What's the best way to fix aluminum intake threaded hole for temp gauge sending unit?

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This is gonna depend on what the threads are NOW. Because most manifolds don't have much "meat" to do much enlarging or tapping. It think there is a very good chance you will be looking for a welder.
 
Can u reach the bottom of hole from stat housing hole? If so I would be tempted to use JB Weld, whatever type works for aluminum.
Wrap the sensor in Teflon tape real snug, slather the JB Weld on the sensor and in the hole. Thread sensor in the hole gently/carefully, let fully cure, remove sensor and tape from hole. If you think it will drip and can reach thru stat hole, put something to catch/clean up.
Good luck.
 
We are all waiting on the pics of what is going on with your intake?
 
I made a purchase of an Edelbrock LD340 intake before I went to Carlisle and saw I did pretty good on the price I paid compared to what they were asking at Carlisle. The one I bought was advertised as unmodified and it pretty much isn't. What is modified is the threaded hole for the temp sending unit. There is pretty much no threads let to grip and any force tightening the sender just spins. What is the best option to fix this once and once only . The intake is on the car and I would rather not take it off. I've thought about Heli coiling it or maybe putting a reducer fitting in 1/2 male to 3/8 female after drilling out to 1/2 inch and tapping the hole. Half assing it with thread tape and sealer did not seal it up.
Find the next size larger NPT thread. Use a vaccum or grease on the drill to catch the chips. When tapping, pack grease in the flutes to catch the chips. Keeps then out of the cooling system. Install the bushing with a PST paste sealer. Then the same for the sender. The paste fills the gaps where coolant could leak, while allowing electrical conductivity.
 
We are all waiting on the pics of what is going on with your intake?
Sorry, I haven't been around. I was away for the weekend at a college hockey showcase with my son. I'll get a chance later today to take a few pics.
 
Do what Uncle Tony would do, glue it in with JB weld...
I have a buddy with some nice Mopars and a couple other cars. He has lost touch with doing anything himself and pays people for basic repairs and he suggested trying JB Weld too.........I have done my share of half assing stuff before but this won't be one of those times.
 
I have a buddy with some nice Mopars and a couple other cars. He has lost touch with doing anything himself and pays people for basic repairs and he suggested trying JB Weld too.........I have done my share of half assing stuff before but this won't be one of those times.
It was a joke man...The Uncle Tony reference...? but yeah drill and re tap sounds right to me however, doing it yourself may be a bit eh...costly? usually pipe thread taps aren't in the sets and they aren't cheap as singles etc. a good machine shop should be able to hook it up Im thinking...
 
Intakes can be had cheap if you look. Just get another one.
 
Hey I thought it was funny LOL! actually JB weld...? Tony wouldn't do that he'd take a coat hanger and a battery and a pair of jumper cables and weld er up... :poke: :lol: :thumbsup:
 
I am a gluton for punishment. I couldve been done with this if I just crumbled and brought it to a machine shop. Then again i was turned away a few years ago from the place thats local to me cause I brought in my lower control arms to have the bushings removed and replaced with the new ones I had the the guy turned me away instead of taking my work. I would rather not pay the prick anything if possible. I did buy a kit for 1/8-27 NPT thread repair and it was not cheap at all. Comes with drill, tap, countersink and sleeve installation tool. A little over $100
 
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LD 340 intakes are not cheap if you can find one. Saw 5 at Carlisle and all sellers had 5 as the first number in the price.
 
GL






I am a gluton for punishment. I couldve been done with this if I just crumbled and brought it to a machine shop. Then again i was turned away a few years ago from the place thats local to me cause I brought in my lower control arms to have the bushings removed and replaced with the new ones I had the the guy turned me away instead of taking my work. I would rather not pay the prick anything if possible. I did buy a kit for 1/8-27 NPT thread repair and it was not cheap at all. Comes with drill, tap, countersink and sleeve installation tool. A little over $100
 
LD 340 intakes are not cheap if you can find one. Saw 5 at Carlisle and all sellers had 5 as the first number in the price.
I bet they either lowered the price or they took them back home with them.
 
LD 340 intakes are not cheap if you can find one. Saw 5 at Carlisle and all sellers had 5 as the first number in the price.
I know that. I'm tryin to get you to see loafin around on an internet forum ain't gettin your intake fixed. I'd have that beeotch fixed and onto the next project days ago. Chop chop Hopsing.
 
Wax on wax off grasshopper..






I know that. I'm tryin to get you to see loafin around on an internet forum ain't gettin your intake fixed. I'd have that beeotch fixed and onto the next project days ago. Chop chop Hopsing.
 
OR…. Possible to get a spacer under your thermostat and run it there…. Just an idea

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We are all waiting on the pics of what is going on with your intake?
Here are your pics. My thread repair kit should be here tomorrow and if it does show up I will be done tomorrow hopefully.

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I like the idea of the Heli-coil, but you would have to Loctite the HeliCoil insert, and I'll bet a kit is over $65.-. Pipe taps are cheap, and everyone should own a set up to 1/2" anyway.
Is 1/8" NPT what that is? I was thinking it was 3/8" NPT for some reason. Cheapest I found the 1/8" NPT heli coil kit is like 80 bucks......well worth the money to fix an LD340 correctly. And of course, I use Locktite on every heli coil I install. Goes without sayin. I don't understand the quandry here. This would have been in my rear view mirror days ago.
 
LD 340 intakes are not cheap if you can find one. Saw 5 at Carlisle and all sellers had 5 as the first number in the price.
That seems like more of a reason to sell this stripped manifold, order a new one, and spend the change, but I don't get attached to piece-parts.
 
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