be made of much.
 
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