What do you guys think of the speedmaster bare aluminum heads

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I know of 3 critical area real quick
1. The pinch needs addressed on almost every small block Mopar head

2. Short turn needs widened and shaped

3. Valve throat needs opened and sized to the valve size you are using (88-91%) and is most often ignored.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I know of 3 critical area real quick
1. The pinch needs addressed on almost every small block Mopar head

2. Short turn needs widened and shaped

3. Valve throat needs opened and sized to the valve size you are using (88-91%) and is most often ignored.
Click to expand...
These heads operate on the LA shaft rocker oiling system I believe, but don't they have the Magnum style runners?
 
pittsburghracer said:
I know of 3 critical area real quick
1. The pinch needs addressed on almost every small block Mopar head

2. Short turn needs widened and shaped

3. Valve throat needs opened and sized to the valve size you are using (88-91%) and is most often ignored.
Click to expand...

Got before and after pics of #2? I think I understand 1 & 3 but the discussions around the short turn still don't fully click.

I picked up a lightly used set of the standard ProMaxx heads from a guy that is going with the new TF and while the out of box performance of this should be much better than my J-heads, if there is some easy HP to pick up I wouldn't mind rubbing on them a little. I contacted ProMaxx and he quoted $800 to get these CNC'd and the bigger valves that he does on the Shocker 185 version. I'm only into these for $900 all up so that might not be a bad next step if/when I stroke the 340.
 
gzig5 said:
Got before and after pics of #2? I think I understand 1 & 3 but the discussions around the short turn still don't fully click.

I picked up a lightly used set of the standard ProMaxx heads from a guy that is going with the new TF and while the out of box performance of this should be much better than my J-heads, if there is some easy HP to pick up I wouldn't mind rubbing on them a little. I contacted ProMaxx and he quoted $800 to get these CNC'd and the bigger valves that he does on the Shocker 185 version. I'm only into these for $900 all up so that might not be a bad next step if/when I stroke the 340.
Click to expand...


If you read this post about the ProMax heads and look at the flow chart it touches on the subject. It’s been ages since I had that set of heads in my hands but on every Edelbrock Head and copy Head the common wall tapers in funneling the airflow at a high speed towards the valve while trying to make a sharp turn. Image going down a straight road at 100mph and speeding up to 120 going into the turn. Not gonna happen. The high speed air then jumps the valve opening and crashes into the good air going across the top of the port. A good head porter can hear this happening on a flowbench and knows the numbers are going to stall or back up. Control the speed with volume and angles and reap the benefits

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...l/small-block-mopar-promaxx-head-testing.html
 
Yes, I've been through that thread but it has been a while. It's one of the reasons I went with the ProMaxx. I'll go back and see what I can glean.
 
pittsburghracer said:
If you read this post about the ProMax heads and look at the flow chart it touches on the subject. It’s been ages since I had that set of heads in my hands but on every Edelbrock Head and copy Head the common wall tapers in funneling the airflow at a high speed towards the valve while trying to make a sharp turn. Image going down a straight road at 100mph and speeding up to 120 going into the turn. Not gonna happen. The high speed air then jumps the valve opening and crashes into the good air going across the top of the port. A good head porter can hear this happening on a flowbench and knows the numbers are going to stall or back up. Control the speed with volume and angles and reap the benefits

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...l/small-block-mopar-promaxx-head-testing.html
Click to expand...


Managing air speed is the biggest thing in porting, outside of the valve job.

Too many guys love big airspeed that can't be controlled.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
they have a mixed review. Yeah, they are chinese castings as well. Some QA concerns but if you have them checked out by a good machine shop, you'll probably be alright. Don't expect huge flow numbers either. They are, from some of the flow numbers posted, essentially just an aluminum casting of a stock X head, maybe a tad better.
Click to expand...

Hi mine flows better then a stock Edelbrock performer RPM head, they have a good 5 angle valve job.
img_20190711_113839-jpg.jpg


BooW
 
why 5 why not 7 including bottom cut to start to address #3
margins and back cuts are important
radius on the ex valve?
valves- flat or dished
"pro flo" or other small stem valves
Magnum valves?
Lots of LS valves in the correct or longer lengths in addition the the usual SBC
bead or square keepers
10 degree?
plan ahead
 
Wyrmrider said:
why 5 why not 7 including bottom cut to start to address #3
margins and back cuts are important
radius on the ex valve?
valves- flat or dished
"pro flo" or other small stem valves
Magnum valves?
Lots of LS valves in the correct or longer lengths in addition the the usual SBC
bead or square keepers
10 degree?
plan ahead
Click to expand...
Why?
How many cylinder head machinists where he is do 7 angle valve jobs?

