Why are 318's low HP and torque?

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318 shortblock good for about 400+hp and 6500rpm just use Arp rod bolts.
 
I'm just trying to let the engine breath better. What would you suggest over I heads in order for me to keep up the CR?
 
Chryslerkid said:
Alright. I am seriously considering tearing into my '87 318 block and rebuilding the entire engine in my garage. IF... I do this, I'm doing it right! So I am buying KB pistons, J heads, radical cam.... Will I need a different crankshaft? If so what are the cranks y'all use? I'm going to make some power out of this 318 while it's out of my car. This is the time to do it. What are your ideas guys. I am ready to order all the parts and send the block to the machine shop.
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With all the talk about 302 and magnum heads and you're goin back to talkin about J heads? I give up. I'm done.
 
If you just HAVE to spend money on heads...put bigger valves in the 302's, and of course, then you'll need new hardened seats.

StrokerScamp has a pretty good knowledge base. I'd listen if I were you.

J heads on a 318 is an old school wives tale.
Sounds good, but math literally doesn't add up.
 
Well I got a pair of J heads from my buddy already ported and rebuilt for free so what can I say? 302's are not as easy for me to find in my area. I'm building with what I have right now so It took me in a new direction. If you think that j heads are bad then I'll keep looking but for now this is what I have to work with.

You're saying that you'd rather go with stock 318 heads than j heads?
 
If your gonna now rebuild your engine and use KB167 and zero deck your block and use around 0.025" gasket and your 72ish cc J heads will give you 9:1 CR add a high lift 268 cam and a Eddy Airgap Rpm intake and 650 Holley you'll have 350hp.
 
Already pulled the block apart. I'm bringing it to the machine shop today. Once I get the shops specs I'll order my pistons and rebuild kit.
 
If he's havin to get heads for free, do you think he can swing almost 500 bucks for pistons? Then pay a machine shop to properly set up the necessary top ring gaps for them? No.

Look kid, we're trying to tell you the cheapest way. You're fightin us at every turn. J heads will lower compression on a 318 and the fact that they are ported will kill it even more. Save up some money and get some better heads. It's not like you gotta have this done tomorrow. Unless you fall into a pile of money and can suddenly afford some KB pistons, sell the J heads and buy what you need. The only way to get compression up on a stock pistoned 318 is to put a small chamber head on it. I don't understand why that's so difficult to get through to you. Compression = power and a stock 318 doesn't have much of either, but it can, if you'll just listen. Gettin J heads for free means you're listenin to the wrong people. If you want the simplest swap, sell the J heads and find some good, uncracked 302s. That will put you having an all LA engine and will be the easiest thing to learn on. The magnum stuff will work too, but it's more complex and requires custom pushrods which will drive the price up more. I know. I just bought some for 117 bucks. It's your motor. Don't let us tell you how to build it. You want to put J heads on it, go for it. But it's not our fault when your 318 won't pull a greasy string outta a cats ***.

273 said:
If your gonna now rebuild your engine and use KB167 and zero deck your block and use around 0.025" gasket and your 72ish cc J heads will give you 9:1 CR add a high lift 268 cam and a Eddy Airgap Rpm intake and 650 Holley you'll have 350hp.
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I think your letting this build spiral out of control you've said your on a budget and all you wanted was to burn some rubber and have fun around town like I said before all you need is 262 cam with intake and headers gets you 282hp don't worry about heads right now it's always an upgraded down the road. When I got my license 5.0l mustangs were the car they only had 215-225hp no torque and highway gear but were still fun little car, 282Hp and gears in a A Body will be a fast car but if you got the cash rebuild her with the KBs and
J heads.
 
Yeah just slap it together and run it or you'll never get anything built.
 
