Which heads are best

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I found a stroker kit for my 340 block last night, all forged internally balanced with dish pistons, supposed to be 9.5 comp with 65cc heads. Could that be used in my car to build what I am wanting. something not too wild but a torque monster below 5500 rpm?
That would be spot on the money...no-muss, no-fuss. What kit is it, if I may ask?
 
Remember if you use W-2's you'll need the intake and headers for it...there the ONLY steel head i'd ever run but they're not cheap...
 
The kit I was looking at was from Mancini racing and here is what it says
340 - 408 CID FORGED CRANKSHAFT STROKER KIT
Balanced rotating assembly

Internally balanced

Dished Forged Diamond Pistons 9.5:1 with 65cc heads

Eagle 4340 forged crankshaft

Eagle H-Beam rods

Clevite Tri-Metal rod and main bearing set

Diamond file fit 1/16-1/16-3/16 Moly ring set
Price is $1950
I have a set of Headman Hustler W2 headers for an A body brand new with all the plates and gaskets. Intakes for W2's tend to be cheap because there is not that big a demand. Ive found Strip Dominators at swap meets for $60. I also have a Mopar Race tach drive electronic distributor in the garage and who knows what else, still digging through 40 years of crap out here
 
The kit I was looking at was from Mancini racing and here is what it says
340 - 408 CID FORGED CRANKSHAFT STROKER KIT
Balanced rotating assembly

Internally balanced

Dished Forged Diamond Pistons 9.5:1 with 65cc heads

Eagle 4340 forged crankshaft

Eagle H-Beam rods

Clevite Tri-Metal rod and main bearing set

Diamond file fit 1/16-1/16-3/16 Moly ring set
Price is $1950
I have a set of Headman Hustler W2 headers for an A body brand new with all the plates and gaskets. Intakes for W2's tend to be cheap because there is not that big a demand. Ive found Strip Dominators at swap meets for $60. I also have a Mopar Race tach drive electronic distributor in the garage and who knows what else, still digging through 40 years of crap out here


That's all good stuff there. I would absolutely have the balance job checked. They are never as close as I like them.

The other thing is that is a bit low on compression. Rather than deck the heads, do all the measurements and then stick the piston out of the hole a bit. That is standard operating procedure, but has been lost over the years, because all the Chevy guys use a zero deck, but it is wrong for small block chryslers. I run mine .054 out of the deck.
 
That's all good stuff there. I would absolutely have the balance job checked. They are never as close as I like them.

The other thing is that is a bit low on compression. Rather than deck the heads, do all the measurements and then stick the piston out of the hole a bit. That is standard operating procedure, but has been lost over the years, because all the Chevy guys use a zero deck, but it is wrong for small block chryslers. I run mine .054 out of the deck.

Why is running a zero deck slug height in a MoPar wrong?
 
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Remember if you use W-2's you'll need the intake and headers for it...there the ONLY steel head i'd ever run but they're not cheap...
And pricey rockers! Best to go with long valves while your at it.
Expensive? Yes.
Worth it performance wise over a stock head? Hell ya!
IMO, fully ported, one heck of a iron head.
 
The kit I was looking at was from Mancini racing and here is what it says
340 - 408 CID FORGED CRANKSHAFT STROKER KIT
Balanced rotating assembly

Internally balanced

Dished Forged Diamond Pistons 9.5:1 with 65cc heads

Eagle 4340 forged crankshaft

Eagle H-Beam rods

Clevite Tri-Metal rod and main bearing set

Diamond file fit 1/16-1/16-3/16 Moly ring set
Price is $1950
I have a set of Headman Hustler W2 headers for an A body brand new with all the plates and gaskets. Intakes for W2's tend to be cheap because there is not that big a demand. Ive found Strip Dominators at swap meets for $60. I also have a Mopar Race tach drive electronic distributor in the garage and who knows what else, still digging through 40 years of crap out here

I'm realing digging all the W2 parts and the bigger cam you have. For a street car, that is the direction I'd go in.
The other smaller cam is a daily driver easy enough for a cranky Grand Ma not to get upset about. Stock heads and intake type set up.
 
Why is running a zero deck slug height in a MoPar wrong?

I should have clarified that I was speaking about open chamber W2's. I posted several times that I pretty much detest the closed chamber designs (I would be in the minority here but I stand by it) so if you have open chamber heads and a zero deck you are talking .090 or so quench PLUS THE GASKET so in total roughly .130 quench. I'm not anal on quench like the Chevy guys but that is pissing away power. And , you could go from 9.5:1 to probably 10.5:1 and gain power on the same quality of fuel just closeIng up the quench.

That was my point. My first 340 in 1980 almost came to a fist fight because the prick doing my machine work wouldn't deck the block and put the piston .040 out of the hole. He was and still is too stupid to think outside the Chevy box. Because of that prick, I started doing my own engines, then machine work.

Yes, I hate that prick on several levels.
 
I should have clarified that I was speaking about open chamber W2's. I posted several times that I pretty much detest the closed chamber designs (I would be in the minority here but I stand by it) so if you have open chamber heads and a zero deck you are talking .090 or so quench PLUS THE GASKET so in total roughly .130 quench. I'm not anal on quench like the Chevy guys but that is pissing away power. And , you could go from 9.5:1 to probably 10.5:1 and gain power on the same quality of fuel just closeIng up the quench.

