IT was cracked before it was ever installed. End of story.
Ridiculous... The big three shared tons of ideas...See post 20 & 21. People have been having problems with these bearings for a long time. Then there are people who say they have never had a problem.
Im one that never has had a problem with them because I run the proper stock tapered bearings like mopar designed them with.
Werent the green bearings a ford thing? Do you really want (F word) parts on your mopar?
Ridiculous... The big three shared tons of ideas...
My green bearings have been working flawless for years...
Something was wrong with the installation...
I installed these dutchman axles a few years ago, and they have very few miles on them. I pulled them out today to replace the pumpkin, and this is what I find. What in the world would cause this? This is just the one axle.
View attachment 1715732007 View attachment 1715732008
Full size pictures
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155032.jpg
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155059.jpg
They look kinda dry, what grease were you using?I installed these dutchman axles a few years ago, and they have very few miles on them. I pulled them out today to replace the pumpkin, and this is what I find. What in the world would cause this? This is just the one axle.
View attachment 1715732007 View attachment 1715732008
Full size pictures
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155032.jpg
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155059.jpg
Insufficient end-play .
Shims are avail.
Some after-market axles come " trim to fit " .
As per post #18 .
I do completely agree about using the tapered roller bearings. I've always preferred them myself. I don't however understand why people think they have to be insulting and hateful about which bearings to use. Just pick your parts, run them and be done with it.
There sure is a lot of hoop-jumpin' and 'obligatory but undocumented details' to install bearings that were never recommended, to solve a problem that never existed.
Spacer this, trim that, shim the other, remove the button, install the shim, yak yak yak. This version, that version, install this way or some other.
And that's better than spinning an adjuster once every fifty thousand miles, how? Jesus, what a cluster f**k.
Because the green bearing, if installed correctly in a straight housing is just as good as a tapered bearing without needing to bother with adjustments. They are simple and they work.
Because the green bearing, if installed correctly in a straight housing is just as good as a tapered bearing without needing to bother with adjustments. They are simple and they work.
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.
First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).
In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.
Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.
Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.
I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.
Again, copy and pasted from Dr Diff website. The OP is using inferior 1st Gen Green Bearings.
It’s a beneficial read and upgrade to use the 2nd Gen Snap Ring RP-400 style bearing. Period
OP update?They look kinda dry, what grease were you using?
I have had 3 different 8 3/4 rear ends with green bearings, many hole shots thousands of street miles - no issues.
When you installed them did they slip right in by hand or did you have to force them in?