What distributor do you run?

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Lelo Dart said:
Mopar Distributor/Mechanical Advance Timing Limiter | eBay
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A lot cheaper if you get it direct from FBO and skip the ebay fees.:thumbsup:

Lelo Dart said:
That is not for the distributor I was referring to. The one I have runs like hell and has not failed me yet. The OP has a stock replacement distributor which is pretty much the same thing. He could use the parts I linked to and curve his own easily. To each their own but that's what I run.
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I run a stock Chrysler distributor as well with the spring kit and J685 plate.
Also with the MO3000 Napa rotor and an 8 pin HEI module and matching E core coil.
Sure, some people can and would rather do it themselves, but some can’t or don’t want too.
That’s why I build them ready to drop in.
 
Lelo Dart said:
I have run this distributor and I don't like the stops for the mechanical advance. Just bent over copper tabs swinging on little posts. Not good..... Had it hanging up a few times in there.
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Yeah, the copper tabs are JUNK. They don’t repeat and hang up just like you said.

I’m not a fan, nor have I ever been a fan of the GM style advance mechanism. The weights on the end of the shaft like that are pretty unstable.

But every GM junker used it, MSD copied it and it’s the defacto system.
 
mopowers said:
What is the actual measured compression? Using "10.1 pistons" doesn't necessarily mean the actual compression ratio is 10.1. Have you measured it?

I'd figure out what the engine actually wants for initial timing before worrying about total timing or even changing anything, parts-wise.
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^^^^This is the correct strategy^^^^^^
Once you know what is there by measuring the timing at different rpms, starting at slow idle, you can make decisions on logical changes to test.

While people are doing shameless promotions, I'll promote reading up on what timing does.
Post from this thread: total timing reading accurate with no load?
And How To Limit and Adjust Chrysler Vacuum Advance Cans
along with Distributor starting point for a curve for non-factory setups

Then when its time to make changes, if any, you can decide whether to do it yourself like this guy did, or send it to someone like @halifaxhops.
 
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TrailBeast said:
I can set you up with a brand new Chrysler electronic with custom advance curve and adjustable total from zero to 18 degrees with adjustable vacuum advance for under 300 shipped.
(This is what I run and couldn’t be happier with it)
Message me for more details if you are interested.
Most anyone here that’s been here for years can tell you I have lots of experience with them.
As a matter of fact lots of people here are running my distributors.
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I'm interested in this. I was contemplating a Petronix or MSD ignition, but I'd rather stay with a factory type set up. I tried messaging, but your inbox is full.

Thanks,

Doug
 
msddist.jpg
indydist.jpg
 
I run any old alloy body vacuum-advance distributor and just modify the guts to suit.
I also have an alloy-headed 360 but with 11/1 Scr
My distributor is set up with 14 Idle, 34 power at 3400rpm.
I have a 2-stage 318-type curve in it, with the one long-loop spring in it. This provides 28* at 2800, and then slows down.
The V-can is modded for 22* , and I bring it in as fast as possible.
This allows me to burn 87E10 full-time at cylinder pressures up to 185psi.
I have run this curve or one very nearly like it, with the following cams;
Mopar 292/292/108, I measured mine at [email protected]
Hughes 270/276/110, 223/[email protected] advertised
Hughes 276/286/110, 230/[email protected] advertised
I liked the 270 the best.

If you have an auto-trans, with a stall over 2000rpm, to go with those Eddies, You can run pretty much any Idle-timing you want to
 
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