That was my point. My first 340 in 1980 almost came to a fist fight because the prick doing my machine work wouldn't deck the block and put the piston .040 out of the hole. He was and still is too stupid to think outside the Chevy box. Because of that prick, I started doing my own engines, then machine work.

Yes, I hate that prick on several levels.
It sounds to me that prick made you the man you are today...
 
It sounds to me that prick made you the man you are today...
And what seems like an angry one at that. *At least the way I read it, but thats text and not always what it seems to be.)

YR, OK, gotcha, I agree. IMO, I would rather run a dome, but, there are so many ways to skin a cat.
A flat top @ 0 deck and closed chambered heads is what you call a "Chevy" way of ding things?
 
My guess (and that's all I can really give because I don't know crap) going to be that An open chamber head with a above deck piston is going to have better flow numbers then a 0- deck with a flat head. I personally am about .010 above.
 
Ive read up on this from many various points of view, from lots of different people and looked at dyno results, track results and all I have to say is;

On the street, just build it and have fun. If your racing..... do your homework and build accordingly.
I have seen GREAT results from many different schools of thought and building technics. Nothing is in stone.
 
And when you're racing I assume you mean racing seriously for like points and money and stuff? I race with a bunch of snap-together parts that I thought would be cool and have a lots of fun. I'm learning a lot as I go of course.
Now I was officially out of this thread a long time ago, but since it's been a discussion more of opinion I guess everybody's got one and I do too LOL
 
Well J par, I think a serious answer from all that reply along with being honest and hopefully a been there and done that truthful reply would allways be the result of someone asking a question.
But bench racing, theory and some of the famous, my friends third wives ex-botfiends dog once.....
IMO, it's all good.

But YES! I meant and surley mean racing on a serious level. Really looking to ether/or/and pound down some power, race for points/money, just simply get'er done. An honest attempt to paste the competition. Or your friend/enemy. Low street useage if even at all.

I have managed some decently power engines with left over/junk yard/swap meet/extra chit laying around. And it was great for what it was. It's not like it was a horrible thing. A lot of fun is what it was as well as a bit of learning a long time ago. My favorite thing to do before computers was just to simply swap parts around and see how it acted. This is how you end up with 20+ carbs, 10+ intakes, 6-7-8 sets of heads in various states of OE to big valved and ported. Etc..... on down the whole car, in and out. And yes, dispite the net and who seys what, I look foward to doing it again right soon!
Why, because it is fun and you learn first hand.
 
I think my limited amount of space restrict me from being the holder that I would like to be. My wife heard me voice commanding this post and yelled out "you motor horder!" I just had another buddy text me that I race with who has far too many cars and text me a picture of a 68 dart that he just looked at. LOL he just wishes his wife was it was as enthusiastic as he is. LOL
 
Well, do you have parts ( :realcrazy:) under your bed or in your closet?

OH SNAP! :D I think I just found room in J pars house for parts! :lol:
(I just don't recomend parts between the mattress and box spring!:rofl:
 
And what seems like an angry one at that. *At least the way I read it, but thats text and not always what it seems to be.)

YR, OK, gotcha, I agree. IMO, I would rather run a dome, but, there are so many ways to skin a cat.
A flat top @ 0 deck and closed chambered heads is what you call a "Chevy" way of ding things?


You should try and have a conversation with any piston manufacturer about how to correctly do a Chrysler open chamber head piston. Back in the day, I ordered some custom BRC pistons with an .043/.043/.062 ring pack before it was considered a bracket ring package, and I wanted to run the deck of the piston .065 out of the hole. There was no email then so a bunch of it was done by fax and I made a combustion chamber mold so they could grasp what I wanted.

That was one of my better W2 packages but it was damn expensive. It was a true 15.8:1 deal with a 3.31 stroke and the bob weight was just under 1700 grams. I somewhere have one of those pistons left, and if some day I want to do another open chamber max effort deal, I will pull it out so I can send it to Gib-tech and have it done.

BTW, I was going to make my W5 stuff open chamber but just got sick of it and quit.
 
Well, do you have parts ( :realcrazy:) under your bed or in your closet?

OH SNAP! :D I think I just found room in J pars house for parts! :lol:
(I just don't recomend parts between the mattress and box spring!:rofl:
Wait a minute- I just remenbered the 41 Studebaker seats, door cards, and flatglass in the wifa's office/dressing room:realcrazy:
 
When I first got married some 25 years ago my wife moved into my house and started cleaning out all the cabinets while I was working one day and she calls me and says I set all that old crap that was in the kitchen cabinets out in front of the garage door. Then it hit me that I had a magnesium hemi crossram with carbs and a Max Wedge cross ram with carbs in the kitchen cabinets in addition to a few other choice items. I told her she better get out there and stand next to that stuff till I got there.
 
^^^ That is a riot..... and sounds so true LOL.

Good deal on the crank set..... the forged pistons are nice. For the 5k RPM range, my thought would be that the balance as shipped would probably be OK. I suppose you can ask Mancini if a balance report or any sort comes with it.
 
I had a convo with a piston manufacturer once. It lasted about 20 minutes. They seemed unwilling to make them even after I agreed to the price tag they stated.

It was for a forged domed set for a 3.58 in a 4.07 bore. Now, there available for a reasonable cost. 25 years ago, it seemed like a huge deal.
 
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