What rear suspension for bracket racing.

What rear suspension would you run?

  • Mopar SS springs

    Votes: 17 27.0%

  • Caltracs

    Votes: 24 38.1%

  • Pinion snubber

    Votes: 6 9.5%

  • Ladder bars

    Votes: 16 25.4%
  • Total voters
    63
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flyfish said:
I would run Caltracs (The full set up with the mono leaves, link bars, and shocks). They work very well on my car, even when it’s super hot and slippery out they will at least slip consistently.
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You would run all that on a 13 second car???I get that there are hardcore serious racers here who will settle for nothing but the latest greatest (and need it) but on a 13 second car?? Absolute overkill and a waste of money at that level. You gotta remind the gallery here what your car runs currently, how about what you used long ago when you only were making horsepower that was good for similar et’s and mph as the OP is projecting.......so everyone here can keep things in proper perspective. :)
 
Well this is what i did Your mileage may differ:p

20 sec, stock pizza cutting tires(all stock with 2.76 gears)
down to 17 sec, gear change to 3.23
16 sec, replaced 318 for a 340 and a set of 3.55 gears.
15 sec, hopped up 340, clamped front segment of stock leaf spring and added cheater slick.
14 sec, add of real slicks 26/10/15...... car got to low and started to rub on slicks(Front segment of spring was bending behind my now, 3 clamped, front segment stock leaf spring)
low 14 sec car with SS Springs,2800 stall converter and 4.56 gears.
------------------------------------------------------
The rest are 1/8 mile so you will have to get out the slide ruler to convert to 1/4
8.30 sec car with Better heads,12.8 compression 408. still 2800 stall that now stall at 3000 and same 4.56 gears
A best of 7.76 sec.........With a real 4200 stall converter,but traction problem and ET keep getting slower.........
New bigger slick (26/10/15 to a 28/10.5/15) traction improved but not consistent and not to the level of above.

My go pro showed me that my SS Spring were shot.
New SS Spring and times improved, but not to my best (7.76) runs in the 7.90.
I'm now having to learn how to get the most out of my SS Spring.

The moral of the story???????
You don't have to know a thing about tuning a chassis with a set of SS Spring, and they bolt up just like your stock spring(on a A Body)
Caltrac's You need to adj it to make it work......................
Latter bar,You need to adj it to make it work...................... or some on who knows need to set it up.
4 link.......Probably the best and most adj ability but you need years messing with it or someone that knows the in and out of it. To help you through/out with it.
You need to know a hole lot about setting up a chassis to make it work right.

WOULD I CHANGE ANYTHING, IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER..........
Living in the same money restraints........Probably not
No i take it back, i would not have relocated my SS Spring inward to gain clearance for the bigger slick. I would have bought a fresh set of the smaller slick and tuned the chassis to make them work. Aka what i'm doing with the bigger slicks.
 
Got a 75 Duster 360 with SS and CE 3 way shocks in the rear. The duster has run a best of 11.19 @ 118.56 in Las Vegas. Last time out it went 1.50 in the 60 ft...

The springs are over 10 yrs old and have been on two other cars.
 
12many said:
You would run all that on a 13 second car???I get that there are hardcore serious racers here who will settle for nothing but the latest greatest (and need it) but on a 13 second car?? Absolute overkill and a waste of money at that level. You gotta remind the gallery here what your car runs currently, how about what you used long ago when you only were making horsepower that was good for similar et’s and mph as the OP is projecting.......so everyone here can keep things in proper perspective. :)
Click to expand...

My point about the Cal-Track or similar bars is it’s a buy once, cry once deal. Once you have that bar you can continue to upgrade everything else and still have a better way to make it hook.

I’ve seen guys piss away way more money that they ever needed to because they went after their program piecemeal.

If you plan on living in the 13’s forever then maybe you use something else. But the cost difference between a good set of bars compared to SS springs and a snubber is close enough that in my mind it makes zero sense to buy something then upgrade it later.

