Would you run these axles?

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AlaskaJeff

AlaskaJeff

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Take a look at the pictures. I filled in the sbp holes because the bbp holes were drilled too close, there was only 1/16” of flange material between the holes. Now I need to open the existing holes to accept a 1/2” stud. They are currently drilled for OEM 7/16” studs. Original stud and new stud included in pictures. Is the axle still viable? Would you run it on a street driven weekend cruiser? Here is a picture of the other axle before welding the holes. The two sets of holes are not as close together as this axle. But I think I'll still weld them up.

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Axles2.jpg
 
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Long as the flange ain't warped from weldin the holes up, yeah.
 
AlaskaJeff said:
THAT is an excellent suggestion! Thanks :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Here's my next one.
After you screw the studs in and tighten them up, tack weld them so they don't unscrew.
Also do not use the Allen head bolts, they will hit your brake parts.
 
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Jadaharabi said:
Here's my next one.
After you screw the studs in and tighten them up, tack weld them so they don't unscrew.
Also do not use the Allen head bolts, they will hit your brake parts.
Click to expand...
That was the only thing I was thinking about them, unscrewing.
 
I like the screw in studs. I didn't weld mine but did locktite on the threads about 6 to 8 threads from the base of the head.
Either tacking or red locktite works well.
Hard to see but it looks like you have the new holes knurled ?
 
Darter6 said:
I like the screw in studs. I didn't weld mine but did locktite on the threads about 6 to 8 threads from the base of the head.
Either tacking or red locktite works well.
Hard to see but it looks like you have the new holes knurled ?
Click to expand...
For sure RED loctite if I go with the screw in studs. The holes left in the pictures are 7/16" and had OEM studs already installed. That's where the knurl marks came from. I punched them out before the pictures.
So IF I go with the screw in studs, which I'm leaning that direction, should I get the 2" or 3" long ones? Will 3" be too long if I use the closed acorn lug nuts after it's all done?
 
AlaskaJeff said:
For sure RED loctite if I go with the screw in studs. The holes left in the pictures are 7/16" and had OEM studs already installed. That's where the knurl marks came from. I punched them out before the pictures.
So IF I go with the screw in studs, which I'm leaning that direction, should I get the 2" or 3" long ones? Will 3" be too long if I use the closed acorn lug nuts after it's all done?
Click to expand...
I had the same question when I replaced my studs. The only way to know would be to thread one of your acorn nuts on a stud and measure (obviously you want a bit of space left so you are actually tightening the wheel down and not bottoming out). You will need to measure the thickness of your wheel so that you know how much will be protruding. Plan on 1-1-1/2 times the diameter of the stud for thread engagement (the more the better). You may find you will have to trim a little off of them and if you do, be sure to not overheat them during any grinding process. Harbor freight has great deals on dial calipers. I would recommend the non-digital analog dial type because their digital ones (unless they improved them) do not turn themselves off and the battery will be dead in no time. Good luck
 
I had 3'' installed when I planed on racing the car. I did cut then down to fit closed end lug nuts. Strip days are over.
Sorry for the crappy photo.

IMG_0006.jpg
 
AlaskaJeff said:
THAT is an excellent suggestion! Thanks :thumbsup:
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....depending on how hard the axles are (difficult to tap)
IF you can tap them, that's a good suggestion.
I would just use the 7 /16. Or find 1/2 studs with the same size knurl. (but I have one car with 3" long press-ins and two with screw-in studs in GOOD axles, Strange, and Summers Bros)
Yes, I would run those axles, but I would mount a naked rim, and check for runout (with a drum in place.)
I have only broken 7/16 studs under power on one car, a 55 Chevy with a rat, and a 400 turbo that shifted MUCH too hard.
 
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33IMP said:
....depending on how hard the axles are (difficult to tap)
IF you can tap them, that's a good suggestion.
I would just use the 7 /16. Or find 1/2 studs with the same size knurl. (but I have one car with 3" long press-ins and two with screw-in studs in GOOD axles, Strange, and Summers Bros)
Yes, I would run those axles, but I would mount a naked rim, and check for runout (with a drum in place.)
I have only broken 7/16 studs under power on one car, a 55 Chevy with a rat, and a 400 turbo that shifted MUCH too hard.
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Will Roger's almost said. "I never met an axle I couldn't tap."
You will never find a 1/2 inch stud who's knurled end is the same size as a 7/16. Because to start with the 1/2 inch stud is a 1/16 inch bigger. Then you have the nurls stick out beyond that in order to grip the axle hole the threaded part had to go through.
I used 3 in and cut them off a 1/4 in past the lug nnu.Using open end lug of course, so tec could see I I had a fully threaded nut.
 
I’d run those with slicks on a glued track, of course I’d inspect them frequently. I believe your good to go if they don’t run out. I bought a car that was raced with drilled out for BBP without filling the SBP holes at 10’s with a 550 hp engine and thats just crazy dangerous. I would have just cut off the SBP studs flush and run it. Studs are hardened steel.
 
Is that the left or the right axle? My axles were done left and right, no need to weld the holes up. Because of rotation, only one hole, and you have to have that open, is compromised. Right? At least, that is how mine were done.
 
WELL, after research, reading thru all the comments, MORE research, and soul searching... :rofl: I have decided to stick with 7/16" press in studs. It's just easier all around, AND I'm still getting rid of the spacers. Which was my main objective.
Both axle's sbp holes have been welded up. And there will be no need for drilling out or tapping the flanges.
I opted for Moroso 2 7/8" studs with the same .480 knurl as OEM:
Amazon product ASIN B000CONYQ6 And open end lug nuts:
VMS 16 PIECE RACE LIGHT WEIGHT WHEEL RACING LUG NUTS 7/16 -20 BLUE OPEN END | eBay
If they prove to be cheap or not worthy I will look for others.
 
Quarter panels must be cheap for you car because there's not much meat around the studs. New axles are what 300 to 500 bucks, I wouldn't use them behind a /6.
 
Oldiron440 said:
Quarter panels must be cheap for you car because there's not much meat around the studs. New axles are what 300 to 500 bucks, I wouldn't use them behind a /6.
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Good thing it's not your car. :thumbsup: I am not going to be doing 4,000 RPM clutch dumps with slicks on the back........
 
I admire your frugality and modifying what you have. I would be all about not having to spend $300-500 for new axles. I would at a minimum tack weld the studs, as previously mentioned.
 
AlaskaJeff said:
WELL, after research, reading thru all the comments, MORE research, and soul searching... :rofl: I have decided to stick with 7/16" press in studs. It's just easier all around, AND I'm still getting rid of the spacers. Which was my main objective.
Both axle's sbp holes have been welded up. And there will be no need for drilling out or tapping the flanges.
I opted for Moroso 2 7/8" studs with the same .480 knurl as OEM:
Amazon product ASIN B000CONYQ6 And open end lug nuts:
VMS 16 PIECE RACE LIGHT WEIGHT WHEEL RACING LUG NUTS 7/16 -20 BLUE OPEN END | eBay
If they prove to be cheap or not worthy I will look for others.
Click to expand...
You do not want aluminum lug nuts.
 
AlaskaJeff said:
Good thing it's not your car. :thumbsup: I am not going to be doing 4,000 RPM clutch dumps with slicks on the back........
Click to expand...
Then go with 1/2" - 20 screw ins IMO. I'm thinking you'll twist off the 7/16".
Then you can worry about twisting the axle splines!

I believe these are 2" screw in.
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With the old Cragar wheels I needed open ends legs.
With the Weld I really need longer studs as 2" studs are flush with the wheel hub.
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