Where is the weak point

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65TTCuda

65TTCuda

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I have a 65 Barracuda in the build stage. SS springs, 8.75 with a spool and 35 sline axles. I have a 65 B body A833 4 spd. with a trunnion to U joint adapter, scatter shield, hyd. clutch fork ram, Mcleod flywheel and clutch assy., behind a potent 360. Where is the weak point in your opinion.
 
Is the clutch disc and pressure plate sfi certified? What size U joints and are you running a loop?
 
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I have not perchased the u joints yet or the drive shaft. The clutch assy. is sfi certified, and a jriveshaft loop is in the frame. Forgot to metion the 3.73 gears with 275/60-15's and 28x10.5 tires. What size U joint and jriveshaft would you recomend?
 
Im personally going with 1350’s on a street car with a big block and a 4 speed. If I were you I’d do at least 7290’s.

If you go with some big U Joints and a strong driveshaft, your next weak point will be the chassis IMO. Your combo looks solid. If you don’t have subframe connectors, that would be my next step.
 
We need to know how you are going to drive this car?
Any Drag racing?
What is a potent 360? 300 or 500 horsepower?
What are the tires? drag tires or highway radials?
Spin and grab on the rear tires is hard on parts.


That 8.75 with a 4 speed is a potential weak link.
 
Depends on what kind of trunnion adapter you have. If it's a substantial one, then my guess would be u joints as the weak points.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Im personally going with 1350’s on a street car with a big block and a 4 speed. If I were you I’d do at least 7290’s.

If you go with some big U Joints and a strong driveshaft, your next weak point will be the chassis IMO. Your combo looks solid. If you don’t have subframe connectors, that would be my next step.
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I have thought about sub frame connectors, and probably will have them welded in. I also am going with a set of traction bars, 60's style.
 
413 said:
We need to know how you are going to drive this car?
Any Drag racing?
What is a potent 360? 300 or 500 horsepower?
What are the tires? drag tires or highway radials?
Spin and grab on the rear tires is hard on parts.


That 8.75 with a 4 speed is a potential weak link.
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It will mostly be a street car but will make a few fun passes now and then. I don't have the budget to be competitive and always breaking something. I'm building an engine to produce right around 500hp give or take a little. What I'm building is a 60's style street gasser. My street tires are 275/60-15, and my race day tires are 28x10.5-15
 
RustyRatRod said:
Depends on what kind of trunnion adapter you have. If it's a substantial one, then my guess would be u joints as the weak points.
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Have not purchased on yet, but I have been looking and there are only a couple that will fit.
 
No experience with the trunnion or other manual parts, but the ring & pinion has been the weak point in my years of automatic 8 3/4 footbrake racing. Stripped the teeth a few times. I had no issues with solid Spicer u-joints and steel billet rear end yokes even though they were for 7260 joints! OEM style yokes can spread over time. FWIW, I believe the hammering of constant hard 2-step launches is just as hard on a rear as a stick. Vehicle weight and hard hooking are major factors too.
 
Assuming proper traction, the clutch's engagement rate is what determines how much peak impact energy your drivetrain parts will see. A clutch that takes 0.15 sec to pull the engine down after a WOT shift will impact the drivetrain roughly twice as hard as a clutch that pulls the engine down in 0.30 sec. The softer engagement rate not only reduces impact sent to the drivetrain, it will also be quicker at the dragstrip.

I invented the ClutchTamer so I could easily adjust the rate that the clutch pulls the engine down.

Grant
 
weedburner said:
Assuming proper traction, the clutch's engagement rate is what determines how much peak impact energy your drivetrain parts will see. A clutch that takes 0.15 sec to pull the engine down after a WOT shift will impact the drivetrain roughly twice as hard as a clutch that pulls the engine down in 0.30 sec. The softer engagement rate not only reduces impact sent to the drivetrain, it will also be quicker at the dragstrip.

I invented the ClutchTamer so I could easily adjust the rate that the clutch pulls the engine down.

Grant
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Holy smokes!! I have read some of @j par threads about the ol clutch tamer and have been thinkin about that puppy night and day!!( slight exaggeration, but close). Cool invention! I watch those SE gasser boys doing wheelstands and wonder how their 4 speeds hold up.



I wonder how many are runnin your invention. Pleasure to meet you!!
 