How much does that run?

I have been completely ripped off by two machinists that could do the work, and the fair machinists that I finally found that were reasonable only did 3 angle valve jobs. There are THOUSANDS OF REASONS NOT TO.

Not everybody is floating large bank rolls nor competing with the 700X more popular LS or SBC competitive aftermarket.

Why didn’t you run twin turbos?
At the back of the car like calloway corvettes?
Why aren’t you running a 3rd gen Hemi?
A tunnel ram? 4.30 gears? Dana?
Why aren’t you running trick flow heads?
Hint hint
Why stop at W2’s, just get the w9’s and a Ritter block!
Why don’t you run the LSX 454 setup?
Have you considered nitro methane?

That camshaft is not max performance, you are leaving horsepower on the table.<-Your most recent posts.


I do appreciate your insight Wyrmrider, and some of your wisdom, but how about you simply provide a comparison example WITH the estimated loss of performance left on the table and a comparison of cost analysis if you think the guy buying Chinese cylinder heads is walking away from major performance gains?
 
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harrisonm said:
That is my question also.
Click to expand...
Pushrod oiling is typically associated with the magnum style cylinder head.

It can be used on shaft mounted rocker system on the LA (273, 318, 330, 360, ++)

Usually I do not see pushrod oiling outside of the stud mounted magnum based cylinder head.

Edelbrock makes an aluminum magnum head, mopar, China and RHS INDY made a magnum based iron cylinder head.
By China could include ProMaxx, etc
 
ProMaxx gets bare heads from China and finishes them here with American parts. They also have a CNC’d head.
It works well on the wife’s car.
 
With my valve machine it takes no more time to cut a multi angle seat than a 2-3 angle seat
then a little had blend at the bottom and standard valve job is done
so why not
I get all the throats the same, two top cuts (30 and say 15-20 if necessary and room), open up the chamber
one operation

Most lifters come with oiling today so why not buy a little reliability on the rocker cups or balls with open ended pushrods- it's a freeby
 
Research Darrin Morgan if you don’t know or recognize his name and he said never ever excede 15 degrees while making and doing valve angle cuts. So at 60-45-30 you are at the max on every step. That would never be used on a max horsepower build.
 
I know Darrin and he is correct as far as getting air to flow around valve angles
However on a street build where gas is going slower you can do 15 degrees
another thing is that widths have to be not too wide not to narrow (except the seat which I do not narrow on street builds)
 
Wyrmrider said:
With my valve machine it takes no more time to cut a multi angle seat than a 2-3 angle seat
then a little had blend at the bottom and standard valve job is done
so why not
I get all the throats the same, two top cuts (30 and say 15-20 if necessary and room), open up the chamber
one operation

Most lifters come with oiling today so why not buy a little reliability on the rocker cups or balls with open ended pushrods- it's a freeby
Click to expand...
Are there other oiling modifications necessary to if utilizing open ended pushrods on LA engines?

Does The extra oil reduce oil from the pan?-when would you worthy about that after 6400 rpms or when?

If I sent you some heads, how much for disassembly, the multi angle valve job, and then reassembly?

What would the performance gains be?
 
I love hearing about what all these various heads “need”....... without anyone asking what they’re going on or how they’ll be used.

Imo, the only thing that “should” be done for pretty much any application is to make sure there are no issues that could cause an actual “problem” when put into service.
Aside from that...... the rest is all personal preferences......... based on the intended use, application, and desired power level.
 
don't send them to me I'm long retired
find someone with experience with those heads and what they typically need out of the box (like if they habitually come with tight guides)
Start with PRH- what he says is spot on
openended pushrods work fine on LA engines, amount is small If adjustable rockers get ones with cups on the adjusters- but others say cup end pushrods, ball adjusters work just fine
with stock rockers the pushrod oiling helps with pushrod push through the cup problem
since you asked I'd first check the concentrically of the guides and seats, fit the guides, I od hone the valve stems to check for bulge and bow
some valve stems are like files on the guides they are so bad- but usually clean up after a few strokes with the hone
check the throat to valve size and see what needs to be done based on what PRH said above
remember to get your geometry mostly correct B4 ordering pushrods
 
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