Whats the best way to get this fitting off

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Post #6 is the closest way that I would do it. Have done this several times. With a die grinder type cut off, cut the nipple off about 1/8" from the manifold. Then with another die grinder and metal cutting bit, go inside the nipple and start cutting a groove. Be careful not to go into the threads, when you get close, take a small chisel and start caving in the nipple by the groove. If you don't have the equipment, you can try the other ways. I wouldn't want to wait that long, I could have that out of there in 5 minutes.
 
I'd do as some have suggested, grind a few grooves inside until they just start touching threads, but I'd use a die grinder with a rotary file. This will relieve some of the compression tension and will aid in removing it. Most of the time if they have pipe dope or teflon tape on them they aren't too bad. I'd be careful with how much heat I put on aluminum.
 
Yes, watch out on heating aluminum, with flame. It doesn't warn you, it goes from a formed casting, to a junk in the blink of an eye.
 
I clean out the inside of the fitting of as much corrosion as possible with a Dremel wire brush, soak in penetrating oil, then use an inside and outside pipe wrench together if it's a stubborn one. Cut and crush as a last resort. I don't like to put a torch on aluminum, but, I necessary keep it to just a propane one. Use some good pipe dope like Never-Seize on the new fitting so you never have to resort to this again.
 
This is a pipe extractor type that I have never had fail, it grabs long defore it expands. I have been using this type for over 30 yrs.

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rklein383 said:
I had to take an open hack saw blade and carefully cut a slit in the pipe. When it gets really close to getting all the way through, you can squish it with a pair of pliers and it will come out easily. Oh yeah, penetrating oil doesn't hurt.

You can speed up the process by using a cut off wheel or saws all for the portion of fitting that sticks out of the manifold.
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A tip from Detroit Diesel to get those pipe plugs out of iron, heat the plug and melt canning wax around the thread while hot. Let it cool, The heating expands the cast iron slightly and shrinks the plug. As it cools, some wax is drawn in to lubricate the threads. Should work for this.
 
cudamark said:
I clean out the inside of the fitting of as much corrosion as possible with a Dremel wire brush, soak in penetrating oil, then use an inside and outside pipe wrench together if it's a stubborn one. Cut and crush as a last resort. I don't like to put a torch on aluminum, but, I necessary keep it to just a propane one. Use some good pipe dope like Never-Seize on the new fitting so you never have to resort to this again.
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Great idea using a internal dowl or socket for extracting, but I would use penetrating oil while taping fitting lightly in order to loosen threads a little and allowing the oil to do its work before trying to remove. This would be my first approach before attempting other methods listed above. Would like to add, if using heat, I would heat the fitting and not the aluminum intake, because the steel fitting would expand slower than the intake expansion. The heat would transfer to the intake without damage.
 
You're braver than I am, hitting it with an impact. It came out though, so that's all that matters!
 
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Agreed #38. Not the way I would have done it! It worked for him this time.
Move on.
 
hack saw blade,,,work the inside as far as you can before threads, then tap the right side in so it breaks in, then use vice grip and turn the bent down tab to the left and itll either unscrew or peel the whats left of the pipe away from the threads. Ive had little success with internal pipe wrenches, good concept but the ones I bought at Home Depot were crap. Im sure an expensive one with hardened jaws would work better. The internal support is a great way to grab those thin wall tubes, worked for a diverter valve replacement I had to do through shower tile.
 
I used a old rusty impact socket that I had to grind slightly to fit hammer tap in tight inside and welded it on. Then while still hot PB Bustered the crap out of it for two days. Clamped the manifold in the 20 ton shop press and used an 1/2 impact on low and hammered on it for a bit both loosen and tightening. Did not hurry.
 
Dave_J said:
I used a old rusty impact socket that I had to grind slightly to fit hammer tap in tight inside and welded it on. Then while still hot PB Bustered the crap out of it for two days. Clamped the manifold in the 20 ton shop press and used an 1/2 impact on low and hammered on it for a bit both loosen and tightening. Did not hurry.
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did same thing, let it sit several days waiting for stuff to work at it.
 
4spdragtop said:
Cut it pie shaped and bend the "slices" in. Soak it with a mix of acetone/trans fluid.
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rklein383 said:
I had to take an open hack saw blade and carefully cut a slit in the pipe. When it gets really close to getting all the way through, you can squish it with a pair of pliers and it will come out easily. Oh yeah, penetrating oil doesn't hurt.

You can speed up the process by using a cut off wheel or saws all for the portion of fitting that sticks out of the manifold.
Click to expand...
You guys beat me to it. I cut mine into two pieces with a loose hack saw blade, being very careful not to cut too deep. Then I tapped the top towards the cents like Steve said, added some penetrant, let soak for a while, more tapping, more penetrant... It took about an hour. The treads were fine.
 
Heck yeah man! Glad you got it out. Nice work!
 
I drive a long taper punch into the exposed portion of the nipple, then twist them out with pipe wrench or vise grips. Usually no heat is required.
 
Anybody know what size pipe plug I need. Thought it was 1 inch..boy was I wrong..lol…Victor intake
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Measured my motor it's 3/4 in pipe. I would chase threads with pipe tap, but just enough to clean threads, you go to far & you might have sealing issues.
 
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