Buy once, cry once.
 
yellow rose said:
My point about the Cal-Track or similar bars is it’s a buy once, cry once deal. Once you have that bar you can continue to upgrade everything else and still have a better way to make it hook.

I’ve seen guys piss away way more money that they ever needed to because they went after their program piecemeal.

If you plan on living in the 13’s forever then maybe you use something else. But the cost difference between a good set of bars compared to SS springs and a snubber is close enough that in my mind it makes zero sense to buy something then upgrade it later.

Buy once, cry once.
Click to expand...

I agree with most if not all of what you mention. Especially DA shocks, one time and done. My thoughts on the various suspension designs and possible necessity of upgrading likely comes from the fact that there are many who likely ditch a perfectly fine (designed but not optimized) setup without ever really tuning on it, learning how to make it work and just jump into the various upgraded suspensions thinking that’s what they needed all along, or just want something trick etc. We all got our reasons and go overkill in some instances. I’m using stuff I don’t really need so.... I’ve spent a lot of time perusing the “post your 13-12-11-10 second” threads and see many posts with seemingly similar engine power builds and car setups running slower times with caltracs etc than those using old school technology leaf springs. Is it ones ability to dial in things better than another or ones inability? My old school way of thinking, doing (in most cases) and opining on is “extracting everything possible” from something before jettisoning it to the scrap heap for newer or modern. Still have to tune either way.
 
70aarcuda said:
Got a 75 Duster 360 with SS and CE 3 way shocks in the rear. The duster has run a best of 11.19 @ 118.56 in Las Vegas. Last time out it went 1.50 in the 60 ft...

The springs are over 10 yrs old and have been on two other cars.
Click to expand...

And some believe it can’t be done…. LMAO!!!

yellow rose said:
My point about the Cal-Track or similar bars is it’s a buy once, cry once deal. Once you have that bar you can continue to upgrade everything else and still have a better way to make it hook.

I’ve seen guys piss away way more money that they ever needed to because they went after their program piecemeal.

If you plan on living in the 13’s forever then maybe you use something else. But the cost difference between a good set of bars compared to SS springs and a snubber is close enough that in my mind it makes zero sense to buy something then upgrade it later.

Buy once, cry once.
Click to expand...

True. Very true.
 
This is why i didn't go with caltrac's when i wore out my first set of SS Springs(was in us for 20+years!)
Calvert wants you to run there system on a stock leaf spring(DO NOT US ON SS SPRINGS which i have)
Is your stock 50+ year old leaf spring up to the task of the caltrac's.......Probably not. Caltrac's not much more money??????
lets do the math!
All prices pulled from Mancini racing sight.

Left and right SS Spring $279. Bolts on with out any other mods....................

Caltrac's $369 + there split mono leaf spring $439.....oh wait that for only one...+ $439!!!!

Grand total: SS Springs $279 + shipping
" ":Caltrac's complete $1,247
That is 4 times the money of a SS Spring.
If you have already replaced you spring with a stock or HD spring.........Then, and only then, is the CalTrac ONLY a little bit more money.
 
My race car runs SS springs and CE slide a links. Viking da shocks. 1.451 sixty foots. I was told that u can’t run SS springs and CE slide a links/ Cal Tracks because they do an opposite job/work the opposite way. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
My race car runs SS springs and CE slide a links. Viking da shocks. 1.451 sixty foots. I was told that u can’t run SS springs and CE slide a links/ Cal Tracks because they do an opposite job/work the opposite way. Kim
Click to expand...
I would agree with that, Because.........I have never ever, heard anyone say.......
"I used my SS spring with caltrac's and it worked fin".......and you know, somebody out there has tried it.:)


EDIT sorry i didn't read that right...
CE slide a links are a CalTrac style spring set up???
Or are you just using the slider in the back instead of shackles?
 
