What motor to go with?

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Yea I planned on pistons..the 360 heads What work should I look at for them...I can port them... what valves and stuff or shouldn't i get into that...
 
If they have the 1.88 intake valves then stick with them if they are good. Three angle valve job, bowl blending, gasket match, and get the valve guides reworked if needed. Don't need anything exotic. Put on some valve springs that match the cam.
 
Well I'm in the searching for 360 heads...any casting numbers to look out for?
 
I'd find ones that have the hardened seats. Like 1973 and later castings.

587 I think are like that.

Keep in mind that some of the dyno engines in those magazines were tested on the notoriously happy westech dyno. If you think for a minute that a XE268H cammed, stock 2.02 headed compression 340 with an RPM intake will make 390+ hp, I got a bridge to sell you in Brooklyn. That set up is good for about 1hp/cu. Seen more than one built the same bust out 330-345hp in the 5600 RPM range with a 750DP on it. They backed up those numbers with 1/4 trap speed consistent with those 330-345 results. The articles are good for getting ideas of what might work well together, however, take the dyno number with a grain of salt.
 
lol agreed... I planned on .040 over...pistons, cam, headers, and some worked 360 heads. I have 8 1/4 with 3:73 ratio and rebuilt 904 with trans go shift kit
 
I'd get an estimate on getting the 360 heads gone through and take a hard look at the RHS heads for comparison.

They flow very well and get the combustion chamber sizing you want without all the milling (and the potential for intake mating/head seal hassles).

My 904 is holding up really well to all the abuse I'm throwing at it.

The reason to spend money on a 904 instead of a 727 is that the 727 is MUCH heavier than the 904 (makes you slower), and takes a gob more horsepower to turn (makes you slower). To say nothing of the additional hassles of getting a new driveshaft, etc.

Good luck!

Steve
 
I'd get an estimate on getting the 360 heads gone through and take a hard look at the RHS heads for comparison.

They flow very well and get the combustion chamber sizing you want without all the milling (and the potential for intake mating/head seal hassles).

My 904 is holding up really well to all the abuse I'm throwing at it.

The reason to spend money on a 904 instead of a 727 is that the 727 is MUCH heavier than the 904 (makes you slower), and takes a gob more horsepower to turn (makes you slower). To say nothing of the additional hassles of getting a new driveshaft, etc.

Good luck!

Steve
I agree 100% . Was quoted $900 to reguide, plane, install hardened seats, stainless valves, new springs, w some pocket port work on some X heads. RHS may not be all that much more said and done w a smaller chamber and better flow #s. May not be the case depending on cond. of your heads. IMO i would start there.
 
Can't say to much bad about a 904 if it's done right.

My buddy's Duster had one in it and it took over a year of beating the sh** out of it for the 904 give up. That was a little over stock rebuild. If a guy knows what he is doing, a 904 is a really good transmission. It takes close to 50hp to turn a 727 as to where a 904 only takes about 25. More hp/tq to the wheels FTW!
 
If you don't already have the 360 heads then yeah price out some RHS heads, unported, standard valves. Brian at IMM can set you up on a budget pair. That and some good pistons that 318 would really run strong.
 
I can get a set of heads for minimal $$ like 50 bucks...Porting and decking i can get away with but the valve job and seats is where id have to send somewhere....Prolly see if the guy thats boring the block can throw that into the mix too
 
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