What is a good stall to go with a 3:23 Sure Grip?

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RustyRatRod said:
And you need to TELL them too that you want something that flashes into the cam's torque range.....and that means north of 3K. But also let them know you want it tight so it will not act like it's slipping around town, but you want it to flash like a big dog on launch. At least, that's what I would tell them. Sounds like you got a good handle on it.
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Thanks. learning as I go my friend, learning as I go. That's the beauty of these boards...tons of knowledge and previous experience. No matter what you need, someone has likely done it already and can advise.
 
BigB6958 said:
There is a company out in Langley BC called TCS (https://www.tcsproducts.com/) that builds them from scratch to match your engine spec. Been in this particular business for over 60 years apparently, so a lot of expertise there. A little more expensive than usual, but might be worth it to get something that helps me get the most from the engine
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I edited my first response regarding the intake pictured...

I deal with and have dealt with this FOREVER. People will spend 10K+ on the biggest baddest engine they can build, then put the cheapest junk $200 POS converter behind it. Then complain that the car doesn't run right.
In an auto car, the converter is basically the single most important part of the combination. Gears, tires whatever... converter!

TCS is good and in your country. I've bought more than a few things from them over the years.

IIRC the roller cam in that engine is in the 230's at .050 290adv and 500+ lift. It's going to want 3500+ for flash
 
crackedback said:
I edited my first response regarding the intake pictured...

I deal with and have dealt with this FOREVER. People will spend 10K+ on the biggest baddest engine they can build, then put the cheapest junk $200 POS converter behind it. Then complain that the car doesn't run right.
In an auto car, the converter is basically the single most important part of the combination. Gears, tires whatever... converter!

TCS is good and in your country. I've bought more than a few things from them over the years.
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Really appreciate the feedback. Thanks!
 
crackedback said:
I edited my first response regarding the intake pictured...

I deal with and have dealt with this FOREVER. People will spend 10K+ on the biggest baddest engine they can build, then put the cheapest junk $200 POS converter behind it. Then complain that the car doesn't run right.
In an auto car, the converter is basically the single most important part of the combination. Gears, tires whatever... converter!

TCS is good and in your country. I've bought more than a few things from them over the years.

IIRC the roller cam in that engine is in the 230's at .050 290adv and 500+ lift. It's going to want 3500+ for flash
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This ^^^^^ He speaks not with fork-ed tongue. One with cracked back has heapum big knowledge for a paleface.
 
crackedback said:
Get a tight converter built that flashes hard.

Converters today are not the marshmellows of the past.

Is that the engine pictured with current intake? That sure doesn't look like a SV intake. More like an Air Gap (likely better than a SV for the overall build)
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That is the engine I have purchased. I sent a note to the guy I bought it from and he told me that yes, it is an RPM air gap. My bad I read his original info wrong.
 
crackedback said:
IIRC the roller cam in that engine is in the 230's at .050 290adv and 500+ lift. It's going to want 3500+ for flash
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Thanks...I am awaiting the spec from the original owner still (he's just been busy, not ignoring me) but I am guessing that knowing what cam it is from the description i provided (original stock unit from the 390HP crate 360) you guys would be able to suss that out. So, how lumpy is that gonna be?
 
BigB6958 said:
That is the engine I have purchased. I sent a note to the guy I bought it from and he told me that yes, it is an RPM air gap. My bad I read his original info wrong.
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That will make a big difference in the TQ curve. When I switched out an AG for a PRH ported victor 340, the tq peak jumped up 800 rpm. The AG is a better intake for a street cruiser

Article about the 380/360 engine

I like the AG, it will move the TQ down to peak about 3500ish is my guess. Run it out to about 5300-5500 and it will scoot pretty good on a decent tune up.
 
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If it is that camshaft it is kinda lumpy. Apparently it’s supposed to be the same one as in the 402 I have. Therefore it ‘s specs are .501 .513, 230/234, 108 CL

You need more gear, and tighter 3000 ish converter.

When I had 4.30’s in mine I also had a full manual tti trans and looser 3800 ish converter. it was A rocket shop if you could get it to hook.

I since put an automatic valve bodied 727 with the 2800 and 3.23 gears. (only because I had both, but if I was paying I’d buy an 3000-3200 for this motor). I’m soon to out together 3.73’s ina 742 case I have.
The 402 has so much torque, over 400 ft lbs starting low (2000 ish) and it can actually pull it off. But I feel 3.73 with a 28" tall tire would be perfect for me.
 