Ok so i google it.
same concept as CalTrac's
So how about a little more info.
how old were your SS Spring when you added the slide a link.
How did it act different?....
What did you do to make them work, or work better then the SS Spring alone.
did you have to set the preload different from side to side with the SS Springs?
Sorry once i actually read the words you were saying:BangHead: You have got my full attention :D
 
Same as Cal Tracks. No idea how old or how used the SS springs are. I got them in a parts deal in 2012. The CE stuff I got in 2016 with maybe 400 miles on them. I put everything on the car in 2016. It was my buddy’s idea then. When I showed up at the track like that a few racers said right away that I can’t use them together. Car runs 10.40s all day long. In the cool it ran the best of 10.37. 1 turn by hand preload on the passenger side then only up against with zero preload. Factory rear shackles. Springs are inboard. Cant remember what the shocks are set at. 28x11.5x15 Hoosiers QTPs. 4.10 Dana 60. 3300 with driver. Kim
 
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Cudafever said:
This is why i didn't go with caltrac's when i wore out my first set of SS Springs(was in us for 20+years!)
Calvert wants you to run there system on a stock leaf spring(DO NOT US ON SS SPRINGS which i have)
Is your stock 50+ year old leaf spring up to the task of the caltrac's.......Probably not. Caltrac's not much more money??????
lets do the math!
All prices pulled from Mancini racing sight.

Left and right SS Spring $279. Bolts on with out any other mods....................

Caltrac's $369 + there split mono leaf spring $439.....oh wait that for only one...+ $439!!!!

Grand total: SS Springs $279 + shipping
" ":Caltrac's complete $1,247
That is 4 times the money of a SS Spring.
If you have already replaced you spring with a stock or HD spring.........Then, and only then, is the CalTrac ONLY a little bit more money.
Click to expand...


That’s because Calvert lied. I wouldn’t run them with SS springs unless I already had them. I run them on my stock springs. And I called Competition Engineering and they said the spring isn’t a big deal.

So for a couple of hundred bucks more I can have an actual traction bar and not a spring trying to do something it was never designed to do.

Stepping over donuts to pick up dog **** never made sense to me.
 
Cudafever said:
This is why i didn't go with caltrac's when i wore out my first set of SS Springs(was in us for 20+years!)
Calvert wants you to run there system on a stock leaf spring(DO NOT US ON SS SPRINGS which i have)
Is your stock 50+ year old leaf spring up to the task of the caltrac's.......Probably not. Caltrac's not much more money??????
lets do the math!
All prices pulled from Mancini racing sight.

Left and right SS Spring $279. Bolts on with out any other mods....................

Caltrac's $369 + there split mono leaf spring $439.....oh wait that for only one...+ $439!!!!

Grand total: SS Springs $279 + shipping
" ":Caltrac's complete $1,247
That is 4 times the money of a SS Spring.
If you have already replaced you spring with a stock or HD spring.........Then, and only then, is the CalTrac ONLY a little bit more money.
Click to expand...

You need to go back to Calverts site and read again. They're $439 a pair.
SPLIT MONO LEAFSPRINGS – Calvert Racing

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that with Calverts split mono springs is that you can change the ride height simply by changing the rear half. If you order the wrong ride height they'll exchange them at no charge. I don't about the shipping though.

I personally don't like the look that SS springs give a car, reminds me of the 70's with N50's and air shocks. Yes, I ran them too.
 
oldkimmer said:
Same as Cal Tracks. No idea how old or how used the SS springs are. I got them in a parts deal in 2012. The CE stuff I got in 2016 with maybe 400 miles on them. I put everything on the car in 2016. It was my buddy’s idea then. When I showed up at the track like that a few racers said right away that I can’t use them together. Car runs 10.40s all day long. In the cool it ran the best of 10.37. 1 turn by hand preload on the passenger side then only up against with zero preload. Factory rear shackles. Springs are inboard. Cant remember what the shocks are set at. 28x11.5x15 Hoosiers QTPs. 4.10 Dana 60. 3300 with driver. Kim
Click to expand...
Thanks for that!
something to put in the back of my head for later.
 
justinp61 said:
You need to go back to Calverts site and read again. They're $439 a pair.
SPLIT MONO LEAFSPRINGS – Calvert Racing

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that with Calverts split mono springs is that you can change the ride height simply by changing the rear half. If you order the wrong ride height they'll exchange them at no charge. I don't about the shipping though.

