Wheelie question

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yellow rose said:
YR, buy moving up a hole, would'nt that be triangulating the bars more, therefore giving more leverage for lift??
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Yes it will give the bar more leverage. It also speeds up how fast and how hard the chassis hits the tire. An IC of say 34 inches out and 8 inches up (I'm guessing on my numbers because I haven't run a ladder bar since 1984) may be the middle hole. So, if you move to the next hole up you are still about 34 inches out but you will be about 2 inches higher. With the bar running downhill to the back you are giving it more leverage than it had before, and it makes the bars hit the tire harder. If it does, you have to possibly add 2 maybe 3 clicks of rebound damping in the rear shocks. If you hit the tire hard enough, it will try to bounce back up into the wheel well. That's why a DA shock is so important. You can make the shock extend very quickly and hit the tire. A and then you can stiffen the rebound so the tire doesn't try to bounce.

DA shocks are the single most important tuning tool you have. If you have single adjustable shocks, you are stuck with the engineers idea of what compression dampening works with what rebound dampening. DA shocks give you the extra tune-ability to greatly change shock behavior in one direction without doing a thing to the other direction.[/QUOTE]
Thank you. I never had anyone explain to me like that. I believe it.
 
We don't mind the wheelie, it's BADASS . We're just try to keep from breaking **** when it comes down. I think better shocks in front will help that. We will change the gear over the winter and I will push for new shocks. If that doesn't do the trick, we will play with the IC a bit.
 
I would go with what they said. Move the bar up in steps. First the middle hole then the top hole. Basically your trying to lift the front end with a shorter lever. So given the same weight it should not have as much power to lift the front end. However it will put a "faster", "not harder" hit on the tires because by shortening the lever you speed up it's reaction time. Better shocks may be in order like what has been said. Try to make it work with what you got. If it needs more shock then get them, but I would try what you have before spending on more parts. Also since the suspension is reacting quicker you you may improve the car's actual reaction time and you may need to adjust your starting line technique. I love the wheels up though:thumbsup:.
 
Dana said:
If it is hooking good, and you like the wheelie, don't mess with the ladder bars. If you don't like the wheelie, and think you are losing e.t because of the excessive driving after the wheelie, then soften up the hit with your ladder bars. Or you get the extra long upper control arm bumpers and limit almost all of the free travel in the front. But, if ALL you want to do is stop the bounce, I highly recommend good front shocks. Buy a set of Santhuff's and never buy another set. I promise the for will stick the landing like a gold medal gymnast! The problem with stiffening up the cheap shocks too much is, you still get bounce out of the torsion bars.
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Expensive yes but that is exactly what our 1 and only legal A/SAA stocker running 9.89's@131 with 1.27 60's did to control the 3ft+ wheelies, it comes down with the grace of a plane landing....
 
I agree, we just need to control the landing.
It hooks and leaves better than we could ask for. We will do the gear change and probably go with the Viking DA shocks and go from there. Thank you for your input.
 
RJK3 said:
I agree, we just need to control the landing.
It hooks and leaves better than we could ask for. We will do the gear change and probably go with the Viking DA shocks and go from there. Thank you for your input.
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I don`t agree w/ the same E T w/ 4 ft wheels up, versus 6-8-10-12" wheels up. The higher u go the more wasted motion. Prostockers figured that out yrs. ago. I got my best time carrying the front wheels about 8", even tho it carried them all the way thru low gear "n the best runs." A
guy I knew had a low 9 sec. duster that went faster by limiting his big wheelies down to about 4-6 " . He even had to back the carb off to kill h.p. and stop splitting the 440 blocks, I think he even split an aftermarket block. He was very successful and WON a lot !
 
I'm with Famous BOB. Don't get me wrong the wheels up is fun! Go forward, not up. Here'a a race for thought. How many races have you lost that where less in distance than the height of your wheel stand?
 
Still learning the car. Only one round of eliminations, lost to a .008 package.
Foot braking, I was .025 on the tree and broke out by .003...:BangHead:
 
Agree or not our fastest pass with lisas car it went past the 60 foot on the rear bumper. we run Calvert 90/10s up front and Qa1 DA in the rear
Lisa 11-29-15_zps0yedo5nu.jpg
 
How do not break crap after a wheelie like that? Are there mods for the front suspension?
 
First thing i did was install a taller front tire for ground clearance and got a different oil pan
( 8 qt Milodon) as she killed the moroso pan on her first big wheelie. I boxed in the lower control arms and welded plates on the k frame around the lower control arm pins. Inner and outer tie rods are 11/16th with PST steel adjusting sleeves. RMS upper arms and strut rods. I run a 2 inch tall bump stop on the lower arm to prevent bottom out on the track. She has pulled hundreds of wheelies and has never broke anything. We have a front /rear weight bias set at 51.7 front and 48.3 rear.
 
The W2 408 I am building for my Swinger should be well into the 500s for ponies and it kinda freaks me out to think of the front end coming up like that.
But I probably wont get to a 51/49 dist or hook well enough to worry about it... Lol
 
mbaird said:
The W2 408 I am building for my Swinger should be well into the 500s for ponies and it kinda freaks me out to think of the front end coming up like that.
But I probably wont get to a 51/49 dist or hook well enough to worry about it... Lol
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I enjoyed the pass seat ride ! Stiil think there is a combination that would go quicker w/ less wheely, but if u can win and are not tearing anything up, as it is, it`s kick *** !
 
It may look good but i would think once you get more than a foot of air under the front wheels it is just wasted motion, what is your car's et and 60ft times ?
 
MikeD said:
It may look good but i would think once you get more than a foot of air under the front wheels it is just wasted motion, what is your car's et and 60ft times ?
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Last time out 3 weeks ago it ran 6.25 at 107 1/8 th. 6.25 is about 9.80 ets It only has a roll bar so when we bracket race i tune it back to run 10.0s at 131 in the heat. It 60s 1.30 to 1.33 or 1.41 to 1.44 on the back tires. The 330 time are deadly consistant at 3.97 to 3.98
 
RJK3 said:
10.1 -1/4
1.34-1.36- 60's
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try adding 30 lbs to the trunk, it will help set the front end down easier. I have a 72 pontiac that pulls huge wheelies and i bought a set of front Afco bnc shocks and now the car lands great without a second bounce.
 
wheelsup73 said:
try adding 30 lbs to the trunk, it will help set the front end down easier. I have a 72 pontiac that pulls huge wheelies and i bought a set of front Afco bnc shocks and now the car lands great without a second bounce.
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Adding weight to the trunk would make it come up harder and faster.
 
Coming from someone who has never pulled a wheelie or had to adjust a car that pulls big wheelies you have it all figured out dont ya! Remind us what you drive and the last time you went down the track? We made over 200 passes last year alone!
 
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