I slapped a slant six in my car without thinking it through and I'm really unhappy with it. I will take your advice and go back to plan A(stock 318 heads, intake, headers ect....). I'm all over the place because of that experience. I'm actually not fighting you guys, just myself and what I want to do with this car. Just afraid that I'll regret my build after it's all said and done.....again. And as you've all probably experienced... Once you are done with a project, you just want to go bigger after it's too late. Ill calm down and get the build done.
 
if youre anything like me, it doesnt matter how i build it, i always want more. follow the plan that SS is laying out for you, be happy with it, use it and enjoy it. while you are doing that , set the stage with another build on the side that you can really go nuts with , and drop it in when the time is right. you have nothing but time. plus you are going to learn a lot on the way.
 
If I were you, I would bide my time. Save your money and get some small chamber heads. You really WILL be happy if you do that. You can get an honest 300 HP with smart parts choices and it will be reliable as all hell. Then you can plan a 360 upgrade from there.
 
That's good to hear, the biggest problem when doing a car is where to draw the line the cost can add up in a hurry and when we budget things we just think of the big things like cam, heads etc... But little things that we need to get the job done we don't think of until we start putting it all getter and can cost more than the part we're trying to install or end up with a half *** job. A driving car is better than a car that sit in your yard year after year that one day will be fast. P.S. all this talk about 302 heads not that I don't think there a great swap but them and a thin gasket probably only make 10hp over what you got not the best dollars per Hp.
 
Yeah like with mine......I been holdin off on finishing my long block. Why? Because I couldn't decide if I wanted adjustable rockers or not. Last night, I said "SCREW IT", went out in the shop and finished up the long block with stock rockers. Adjustable rockers with studs and guide plates are expensive....and I REALLY wanted the Hugher rockers ........but they are REALLY expensive. So I drew the line. It's only a truck motor after all. I mean, I have my slant project, my Hemi project.....my big block project.....
 
i have a great little 67 318 that has not been messed with internally and is a great , sound little motor that will more than get out of its own way. i cruise it around and hot rod it from time to time and it is very respectable. in the meantime , i have another 360 amongst other projects that is getting the treatment on the side, and when the time comes, it will merely plug and play.
 
Ugh! I know you guys are right. Plus I have a running slant six car right now which makes me more prone to making this project long and drawn out. But I really do want this small block in my car ASAP! I'm going to get off my *** and get her done. FYI this is my only mopar, my only project car, my one and only a body. i am trying to get a lot out of this lil car in place of my dream of having many! Some day......
 
my duster was a six car, i bought a sweet little 67 318 / 727 for 400 bucks off CL and with less than 400 bucks and about 8 hours, pulled the six and had it running, just because i love V8s. this way i can have the V8 and pump my money into a 360 for it on the side. this was done on the cheap cheap and its still getn the job done. its not the fastest car on the block, but it sure is fun and kinda purty doing it. just another thought to consider :D
 

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Are driving this car now? If so start with the rear end and gears swap first it will make the leaning tower of power a little more fun to drive until get the 318 ready plus stock rear end won't last long behind the teen my 5th Ave lasted just over a month. You said you tore down the 318 already how far longblock? Shortblock? Fully disassembled?
 
Don't forget about wheel/tire, suspension and brake upgrades all should be done before the swap. It's fun to go fast but its nice to be able to stop when some idiot cuts in front of you when your over the posted speed. Play Safe
 
I've been looking for an 8.75 rear end during this whole process with no luck. I always find someone who says it's a complete rear end and then I get there and it's just a housing or just a posi. Furthermore I have front discs, new suspension, and a small block v8 frame already in the car.

I tore the block down to a long block, not too bad. All the accessories, intake manifold, valve covers, oil pan, water pump ect. are off of the engine now. However, I need to do that either way for my original build as well.

My engine is on my stand and I am cleaning it and painting it now. I'll post pics when it's nice and detailed. Thanks for setting me straight guys. Just needed a kick in the pants to keep me going!!!
 
What rear is in it now? 7 1/4?
 
Yep. 7.25 rear end right now. I'm still looking while I continue on with the build. Although I do recall someone on this forum saying that their 7.25 rear end has held up pretty well so far with his slant six to 318 conversion.
 
my 7 1/4 - 318 is working just fine, 2 years and running right down the road. this is regular normal everyday driving. i wouldnt expect it to live if i decided to really give it hell
 
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