I personally don't like the look that SS springs give a car, reminds me of the 70's with N50's and air shocks. Yes, I ran them too.
Click to expand...
All i know is that it only shows 1 in the picture, and in the order box it shows 1 for that price. never bought any so you may be right...........
As far as the 70.s look.....I still like the look. Someday i will have to tub the car and then set it down low........But not today:thumbsup:
 
oldkimmer said:
My race car runs SS springs and CE slide a links. Viking da shocks. 1.451 sixty foots. I was told that u can’t run SS springs and CE slide a links/ Cal Tracks because they do an opposite job/work the opposite way. Kim
Click to expand...

I don't see how that could be true. I can see however, the Cal Tracks and Slide a Links maybe working a little "better" with "their" type spring. But even the split monoleaf works with the same principle as the SS spring. The monoleaf just allows the traction device to "work" the suspension more.

Hell, use slant 6 springs if that's what works for you. People have forgotten American ingenuity had made anything work anywhere.
 
yellow rose said:
That’s because Calvert lied. I wouldn’t run them with SS springs unless I already had them. I run them on my stock springs. And I called Competition Engineering and they said the spring isn’t a big deal.

So for a couple of hundred bucks more I can have an actual traction bar and not a spring trying to do something it was never designed to do.

Stepping over donuts to pick up dog **** never made sense to me.
Click to expand...

Got a kick out of that last line !----LOL
I got a complete set of caltracs on my 68 fastback , the springs have flattened out , and not real happy with them , may change to a diff. spring one of these days.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't see how that could be true. I can see however, the Cal Tracks and Slide a Links maybe working a little "better" with "their" type spring. But even the split monoleaf works with the same principle as the SS spring. The monoleaf just allows the traction device to "work" the suspension more.

Hell, use slant 6 springs if that's what works for you. People have forgotten American ingenuity had made anything work anywhere.
Click to expand...

I have been thinking ^^^^just that .
 
12many said:
You would run all that on a 13 second car???I get that there are hardcore serious racers here who will settle for nothing but the latest greatest (and need it) but on a 13 second car?? Absolute overkill and a waste of money at that level. You gotta remind the gallery here what your car runs currently, how about what you used long ago when you only were making horsepower that was good for similar et’s and mph as the OP is projecting.......so everyone here can keep things in proper perspective. :)
Click to expand...
For Many years I just ran a pinion snubber on stock worn out springs with CE shocks and it worked just fine. I even ran at the same track (Bandimere Speedway) with that setup, cutting 1.50 60' times....but, the Caltracs hook so much better as you make more power, and more consistent. Like YR said, buy once, cry once...although its not that bad...I think I only paid about 8-900 for the full setup, but I could be remembering wrong.
 
I still say clamp the springs that are on the car now if they are not sagging [no $ involved], buy some good shocks and sticky tires[slicks/radials] whatever. Then go to the track to see what you have. Then proceed accordingly. I would put frame connectors in b/4 I did any other suspension work. Then a QUALITY d s and yokes. If it starts hooking hard it's going to break stuff. A 12-14 second car doesn't need anything but slicks and shocks and tuning.
 
My friend , 'Cuda Mike , has been running SS springs , good shocks , pinion snubber for 15 years . 9"x28 MT drag radials . 340 stroker , does 10.66 @ 120 mph . will do 10.50's on a very well prepared track . Sweet , simple , fast . does a 18" wheelie out at least 100 ft . No tranny brake , no 2 step .
 
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