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crackedback said:
I deal with and have dealt with this FOREVER. People will spend 10K+ on the biggest baddest engine they can build, then put the cheapest junk $200 POS converter behind it. Then complain that the car doesn't run right.
In an auto car, the converter is basically the single most important part of the combination. Gears, tires whatever... converter!
Click to expand...

isn't that the truth...

our dart with a very mild 360,904,3.23 gears and a 25.5" tires has been runnin a dynamic 9.5" converter that will flash to about 3500 rpm but drive around town or on the highway like a stock converter..
 
abodyjoe said:
isn't that the truth...

our dart with a very mild 360,904,3.23 gears and a 25.5" tires has been runnin a dynamic 9.5" converter that will flash to about 3500 rpm but drive around town or on the highway like a stock converter..
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I know one of you in that Jersey area crew had this same deal as I did out here many time. Put a higher flash custom converter in a car and the cruise RPM dropped 200-300 rpm because it was tighter in that operating/tq range.
 
BigB6958 said:
1992 360 Magnum block heads and crank. Externally balanced. Crank is std/std and the block is fluxed for cracks and blasted clean, bored .020 over. Cam (no spec yet but hoping to have it soon but it is the stock camshaft that comes with the 390HP 360 crate engine), all bearings, valves, springs, keepers, locks and seals, rods. rockers, lifters (hydraulic). pistons (10.25:1, .020 oversized) are all brand new. Brand new ceramic coated Hedman headers. Upper is Victor Super intake with an Edelbrock AVS2 750cfm.
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The Edelbrock AVS2 does not come in a 750. They come in 500, 650, and 800.
 
crackedback said:
I know one of you in that Jersey area crew had this same deal as I did out here many time. Put a higher flash custom converter in a car and the cruise RPM dropped 200-300 rpm because it was tighter in that operating/tq range.
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that was DJVCUDA . he had a mp unit in the car originally. put a dynamic 9.5" in it and was much faster out the whole and cruised the highway at like 400rpm lower... its pretty amazing how efficient they are while allowing them to flash higher...
 
Nobody asked for my opinion, but I'm gonna give it anyway.....
What is the intended use for this car/motor? Cause if long trips aren't involved, and a gear change is contemplated, unless you HAVE 3.55s, I'd go from a 3.23 to a 3.73.
I have always maintained that a ratio change should be at least a half ratio, to make it worthwhile, (in either direction.
(This rec is for a street driven car. A race car has a better reason for a tighter change)
My last three gear changes were 4.10s from 3.50, 4.57s from 5.14s, and 3.91s from 4.56
In all three cases, the car was improved. (And all three cars had AT LEAST a 4000 stall)
 
33IMP said:
Nobody asked for my opinion, but I'm gonna give it anyway.....
What is the intended use for this car/motor? Cause if long trips aren't involved, and a gear change is contemplated, unless you HAVE 3.55s, I'd go from a 3.23 to a 3.73.
I have always maintained that a ratio change should be at least a half ratio, to make it worthwhile, (in either direction.
(This rec is for a street driven car. A race car has a better reason for a tighter change)
My last three gear changes were 4.10s from 3.50, 4.57s from 5.14s, and 3.91s from 4.56
In all three cases, the car was improved. (And all three cars had AT LEAST a 4000 stall)
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Excellent feedback, thank you. No races that I am considering. Just driving around and sounding amazing. No massive highway jaunts that I foresee, but you never know.
 
Thanks everyone for the amazing feedback and discussions, as always on here. I will be going to TCS (company I described in an earlier post in this thread) and giving them the specs and driving conditions/desired outcomes and let them build me what is suited to that. I will provide them with the feedback I have received on here and we'll go from there. I should probably start a resto thread so I can show you the progress and ultimately the end result. I am really excited for this build as I had a 69 GTS with a 440 in it when I was about 25, and I have been searching for something good since. The 67 GT vert will do just fine, although I do find that there seems to be a lot of stuff for 68 and 69, but not a lot of 67 specific aftermarket parts. Not that I need much because the car came to me in pretty good shape, but it definitely isn't like restoring a Mustang where there are a sh*t ton of aftermarket options.

Anyways, thanks very much!!
 
33IMP said:
And also just my opinion.... DONT buy a boss hogg converter! Their rep is almost as bad as GER.
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Not to the Chevy boys. They love those things. That oughtta say something right there.
 
In my opinion that's a little too much camshaft for a 323 rear end. I would be looking at something like a 354 rear and 3000 to 3500 stall tried and true combo
 
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