I have did this in the past. I got pieces of flat iron 1 inch wide probably 4 inches or so long and 1/8 inch thick. Drilled 3/8 inch holes in them and got the appropriate length bolts. Nuts and washers. Kim
What rear suspension for bracket racing.
- Thread starter dart_68
- Start date
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I made my own claps.I also used aluminum front spring bushings.My springs are moved in so I just welded in rear sliders to the frame.Using the 002 and 003 springs installed around 98.I would build it different today if I was starting over but no regrets.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
used S/S springs, Not stock leaf springs. Did try them clamped, saw no improvement, and keeping them tight required Crawling under the car to check all the time.
Aarrgg..lol
33IMP
Well-Known Member
When i had the stock 62 springs in the car, i made my own clamps. I used 1/4x1" steel, tapped the bottom pieces for 3/8 bolt, clearance in the top. I think i made three sets for each side.
Problem was, with the stock leaves, stock front spring eye location, and CE shocks, i had way too much rear end lift, at the hit. Body rise was so fast and high (more than the front was lifting) that the shocks would top out and unload the tires. I put on ss springs, lowered the front spring eye, and then the CE shocks did okay.
Problem was, with the stock leaves, stock front spring eye location, and CE shocks, i had way too much rear end lift, at the hit. Body rise was so fast and high (more than the front was lifting) that the shocks would top out and unload the tires. I put on ss springs, lowered the front spring eye, and then the CE shocks did okay.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
My Plymouth has SS springs, they have gotten the car to mid tens and 1.30 sixty foot times. But if the track prep isn't perfect it will spin in second gear, 10.5 x 30 slicks and no pinion snubber, truck shocks. I don't know why you would need anything more for a 13.0 car.
I'm learning a boatload of knowledge from this thread. I'm building a 408 with Trick Flow heads, and a big cam. I have an spare complete rear axle assembly to replace my stock 1970 8 3/4 rear. I'm keeping my 741 8 3/4, but modified with an Auburn sure grip. I know my stock 741 83/4 needs improvement, including rear disc brakes.. Help me spend my money for maximum value for putting my 408 to the asphalt. I have a Pat Blaise 727A torque flite, and am shopping for parts that will get it to hook. A kind member here showed me a 15' SBP wheel, which I've ordered. I'm not tubbing the car, as it's a numbers matching 70 Swinger 340 with the build sheet. I want to be able to run her hard, yet still put my original parts on her and get stupid money at Barret-Jackson when my kids sell it after I expire. I'm looking at ss springs and Caltracs. All opinions are welcome. Paul.
Please tell me you drive it on the street.
I'm driving mine on the street. Looking to move back to northern Florida in a couple of years. Come on down and we'll play. I get to meet Rumblefish360 next week. Maybe we should have a long distance thread? I've conversed with Rob for a couple years. I'm looking forward to have lunch with him next week.
.
If you're not going to put frame connectors on it then have tires that spin easy. The dart that is the picture in my avatar with a 340 automatic 4.88 gears tweeted the body so hard that it cracked my windshield and cracked the body on the driver's side down on the left side below the windshield.
I had 9 inch slicks on it at the time with an adjustable snubber and a 4800 or so TA 8in converter.
Thanks for your input. All members on this site have given me outstanding information. I need to incorporate all this knowledge to make a stock appearing 70 Swinger 340, with modern horsepower. I'm walking on a tightrope, but she'll be an *** kicker no matter what minor mistakes I make. I've gained a boat load of knowledge from the more experienced members here. I'm driving on. Block has been sonic checked, line bored for a Molnar crank, studs for a windage tray, H beam rods, and Mahle pistons. I got my TF 190 heads, and waiting for my machine shop to get up to speed. Chassis mods will be installed as long as it "appears" stock. Thanks to all members in put.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I tried that , had to watch them , they moved around , and would rub the tires , could not keep them in place , and didnt help a dam bit !
famous bob
mopar misfit
did
didnt work for me -------
Mine never moved a bit. and i had 2 on the drivers side and one on the passenger side.
famous bob
mopar misfit
justinp61
Well-Known Member
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Absolutely! That’s why it only has 11.2-1 compression.
Torque boxes.
My 72 340 Duster 4 speed 391 gears, had the front Spring halfs straped and was using a adjustable pinion snubber. Adjusted against the floor. This car would leave hard and I never Twisted the body. But it had torque boxes on it from the factory.
You can mount torque boxes on that 70 Dart and nobody would even know they're there unless they crawl underneath it and then they wouldn't know it didn't come with them. Unless it was an automatic car to start with because they didn't have torque boxes on them
My 72 340 Duster 4 speed 391 gears, had the front Spring halfs straped and was using a adjustable pinion snubber. Adjusted against the floor. This car would leave hard and I never Twisted the body. But it had torque boxes on it from the factory.
You can mount torque boxes on that 70 Dart and nobody would even know they're there unless they crawl underneath it and then they wouldn't know it didn't come with them. Unless it was an automatic car to start with because they didn't have torque boxes on them
famous bob
mopar misfit
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
DIDNT HELP MINE EITHER!
It is a 727, but I'm thinking about it, especially if it can be restored.To be honest, I'm considering chucking that idea and making it mine. Another option would be to put all the stock, numbers matching stuff on it and sell it. Then, I'd buy one less valuable I could tum, ect... It's a hard choice, I've had the car for 15 years. Countless hours in the garage while the relentless Seattle rain bounced off the roof.
He's a good dude.
You have to unclamp the rear segment as well for it to work. Only clampin the front is like gettin your girl all hot and not makin her have a happy endin.
famous bob
mopar misfit
did that , guys used to tell us the rear leafs looked like an eagles wings spread , inches between each leaf on take off .
Then it was workin.
jbharris
Well-Known Member
Removing the pinion snubber helped me a lot. My car would hit so hard it bounced off the snubber and unload the tire. I was all over the place trying to figure it out. My car is super consistent now. I found SS spring work well they work todays radial drag tires.
amen !!!
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