65TTCuda said:
I have a 65 Barracuda in the build stage. SS springs, 8.75 with a spool and 35 sline axles. I have a 65 B body A833 4 spd. with a trunnion to U joint adapter, scatter shield, hyd. clutch fork ram, Mcleod flywheel and clutch assy., behind a potent 360. Where is the weak point in your opinion.
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Spring perches, they will fold up I see a lot of power, weld in gussets.
Sheet metal at the front spring hanger area can be ripped up and out under (serious) power.
U joints, driveshaft. I wouldn’t run an adapter for the trunnion.
I’d run a standard yoke of a 7290 at a min.
 
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clementine said:
Holy smokes!! I have read some of @j par threads about the ol clutch tamer and have been thinkin about that puppy night and day!!( slight exaggeration, but close). Cool invention! I watch those SE gasser boys doing wheelstands and wonder how their 4 speeds hold up.



I wonder how many are runnin your invention. Pleasure to meet you!!
Click to expand...


I've got quite a few SEGA customers :)

Grant
 
500 HP? :thumbsup: I'd ditch the trunnion adapter and just find a regular slip yoke 4 speed.....preferably an 18 spline. The 23spline 833's are fine for a normal street car with moderate HP, but they do start balking at the HP levels you plan for. Reinforce the attachment points of your front spring hangers and as Rob suggested above, gusset the spring perches so they don't wad up. There is a huge difference between Mopar spring perches and the Mickey Mouse perches you can buy at Speedway Motors. Good luck, and have fun with your build!

:steering:
 
JDMopar said:
500 HP? :thumbsup: I'd ditch the trunnion adapter and just find a regular slip yoke 4 speed.....preferably an 18 spline. The 23spline 833's are fine for a normal street car with moderate HP, but they do start balking at the HP levels you plan for. Reinforce the attachment points of your front spring hangers and as Rob suggested above, gusset the spring perches so they don't wad up. There is a huge difference between Mopar spring perches and the Mickey Mouse perches you can buy at Speedway Motors. Good luck, and have fun with your build!

:steering:
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I do have an A body slip yoke tail housing, I would just have to get an A body tail shaft for it. I've never taken a manual transmission apart, or the gears off of the shafts before. Would an A body tail housing fit on a B body transmission?
 
I don't see why it wouldn't. I've never taken one apart either, but will give it a go soon, for my own 65 Barracuda. I do know that there are 2 different A body tail shafts. Early (66-67) ones use a 904 size slip yoke and later ones use the 727 size slip yoke. @Dan Brewer can tell you each and every part you'd need to swap it out, and can supply it to.
 
A little off subject but if you are planning subframe connectors, I am a proponent of MIG welding. If possible a 220 unit with gas shielding. Its the best 1000 bucks you ever spent. Yes you can get away with less, but get the best you can afford and learn the machine. You won't regret it. There are some real talented welders on here and you tube that will solve most of your questions.

Life is better welded together (T shirt?) :thumbsup:


$0.02
 
clementine said:
A little off subject but if you are planning subframe connectors, I am a proponent of MIG welding. If possible a 220 unit with gas shielding. Its the best 1000 bucks you ever spent. Yes you can get away with less, but get the best you can afford and learn the machine. You won't regret it. There are some real talented welders on here and you tube that will solve most of your questions.

Life is better welded together (T shirt?) :thumbsup:


$0.02
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I have a small cheap mig welder that I use for light home and sheet metal repairs. But I'm not a very good welder and wouldn't trust my welding where structure is concerned, especially where a lot of torque and horsepower is going to be applied. So, there is a fabrication shop not even a mile from my house that has professional welders to do the job. I could probably tack it into place, and then leave the welding up to them.
 
JDMopar said:
I don't see why it wouldn't. I've never taken one apart either, but will give it a go soon, for my own 65 Barracuda. I do know that there are 2 different A body tail shafts. Early (66-67) ones use a 904 size slip yoke and later ones use the 727 size slip yoke. @Dan Brewer can tell you each and every part you'd need to swap it out, and can supply it to.
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That being true, I defiantly have to check the numbers on that tail housing to see what year it came from. Considering I got it from the local swap meet for $20, I'd say it was a good deal.
 
Here are some pictures that show some potential problem areas. The A-body transmission mount holes were always in the same location regardless of year. B bodies have a more rearward mount in '64-9 and there is only one shifter mount location. This shifter mount is in line with the upper hoop of the torsion bar crossmember on an A-body so it can't be used. The shifter mount lugs are usually partially ground off to clear the crossmember. The '70-later dual shifter mount tailshaft housing is the one that is usually used when a B-body A833 is used in an A-body since the rear shifter mount location can be used. There are 2 sizes of flanges for ball & trunnion transmission. They were there when I was taking pictures so I included them.

IMG_3926.JPG


IMG_3927.JPG


IMG_3928.JPG
 
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